Fiberglass damage :(

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Use blue painters tape instead of mud. It will lay flat over all the cracks n crevices. Pop the part your making off of the ski/blue tape before the part fully cures becaust the blue masking tape comes off the back of the part easier. No need to make the bondrail perfect for the mold because your just covering it up anyways and all your doing is making the underside of the part nice which will be face down in glue anyways and unseen.

If it was mine i would grind out the cracks, make an epoxy paste with fiberglass shavings in it and fill all the parts on the bondrail and sand/finish . I would then reinforce from the inside .

If you were doing it the way I was suggesting, the section of damaged rail would be removed (from the screw hole to the crack behind it). It looks to me like the area is deformed.

If the mold is perfect or close to it, black gelcoat could be put down and then the replacement section laidup. All of the repair glass would be laidup from the underside of the bond rail. The finish of the top rail would be in gelcoat, so the mold quality matters to some degree. Just wet sand and buff.

It is just a bond rail, so I don't contest just laying up over the damage.
 
Any crack needs to have the end drilled. Even if it's not metal, the same rule applies to any crack. It WILL spread if you do not drill the end. Just because you glass over it and don't see it doesn't mean it doesn't.

Repairing from the outside won't do near as much structurally as going from.the inside. Just 2 latches of 12 oz staggered 2 inches over each other will be far stronger than stock.

For the outside just mix epoxy, cabosil, and milled fibers. This way your actually adding structure and not just cosmetic. It sands down just the same. The final layer on the outside I qould do pure epoxy with 30 percent extra hardener, and strictly cabosil. This will give you a hard abrasion resistant finish.

1500 is crazy. Find a rider near you that's model a ski and I'm sure they would do it for half that.
 
I'm pretty good with my hands and can figure most stuff out but glassing is a little beyond me. Anyone in South Jersey? Lol


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If you were doing it the way I was suggesting, the section of damaged rail would be removed (from the screw hole to the crack behind it). It looks to me like the area is deformed.

If the mold is perfect or close to it, black gelcoat could be put down and then the replacement section laidup. All of the repair glass would be laidup from the underside of the bond rail. The finish of the top rail would be in gelcoat, so the mold quality matters to some degree. Just wet sand and buff.

It is just a bond rail, so I don't contest just laying up over the damage.
Sorry , my bad , i thought you were just scabbing over the top. Like you i dont think anything is needed over the top.
 
$1,500... That's absurd. Get more estimates or get some help from these forums. This type of glass work isn't difficult. There are pretty good resources in the composite section on this site. Lots of people willing to help you out.


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I appreciate it guys, I will be getting more estimates and doing some more research on it. I honestly do not know a thing about gel coat and fiberglassing so I guess that is where I need to start. And for 1500$ I figured I could find a decent used 08+ hull for that price lol


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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
I appreciate it guys, I will be getting more estimates and doing some more research on it. I honestly do not know a thing about gel coat and fiberglassing so I guess that is where I need to start. And for 1500$ I figured I could find a decent used 08+ hull for that price lol


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Yes you do. Its exactly the same as paper mache. You learned it in the second grade. Its just news paper (fiberglass) and elmers glue (epoxy). You use a baloon (plug or mold) to make a pinata (part or repair). The only differences is that we use a lot more dangerous materials, care a lot more about glue/air content, and have ways to imrpive the quality with vacuums.

If you want this thread moved to the composites section, just ask.
 
Yes you do. Its exactly the same as paper mache. You learned it in the second grade. Its just news paper (fiberglass) and elmers glue (epoxy). You use a baloon (plug or mold) to make a pinata (part or repair). The only differences is that we use a lot more dangerous materials, care a lot more about glue/air content, and have ways to imrpive the quality with vacuums.

If you want this thread moved to the composites section, just ask.
Well when you put it that way it doesn't seem that bad. And sure id love some more suggestions


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Tyler Zane

Open Your Eyes
Id just ride it until winter, or forever...

If ya do fix it, forget all that mold making and stuff. Get the ol' grinder out and dig all the damaged part out and lay duct tape on the inside. Take some chop and high density filler and mix it up thick. Pack it in an lay wax paper over it. The wax paper will allow you to move, and mold it around with your hands until its near perfect. Let cure and peel the wax paper off and the duct tape from the inside. Just a little finish work and she's done. This method works great on smc hulls but is plenty strong for glass hulls.
 
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I have 2 shops looking at it tomorrow. If one of them can give me a price I find reasonable I'll let them do it. Otherwise I'll be making an attempt to do it myself. Again guys I really appreciate it.


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I pulled out the battery, tank, and water box today to get a better look
b247c51f0ff8784756dd63a7a231957d.jpg



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Tyler Zane

Open Your Eyes
Looks good, im sure it makes you feel better. I hope it last, he really should of gotten all the damaged glass out before doing any work. If mine i would of reinforced the inside too where it compromised the bond rail.
 
Looks good, im sure it makes you feel better. I hope it last, he really should of gotten all the damaged glass out before doing any work. If mine i would of reinforced the inside too where it compromised the bond rail.
I'm going to grind away some of the loose stuff on in inside myself and add some glass myself. But At least that part looks good again.


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After sanding down the inside and removing the loose glass I noticed a good amount of dust made it to the outside of the hull through the crack. It's right at the top where it seems to the top deck. Not much area for glass to stick to so I'm not to sure where to go next. A Tigercraft hull is looking pretty sweet right now lol


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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
After sanding down the inside and removing the loose glass I noticed a good amount of dust made it to the outside of the hull through the crack. It's right at the top where it seems to the top deck. Not much area for glass to stick to so I'm not to sure where to go next. A Tigercraft hull is looking pretty sweet right now lol


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Fill the bond line with a putty made from microspheres and epoxy, then overlap that with a fabric repair connecting the top deck to the bottom deck.
 
Fill the bond line with a putty made from microspheres and epoxy, then overlap that with a fabric repair connecting the top deck to the bottom deck.
Should I scrape out the green seam sealer the factory uses?


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