First time build - FX-1

[makejetskiinggreatagain]

I pretty much did this same thing for the wife's ski.
Totally defoamed and reinforced. Couple layers in the gun whales for good measure. Stock pump didn't want the hassle.
I wish I would have widened the tray is all. Turned out pretty good.

I'm thinking about working some extra overtime so that i can get the rickter adjustable footholds. I think with those installed i might get a little wider of a stance than i would with stock tray and footholds??? i dunno. Not totally sure but it kind of looks like it from the pics. I figure if i dont get adjustable holds i run the risk of installing holds in the wrong place and not being happy with them lol. at least with the rickter ones i will have a little bit of room to move them if i want.

 

[Joker]

I would +2 on the adjustable.

 

[VXSXH20]

@kcmasterpiece

Ken could chime in on this as he has on the other site about the tray being a wide open dance floor with a fixed hold on the rear like a RRP or B.O.B style. ill try to dig up a pic to get you creative juices flowing..



^^This pic was the first go around with the tray^^ The rest of the pics are newer version 2.06335978 who da faq knows...

 

[VXSXH20]

Hey KC...No homo stalker over here.. I have used your tray pics as reference in my fx1 tray dilemma as well. Carry on Ken, we all sit back and await your skunkworks fx1 hack lab over on pwctoday. keep us informed brotha!

 

[kcmasterpiece]

Sorry for the wait. I was bored one day and decided to peek over in the fx-1 sections and see what was going on. I havent been on any forum for quite some time.

No problem VX, use whatever pics you like. The most recent tray in the blue ski is the last pic. It's full width with a front foothold and an adjustable rear foothold.

CarterB is making both front and rear footholds now. The rear ones being adjustable.

here's my latest hack job. I cut the bulkhead this time so i dont have those funky corners in the tray. I just like simple trays.

 

[kcmasterpiece]

 

[makejetskiinggreatagain]

Flipped it over to pull the pump and found this 12" crack... What is the best way to repair it while maintaining the geometry of that chine?


You can see where it has stressed the layer in the engine compartment (the light streak)

 

[Joker]

3 pieces of 1208 steadily getting larger to encompass the piece below it. And thickened epoxy with microballoons on the outside to fill in the crack. Don't forget to drill holes at the end of the cracks so it doesn't become larger

 

[makejetskiinggreatagain]

Unfortunately there are lots of smaller cracks branching off I that one larger one... Do I drill a bunch of holes at the end if each crack and fill them in or cut out the whole damn thing? This repair just became the most stressful part of this project for me.

 

[Joker]

Can you draw on your picture where all the small ones are

 

[makejetskiinggreatagain]

Another issue if you look hard you can kind of see in the pic that one layer is separating from the other so underneath the grey layer is more damage. I cant even see the full extent of what the damage is. If i used filler would it help to stabalize that separation and then I could reinforce it like you described before?

 

[Joker]

I would sand it all down to see the full extent of what's under the paint and I would chip away the poop pieces of glass. If you can cut off the portion where it is delaminating while leaving all of the other glass intact that would probably be the best.

EDIT: just cut the delaminating pieces dont cut a hole. Sorry if that wasnt clear.

 

[VXSXH20]

I would sand it all down to see the full extent of what's under the paint and I would chip away the poop pieces of glass. If you can cut off the portion where it is delaminating while leaving all of the other glass intact that would probably be the best.

EDIT: just cut the delaminating pieces dont cut a hole. Sorry if that wasnt clear.

Grind down the damaged areas, it may become a little thin as far as what is left intact. not to worry you can build it back up with glass and some mixed cabosil/peanut butter like resin. as stated before. grind slightly past where the cracks end and you can drill a small hole at the ends of the cracks. Then once is prepped and clean. you can start laying some glass down. It can be whatever you choose, but make sure its structural and not just resin. Chop mat builds up quickly or milled fibers in mixed resin can be skimmed over area then lay some wet pieces of glass tape ( strips ) when it kicks off and cures. it can be ground down with a flap wheel or similar. It will be stronger than originally built. if you choose to reinforce the bilge under the motor mounts and inside the hull. that will make it very strong and rest assured it can take a beating.

 

[makejetskiinggreatagain]

Thanks guys. I'm hoping the wife doesn't have anything planned for us after I get off so I can start working on fixing that tonight. Still waiting on the fiberglass from UScomposites but it should be here in a couple days. I'd like to have the whole ski prepped for it by the time it comes in.

 

[VXSXH20]

Pretty Vague. But. you get the idea.. grind it down. run some glass strips down the length of the large long crack in your case.. then make up the thickened resin that wont sag or run ( peanut butter consistency ) then after drying you can sand it down to match the chines and rest of hull shape

 

[makejetskiinggreatagain]

How crazy do I have to get with grinding this excess green glue off the floor of the engine compartment? I'm having a tough time with the grinder. It takes off too much material too fast. Is there a better way to do it?

You can see in the pic I already nicked the engine mount. Should I jut lay the glass around all these glued in inserts?

 

[makejetskiinggreatagain]

Also the grinder won't fit in the nose to hit those contours. It's just too damn big. Should I borrow a dremel with cutoff wheels or something?

 

[Joker]

What kind of grinder are you us8ng

 

[jackmarcus]

If its taking it off to fast I'd use a dremel with a grinder and put it on one of the lower speed settings. For the nose I'd do the dremel with the cutting wheel.

 

[jetx]

90 degree angle rotary tool for an air compressor works amazing with grinding discs for tight areas and where control is needed