First time build - FX-1

Thanks guys. I'll borrow a dremel this week and get all the stuff in the tight places. Got a little bit of it in the nose with the grinder I have. Decided to sand the whole outside of the ski for now and sanded the whole engine compartment except for at the firewall. I don't think I'm going to reinforce that part. Still tryin to save on weight where I can.

Are you guys laying glass over all of those plastic inserts or just around them?

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just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
Great work on the glue, it's nasty when airborne.

On my FX1 I went over all of them mostly for looks. I also filled in the bondline so the sides would be smooth.

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just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
I sanded a lot, then more, then even more.... Did use filler as the final step (cabosil + epoxy).... And more sanding
 
Finally had some time to work on it last night. Got everything sanded and decided to give up grinding out the excess glue on the plastic inserts. Im just going to reinforce around them. Im just trying to get this thing back on the water ASAP at this point. So now tonight I have an hour or so to work on it so I'm going to clean it up real good. My plan is to pressure wash it, let it dry, wipe it all down with acetone, and then use a tack cloth. Then hopefully find some time this weekend to lay the glass. A guy at work mentioned that acetone might be overkill and might break down the epoxy from the original fiberglass. What do you guys think?
 
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VXSXH20

Sionis Industries
Location
Mid-Atlantic
the old glass is dried out and acetone is not going to hurt anything. you can go with a paint thinner or aerosol prep spray or similar. but a key step is to have a clean surface for the new epoxy resin to stick to. and the acetone will evaporate anyway. just let it breathe a few minutes and then move forward.

-Man if you are in there and this is the time.. keep up the prep on the bed plates.. then you can glass over them at least over the corners up to the motor mount bases.. this way you know its solid. call it one and done. don't have to go back later if you fail a few flops and the engine is laying in your hood if the old glue ever decides to separate.. it has happened
 
FML. I'm so over sanding and grinding lol. I've done enough grinding to lay glass over 80% of the bed plates. I might just put as much glass on there as I can. You're right, but I cant bring myself to try and grind with that dremel any more lol. I'll reevaluate when I get home tonight.
 
I would finish the grinding and lay the glass so it looks the best, you'd hate to give up then lay the glass and have it look like poop. Also acetone does no damage to the original glass I used it all over my ski with no issues, its what I would recommend you to use
 
You guys are right. I decided to take your advice and finish off the prep on the engine and battery mounts. BTW a wood chisel works awesome! wish I would have tried that yesterday. Im still leaving the mount under the gas tank. I dont have the heart to attempt to remove all of that glue there. Thanks for talking me into finishing the engine mount area. I'll be much happier in the end.
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
You guys are right. I decided to take your advice and finish off the prep on the engine and battery mounts. BTW a wood chisel works awesome! wish I would have tried that yesterday. Im still leaving the mount under the gas tank. I dont have the heart to attempt to remove all of that glue there. Thanks for talking me into finishing the engine mount area. I'll be much happier in the end.
I shoulda told you that.. I used a wood chisel and a hammer. Worked awesome for the bigger parts. Grinding/scraping absolutely ever bit of glue out of a square nose hood after removing the liner? LOL, worst few hours of my life.
 
Nice build Brandon! Yes, heat + chisel and hammer works the best on that green goop/glue. When it reaches a certain temp it loses adhesion and just kind of crumbles with some solid whacks. If you need any glass or fillers or other composite stuff, let me know. Happy to cut you off some pieces of fabric if you need it.

Also, love the shirt. Soft and fits great.
 
Nice build Brandon! Yes, heat + chisel and hammer works the best on that green goop/glue. When it reaches a certain temp it loses adhesion and just kind of crumbles with some solid whacks. If you need any glass or fillers or other composite stuff, let me know. Happy to cut you off some pieces of fabric if you need it.

Also, love the shirt. Soft and fits great.
thanks for the offer Nate! I actually have a box full of crap from US composites sitting in my garage. If I run out I'll definitely let you know. at this point I'm just waiting to get some time and for the weather to start cooperating here so that i can start laying some glass. They are calling for snow tomorrow....FML. Because of the holiday I'm not sure I'll even get to it until next week.

Im glad you love the shirt. I hope it treats you well! again, I seriously appreciate your support!
 
Off topic but needs to be asked. Are any of your tees regular 100% non ring spun cotton
Ask anything you would like. As far as your question, the answer is NO WAY. If they werent ringspun they would be of lesser quality lol. Are you not a fan of the ring spun cotton? I guess some might not like it because the tees are typically thinner, but being a predominantly summer brand I dont see that as an issue. Also, contrary to popular belief, thicker shirts are not necessarily more durable. If the fibers arent ringspun then they are not as tightly woven. They also wouldnt be as consistently woven. That results in more variation in fit over time, more chance of uneven wear, which would lead most customers to be dissatisfied.

edit: Im not sure if maybe you were asking this i do offer a shirt (the unbranded tee) that is 65% polyester and 35% cotton, but that cotton is also ringspun. Its an amazingly soft tee. the polyester really enhances the feel.
 
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