Glassing in flange nuts for mounting?

So I have these brackets I wanted to use for hose and wire anchors on the inside of my hull.. I was thinking I would drill more holes in the flange nuts for grip. Knock holes in a layer of CF and biax with a metal punch for a nice clean hole and glass them to the side of the hull carbon first then a layer of biax. I was also going to dowel at least 2 of the holes with some carbon rod in case they tried to spin don't know if that part is overkill?

Then I was just going to run bolts through the bracket with a rubber grommet between the bracket & glassed in flange nut for a wider base to sit on.

I was also going to do This for a metal plate to hold my water injection solinoids.

Any advice on if this will work fine or changes to my method would be greatly appreciated this was the most expensive jetski related purchase I ever made so I don't want to botch this hull up.
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Location
Uk
We use big head mounts over here that look the same just with more holes in.

I stick them on with methacrylate then put a couple of discs of CF/glass over the top to make it look pretty and add a bit more strength.

In my old xfs the battery tray and fuel tank was held in with four mounts each just using methacrylate and never came out and that hull did some big flops. Amazing stuff.
 

Christian_83

Xscream
Location
Denmark
2x methacrylate glue. 1 or 2 layers of glass or carbonfiber would merely be for optics :)
Prep surface and the insert, even though most methacrylate adhesives claim it can be used with out prep.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
So I have these brackets I wanted to use for hose and wire anchors on the inside of my hull.. I was thinking I would drill more holes in the flange nuts for grip. Knock holes in a layer of CF and biax with a metal punch for a nice clean hole and glass them to the side of the hull carbon first then a layer of biax. I was also going to dowel at least 2 of the holes with some carbon rod in case they tried to spin don't know if that part is overkill?

Then I was just going to run bolts through the bracket with a rubber grommet between the bracket & glassed in flange nut for a wider base to sit on.

I was also going to do This for a metal plate to hold my water injection solinoids.

Any advice on if this will work fine or changes to my method would be greatly appreciated this was the most expensive jetski related purchase I ever made so I don't want to botch this hull up.
949bdf21200cc8f0ebbb76c1ba69d6f3.jpg

Are those metric? I have mostly just seen standard nuts in stainless.

Its worth the extra money to buy metric UFOs from @JetManiac . Its not worth a few bucks to end up with two different thread standards.

But yes, you candrill holes. Probably going todestroy a few bits. You can also get barbed tee nuts. If the barbs wont be too high, and you can filed the bsrbs down some.

I used barbed sae tees before jetmanic offered ufos. I wouldnt use them again unless i needed a poopload of thread surface.
 
You guys think this industrial epoxy is a methacrylate ?

What's the most convenient way or place to purchase methacrylate glues?
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LOL, I am a Simpson Strong-Tie distributor. Trust me, SET XP will not work on composite or fiberglass. If you want to stick a piece of rebar to concrete, great, but anything else is useless. I use West Marine G-Flex and then run a couple layers of glass or carbon.
 
I think you mean methacrylate? They work great for bonding, just make sure to read the TDS to ensure it will work with your application. There are a lot of variations of methacrylate adhesives.
SEM is a brand of products they have a ton of stuff including a bunch of panel bonding adhesives.
 
I understand that, I was trying to look up 'methylclitrate' that you referred to but there is no such thing so I thought you maybe made a spelling error?
Yea I spell everything wrong lol

I drilled the disks up on the drill press tonight surprisingly all with the same drill bit. These are pretty small they will be the mounts for some aluminum spark plug wire separators I plan on using for my fuel lines and start/stop bilge switch routing and possibly water lines on the other side of the hull.

trying to get back to this ski and away from the daughters 440 for a while. I paid for a chamber in October I need to get it down to TnT so it can be built.

I don't know what types you guys are having good results with does this look like it will work for my aplication? none of this should be under much stress.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071...s+adhesive&dpPl=1&dpID=51mUj-qPB4L&ref=plSrch
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