Help Now Sank Ski Hours Ago

[shepster]

If it was at our place and if four stroke outboards are anything to go by, i would recomend you need to get it striped and cleaned, re oiled and either stored untill you can afford to reasemble it or get it back together and use it. The cost of new electrics normally write an outboard off, guess it depends how far you want to go with it!!
Just don't hang around or it wont be worth anything.

 

[WaveDemon]

even if you do get it running it will most likely not last. a few do but the issue is there are parts of the drivetrain that don't get lubed when running - mainly the valvestems. this is where they seize up on most 4 strokes. one seizes even slightly and when the piston comes up it hits and bends the valve and now you are done. imagine if more than a few valves stick. backfires can happen and explode out the intake.

It is most definitely not a 2 stroke! you may as well start tearing it down now...

unfortunately tom probably has the best advise on this. He's seen more sunk 4-strokes (with cheap owners) than anyone on here.

 

[the only couch rider]

i've had one roll over on mine.....5 oil changes later it was fine.... gotta love going through 5 gallons of oil in a matter of an hour....

 

[Matt_E]

gotta love going through 5 gallons of oil in a matter of an hour....

Sounds like my 63 Chevy Pickup.

 

[QuickMick]

even if you do get it running it will most likely not last. a few do but the issue is there are parts of the drivetrain that don't get lubed when running - mainly the valvestems. this is where they seize up on most 4 strokes. one seizes even slightly and when the piston comes up it hits and bends the valve and now you are done. imagine if more than a few valves stick. backfires can happen and explode out the intake.

It is most definitely not a 2 stroke! you may as well start tearing it down now...

Valvestems are part of the drivetrain??

I have never tore into a honda pwc motor but it being a 4 stroke I thought the oil pump would get oil up to the valves....

 

[the only couch rider]

your right. yanked off a line leading from the turbo down near the bottom of the hull. gallons of water. looks like syphen will take all night to get the rest of the oil. i guess i will be planning on getting all the old oil out, putting fresh oil in, trying to get to turn over, then another oil change after i atleast know it will run. Any comments, suggestions???

a syphon should take at most 10-15 minutes to get the oil out all night....

if you haven't got all the water out your pretty much f'd....... and you don't need to disconnect the line from the turbo..... when the motor coils all the oil should drain back into the motor from the turbo..... you need to use a fluid transfer system to suck all the oil out of the crank case... as i said before your gonna need to do this multiple times to get the water out.

and i doubt you had gallons of water in your oil system....

 

[the only couch rider]

Valvestems are part of the drivetrain??

I have never tore into a honda pwc motor but it being a 4 stroke I thought the oil pump would get oil up to the valves....

thinking the samething.... even if he ment valve train it would still get lubed from the oiling system

 

[Cannibal]

The stems on a 4 stroke engine really don't get much lube at all. Yes, the valve train gets lubed, but everything below the valve seal is just bare metal. The only lube it really gets is whatever get past the valve seal. If a little rust starts on the valve stem, it could hang a valve pretty easy. Getting it running and the fogging oil should help that out though. Like I said, he really needs to get this thing up to operating temp for a good long time.

 

[QuickMick]

The stems on a 4 stroke engine really don't get much lube at all. Yes, the valve train gets lubed, but everything below the valve seal is just bare metal. The only lube it really gets is whatever get past the valve seal. If a little rust starts on the valve stem, it could hang a valve pretty easy. Getting it running and the fogging oil should help that out though. Like I said, he really needs to get this thing up to operating temp for a good long time.

ok along with everyone's good ideas, look and see if there is some inspection plug/cap/ect on the valve cover/s you can remove and spray the heck out of the top of the valves with some fogging oil.

Ide say pretty much start oiling everything multiple times.

 

[JDiz]

Thanks all for the advise. I think ive got a good start. Today after pulling the original oil out, i put fresh oil in. took a little bit to get started (mainly a jump) but it was def. rough at first. now after the third oil change it still has that nasty chocolate milky look. Not really improving. between each change ill crank it up and get it mixed in. only problem is that i cant get it to keep running. it shuts off no matter what the rpm. ive got to figure out if this is a smart override kill since the oil light and beep go crazy. i havent given it too much tought cause i know there isnt as much oil or not leveled out in the system. now that i think about it. does anyone know if it should shut off from low oil? i thought it only limited your rpms.
other things i have done.
the gallons of water were in the air intake/turbo. that should be empty now.
i also fogged the hell out of top of engine. forgot what it is called. someone said it above. hose disconnect that split to each of the four.
electrical system seems to be working perfectly.


i guess i need to find out why it just cuts off. ???

 

[JDiz]

and yes. last night i was using the suck hard and pull out quick technique. (learned that from my girlfriend) on a hose. i got a pump siphon now. its much quicker and i dont have to swallow.

 

[the only couch rider]

Thanks all for the advise. I think ive got a good start. Today after pulling the original oil out, i put fresh oil in. took a little bit to get started (mainly a jump) but it was def. rough at first. now after the third oil change it still has that nasty chocolate milky look. Not really improving. between each change ill crank it up and get it mixed in. only problem is that i cant get it to keep running. it shuts off no matter what the rpm. ive got to figure out if this is a smart override kill since the oil light and beep go crazy. i havent given it too much tought cause i know there isnt as much oil or not leveled out in the system. now that i think about it. does anyone know if it should shut off from low oil? i thought it only limited your rpms.
other things i have done.
the gallons of water were in the air intake/turbo. that should be empty now.
i also fogged the hell out of top of engine. forgot what it is called. someone said it above. hose disconnect that split to each of the four.
electrical system seems to be working perfectly.


i guess i need to find out why it just cuts off. ???

you need to keep changing the oil and not worrying about why it's cutting out...... the milky brown is not good.....

you should just take this thing to the dealer..... if you don't know what spark plug boots/caps are called

 

[the only couch rider]

and yes. last night i was using the suck hard and pull out quick technique. (learned that from my girlfriend) on a hose. i got a pump siphon now. its much quicker and i dont have to swallow.

quite possibly the gayest statement ever made on this site...... :djsmilie:

 

[tightithrash]

and yes. last night i was using the suck hard and pull out quick technique. (learned that from my girlfriend) on a hose. i got a pump siphon now. its much quicker and i dont have to swallow.

quite possibly the gayest statement ever made on this site...... :djsmilie:

no poop............wow, that was it.......#1

 

[JDiz]

ok answered my own question. it does shut off if the oil light is blinking. Now why is the alarm going off? would these things know if it had bad oil in them? no one would have a owners guide would they. i dont think its the level. that is easy to fix.

making progress though. did have the hose running through it at idle for a solid five minutes. all levels of rpm's too. no just got to get this oil sensor to shut up so i can run it hard on the water. thoughts

 

[JDiz]

i know what they are. thats not it though. i wish i had a camera. and yes i should take it to a dealer, but im too close on my own to getting it run. that will get me a sale if nothing else then maybe that tricked blaster down the street for sale.

you need to keep changing the oil and not worrying about why it's cutting out...... the milky brown is not good.....

you should just take this thing to the dealer..... if you don't know what spark plug boots/caps are called

 

[Cannibal]

Good chance your oil level sensor is plugged up with milky oil. Don't know if this is a pressure switch or a level switch. If pressure, your oil pump may not be putting out the required pressure to kill the alarm. In which case, the only way to solve it, keep changing the oil.

 

[Matt_E]

that will get me a sale if nothing else

Wait, you're selling it?

 

[JDiz]

oil change number 4. still milky. no i dont wnat to sell it. its been perfect for so many years. but you guys are scaring the hell out of me.

 

[rasper99]

How many of those oil changes were using a pump siphon to remove the oil? The mouth suck siphon oil changes probably didn't do a good job of removing as much water. Maybe you shouldn't count them again the 4 changes.