How can i get this bpipe set screw out?

x-jetter

x-jetter

Location
Clarklake, Michigan
Well i realized today that my bottom screw in my bpipe is open all the way, allowing a ton of water in, while the middle and top screws are completely closed. i'm trying to get this bottom screw out, but it's completely ********ed. it's already been drilled out once, and this screw was put in before i got the pipe. i think it's made of diamonds or something, because i can not get a drill to penetrate it. i even tried a drill press and it bent the drill bit! then i even tried a DIAMOND tipped drillbit, and it still wouldn't penetrate the metal. what the hell do i do next? since it's the bottom one, i can see the hole on the inside of the pipe. anyone know if i could just jb weld that hole, since i plan on closing it all the way anyways? i don't have the slightest clue what else to try.
 
x-jetter

x-jetter

Location
Clarklake, Michigan
yea that's how i got the top screw out, but with the bottom one, i torched the sucker for so long the screw started to turn red. the biggest problem is that the screw is so badly mangled (and flush to the surface) that there is no hope of removing it. the only option is to drill, which has been unsuccessful also.
 
N

njfl

X-H2
I would try a new, plain High-Speed Steel bit. Not a cheap one, but one that has "HS" or "HSS" on the shank. Sometimes the coated ones are very weak after the hard coating is worn/chipped/removed.
 
S

superdude

X
Location
Ft.Worth,TX
If you can, jb weld something in the end of the screw so you can get some leverage on it. The idea on heating the pipe is not to heat the screw, but the pipe its self so the aluminum will expand.
 
crammit442

crammit442

makin' legs
Location
here
x-jetter said:
ok i'll try that high speed bit. the ones i have are coated with some sort of gold stuff.
Click to expand...


Use a NEW bit and use LOW rpms. Lots of cutting fluid. The gold bits are TiN. Titanium Nitride coated. VERY good coating. Makes bits last 5-6 times longer than HSS.

Charles
 
x-jetter

x-jetter

Location
Clarklake, Michigan
crammit442 said:
Use a NEW bit and use LOW rpms. Lots of cutting fluid. The gold bits are TiN. Titanium Nitride coated. VERY good coating. Makes bits last 5-6 times longer than HSS.

Charles
Click to expand...

thats right, thats what these are. i couldn't remember the name of it but yea they're titanium nitride. i'd like to send it to paul but it's still rideable so i don't want to lose any ride time while the weather's so nice!
 
JimTMich

JimTMich

SXi Pro and RN SJ
Location
at the gym
Or, since it's the bottom screw, you can see the hole from inside the pipe, just clean it up and put some jb weld on it.....I can't believe I just said that.

$190 and a call to FP and your problem is solved...

Machine shop could get it out if anyone could.
 
keefer

keefer

T1
Location
Tennessee
Yup, I recently bought the oversized screws from Pardaddy and I had to mount that frucker up in the drill press and use the cobalt bit to drill it out. It was no problem once you get the thing aligned in the press so it will cut straight. Be careful not to drill too far or else you will have big hole all the way through. Go slow and you will be ok.
 
Lucifer

Lucifer

Jet Junkie
Location
Croydon PA
I run into this a lot in my line of work.....
I use left handed drill bits and extractors.
If you're breaking bits, you are putting too much pressure on them.
If a bit bends, it's lost it's "temper" because it was overheated.
The adjuster screws are stainless steel, they are very tough. Use a good quality bit designed for hard metals. ( I like Bosch Titanium for most applications).
Center punch the broken screw shaft before you drill.
Use oil to lubricate the bit.
Take your time, let the tool do the work.
Good Luck
.
 
Lucifer

Lucifer

Jet Junkie
Location
Croydon PA
...almost forgot....
I JB welded the pipe on my JS300 a year ago.
It's still holding.....
 
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