High Speed Industries
Your one stop shop for quality parts @highspeedind
- Location
- Lake Havasu City, AZ
Ok so before I start I'm sure some people will not like my method of building my pump. If you don't like it start your own thread. I build my pump this way because the first time I built it I used a press and it damaged the bearings. I do know how to how to use a press and how to press in bearings correctly. The tolerances are pretty tight and since its stainless on stainless it takes quite a bit of force to get the bearings all the way in.
Oh and as a reference I used sealed nachi bearings so I don't have to worry about grease. The bearing number is 6205 and you can get them on eBay. For the seals I just used oem Yamaha seals.
Now I'll explain how I put my pump together BY HAND. First off I didn't use any special tools.
I used a shot light, vice, lazer temp gun, welding gloves, some sockets, my kitchen freezer, and a hammer. Ok so the first thing to explain is that metal expands when it is heated and contracts when it is cooled. This is how I overcome all of the tight tolerances. So my first step was to install pump seals, and then heat up my pump housing. For heating I simply just place the housing on the shop light. Make sure to set the housing SEAL SIDE UP so you don't end up cooking the seals! I heated the housing till the top of it was 200* the bottom was much hotter because it was resting on the light. While the housing was heating up I placed my bearing in the freezer.
Once everything was heated and cooled I installed the front bearing. To do this I just set the hot housing on my table seal side down and the I just dropped the bearing in. Right away it went all the way down to the bottom with no force. But just to make sure it was seated I used a socked with an extension and a hammer and I lightly tapped the bearing on the OUTER race to make sure it was seated all the way.
Then I let everything cool down and reach the same temp. Once everything cooled the bearing was snug inside the housing just like it would be if you pressed it in there.
The next step was to cool off my driveshaft. I just put it in the freezer. If you don't have a big freezer you can also use a bucket of ice water.
While the driveshaft was cooling I heated up my other bearing on the shop light. Be careful not to get the bearing too hot because you can melt the seals. Once everything was hot and cold i put the rear bearing on the driveshaft. It dropped all the way on with no force.
To make sure the bearing was seated all the way I used a socket and hammer so I could lightly tap the INNER race of the bearing.
After I installed the bearing it went back in the freezer.
Next step is to once again heat the housing with the seal side up and freeze the driveshaft with the rear bearing installed. I heated the housing to the same 200* as I did the first time. I measured at the snout where the seals go. This time both the housing and the front bearing were getting heated. Once everything was hot and cold I put the housing in my vice with the seal side DOWN and I just slid the cold driveshaft into place. Once it was installed I lightly tapped the driveshaft with the hammer and then I lightly tapped the outer race of the rear bearing to make sure they were both seated.
The heating and cooling worked so well for me that the rear bearing could actually spin in the housing because it was so loose. Once everything reaches the same temp it was all nice and snug like it should be. Then all you need to so is install your pump cone and you are ready to go.
I hope this helps some people out.
Oh and as a reference I used sealed nachi bearings so I don't have to worry about grease. The bearing number is 6205 and you can get them on eBay. For the seals I just used oem Yamaha seals.
Now I'll explain how I put my pump together BY HAND. First off I didn't use any special tools.
Once everything was heated and cooled I installed the front bearing. To do this I just set the hot housing on my table seal side down and the I just dropped the bearing in. Right away it went all the way down to the bottom with no force. But just to make sure it was seated I used a socked with an extension and a hammer and I lightly tapped the bearing on the OUTER race to make sure it was seated all the way.
The next step was to cool off my driveshaft. I just put it in the freezer. If you don't have a big freezer you can also use a bucket of ice water.
While the driveshaft was cooling I heated up my other bearing on the shop light. Be careful not to get the bearing too hot because you can melt the seals. Once everything was hot and cold i put the rear bearing on the driveshaft. It dropped all the way on with no force.
To make sure the bearing was seated all the way I used a socket and hammer so I could lightly tap the INNER race of the bearing.
After I installed the bearing it went back in the freezer.
Next step is to once again heat the housing with the seal side up and freeze the driveshaft with the rear bearing installed. I heated the housing to the same 200* as I did the first time. I measured at the snout where the seals go. This time both the housing and the front bearing were getting heated. Once everything was hot and cold I put the housing in my vice with the seal side DOWN and I just slid the cold driveshaft into place. Once it was installed I lightly tapped the driveshaft with the hammer and then I lightly tapped the outer race of the rear bearing to make sure they were both seated.
The heating and cooling worked so well for me that the rear bearing could actually spin in the housing because it was so loose. Once everything reaches the same temp it was all nice and snug like it should be. Then all you need to so is install your pump cone and you are ready to go.
I hope this helps some people out.
