How to rocker/big pump tunnel(155) your ski. A triple WB1 build thread

Location
orlando
EPIC build thread! Simple and to the point with good info.
This build is something to be proud of for sure! Jason nailed it and I was over the moon how this thing rode. The extra weight from the motor is dead on perfect up font. I am building myself a triple rocker blaster just bc of this ski!
Cant wait to share some waves with this fool :p
 
Any chance you can fix your photobucket account or upload the pictures directly to here?

This past March I picked up a 701 WB1, and a Rockered Front/Rear WB1, and this past week got a 1100 WB1.... Now I'm considering getting a 1100/1200 for the Rockered Ski and would love to see your assembly.
 
So at this point I was certain of a few things...I wanted a 1200, I wanted a rocker(front and rear), but I was holding back on doing the pump tunnel. The reason being...It would increase my cost tremendously(I had only five rides on my Impros prop for the 1200), it would increase my workload(as if we don't have enough to do, and basically I was scared. After getting my head screwed on straight...I pulled the trigger. I will say this. If you are doing a 1200, a pump tunnel should be mandatory. If you can do it...a mag pump should be next. 1200s need water! Feed them. My ski is god damn rocket...and I attribute that to the pump tunnel.

So pull out the sawzall and cut that puny ass pump tunnel out. Don't let your girlfriend see how small it is...she will certainly laugh at you...
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stock tunnel on the left...Carter's tunnel on the right
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So here's why this was the hardest part of my project...ALL THE THINGS. It just takes time to get the tunnel where you want it. To get the pump where you want it. To get the pump alignment perfect. ETC ETC ETC. At this time I knew 2016 wasn't goin to happen so I dug in to do it PERFECT.

Let me ADD...only cut the entire tunnel out if you plan to use a WB2 155 plastic shoe. I went this route because the fitment to carter's tunnel is perfect, the pump centered in the show perfectly during testing and basically...I didn't like the aluminum shoes. I did however order both so you can't say I didn't try...
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So because I use the WB2 shoe...like I said...EVERYTHING got pushed forward. I used the intake bolted to the show as a guide where the tunnel would go.

I made sure the hull was level and then use a level to make sure my shoe was in sqaure.
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Using a beat ass pump for constant alignment
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This picture shows my front inserts had to get moved forward. Not that big of a deal...
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Finally, I trimmed the tunnel up and used some peanut butter to get it roughly in...
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The outside was only faired. The inside was fiberglassed like I had an endless supply. Here's the outside with a little bit of epoxy fair
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At this point there is no hole for the driveshaft but you can see where Carter marks the center. I used a simple hold saw and punched through. I then cut off the old tunnels extension and use piece of PVC that would because my new driveshaft hole.
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I temp installed a pump with a driveshaft and ensured that when I epoxied in the new coupler it would be centered. If you don't have a cold fusion driveshaft alignment tool...don't do this project. Your pump will never be in straight. It will destory the midshaft and driveline plus rob horsepower and make some nasty heat.

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From the outside...smooth it out...
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So that's pretty much the pump tunnel install. I learned everything by trial and error. Make sure you DO NOT put the tails on first and then try to do the tunnel. The extra access was invaluble. Speaking of the tails...lets get some:)...
What's a cold fusion driveshaft alignment tool and did you have to.move the Midshaft? Thanks Riche
 
It's always good to check the alignment of the shaft when installing a pump or shoe. If it's off you'll eat bearings in the midshaft and loose power since it's binding. Installing that tunnel is a decent amount of work I've done it. I used the alignment tool to double-check everything.
 
It's always good to check the alignment of the shaft when installing a pump or shoe. If it's off you'll eat bearings in the midshaft and loose power since it's binding. Installing that tunnel is a decent amount of work I've done it. I used the alignment tool to double-check everything.
Do you wanna sell it to me? So with this alignment tool, I would remove the mid shaft and bolt that putter ring to the bolts that held the mid shaft bearing and insert that little shaft with the kit to make sure it's centered so the pump tunnel shaft hole is centered? Won't I be using the original 144 pump mount where they were fiberglasded in from the factory or do they have to be moved? Dude from Thrust Inc. Said his pump is custom made for the B-1 with proper shaft length and bolts up to the 144 mount. Do I need to grind the pump fiberglass tabs off to raise the 155 upwards, my R&D ride plate won't fit
 
I'll answer your questions but I'd start a new thread for your build and get them answered there. Don't want to muck up this build thread.

Sounds like the pump from thrust is different and will fit without the tunnel modifications. The one carter sells you will use a 155 stock pump or aftermarket and adds a ton of volume which the blaster tunnel needs. Each pump size requires a shoe that's made for the diameter of the pump so it seals up.

Simple video on the tool

You use pump shims located on the four bolt tabs to move the shaft so it's centered in the hole.
 
I'm upgrading to a larger tunnel from Carter. But the fella from Thrust Inc said the pump mounting location from the 144 doestnt need changed. Thanks for the vids. Did you have to move your 155 pump upwards by d
Grinding those 4 fiberglass tabs off?
 
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