How To: Shorten your stock pole -PICS-

AquaToy

Jay-Are
Fyi

Just a litle helpful info here with the removal of the decals. Most of the time when you remove the decal, the glue is still there on the ski. You can get some citrus stuf, like Goof Off or Goo B Gone, and spray some of the adhesive. Let it set for a minute or two, then take a kitchen sponge (non abrasive) and work the adhesive in small circular motions. Apply some more and you wil notice that the adhesie is coming up. Takes some work but it will all be removed. Now, once its all removed you can spray this area with some alcohol to remove any residue so you will have a clean surface. this is the steps we take here at our sign shop.....hope this helps. And, for the record, im starting on my pole cuting come monday........thanks for a great thread!!
 

curt248

01 superjet 94 fx1 97 xp
Location
Chicago IL
I spent 10 minutes to get about a 1/2 an inch off of goo using the goo gone stuff. Then I took a small spray of carb cleaner and it all came off in one or two swipes. Do it quickly and no paint comes off. I had some water ready to rinse it a bit. I did this on some big stickers (about 2 feet long X 6 inches) on my gf's seadoo. I imagine brake cleaner would do the same. I was suprised that no paint or luster was lost. If any is lost, then just use some gel coat boat polish. It removes a thin layer and has your ski looking like new again.
 
thanks for the help. however i didn't cut right at the base like you. I left that part and put it in a vise and cranked it down, broke the fiber glass into 2 pieces with most the glue left on it.
 
Location
NorCal
I know this is a old thread, was just wondering those of you that ran thru bolts, I dont see how since the 3 top holes dont line up with the bottom 2? pictures of bolts used with length sizes would help alot. I bought 9 SS, 1/4 x 20 x 3/4in. I like the 2 thru bolts and the machine screws on the rest idea, but dont see how that can be done unless more holes are drilled out in the plastic?? 2, 3 1/2" inch thru bolts and 5 machine screws? Hope someone can help me out here lol..
 

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
Speaking of bumping a old thread.... I did this mod a week or so ago.

One thing not mentioned about getting the pole to fit back into the base: The factory pole has notches cut into each side, allowing for some squish. I used my 1/8" cut off wheel on my grinder to make mine.

Also, on removing decals.
Go to O'Rileys or what ever auto parts store or automotive paint supply store and by a 3M Eraser wheel.
It will take the decals right off the pole with out chemicals. They're not cheap, about $35... but they're handy as hell. Removes decals, glue from the tray when you want to re-turf etc.. They last quite awhile.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=MMM+7498
 

Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
I know this is a old thread, was just wondering those of you that ran thru bolts, I dont see how since the 3 top holes dont line up with the bottom 2? pictures of bolts used with length sizes would help alot. I bought 9 SS, 1/4 x 20 x 3/4in. I like the 2 thru bolts and the machine screws on the rest idea, but dont see how that can be done unless more holes are drilled out in the plastic?? 2, 3 1/2" inch thru bolts and 5 machine screws? Hope someone can help me out here lol..

Just use 1/4"-20 button heads on all holes and nylock nuts inside.

Mark44
 

FlightPlanDan

Don'tTrustAfartAfter50
Why through bolt?

Ideally the epoxy is what holds the pole to the bottom end, the rivets or bolts should only be to hold the pole/bracket in place while the epoxy dries.

Am I missing something?:dunno:

Some feel that thru-bolting is stronger. I used rivets. I also used aluminum street signs for the rivet backing.(inside)

But, you touch on a point;

Once the pole is cut and the epoxy is in place: B4 drilling, screwing, or riveting: place the pole back on the ski with the hood on and the pole bolt in place.

Make the pole lay straight. (nothing is square...your cut could be perfect and still screw you up)
Leave it lay and set up.
Drill, bolt, rivet the next day.

Don't assume the hull, bracket, or anything else is square.

(accbr told me this when I was doing mine.....awesome piece of advice)
 
Thanks for taking the time to document this!

I used stainless phillips bolts as someone suggested and it turned out quite nice. Home Depot was out of the allen head button tops, otherwise I would have used those.

I also used a vice (jaw horse) as someone suggested to get the old piece out of the braket.

IMG_0235.jpgIMG_0237.jpgIMG_0236.jpg
 
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