- Location
- Asheville, NC
So does anyone have information on how to tune a flow control valve? Obviously its adjustable and i'm wondering about the process for general tuning on any ski. Thanks!
How To Tune a Flow Control Valve
- Thread starter brapperdoodle
- Start date
Captain PegLeg
GJP
- Location
- Villa Rica, Ga
I always leave the ski strapped down tight to a trailer and back the ski in the water. I unhook the end going into the stinger and hold it over board and fire up the ski. At idle, you want it closed, low rpms closed, you want to adjust it to where you grab a handful and it opens. Or above “X” amount of throttle, or for technical terms, pump pressure. Tune away! 
- Location
- Pembroke Pines, Florida
Mine came with these instructions.
http://jetworksperformance.com/wp-c...Jetworks-Flow-Control-Valve-Instructions-.pdf
http://jetworksperformance.com/wp-c...Jetworks-Flow-Control-Valve-Instructions-.pdf
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Oh Awesome! Great information. Does anyone know where to find some general information and breakdown of how jet pumps work? I understand the general mechanics, but Im looking for some good reading info about jet pumps and mid shaft assemblies. Trying to educate myself
- Location
- Asheville, NC
So I was finally able to try this with the ski on the trailer in the water. I tried the valve in every position and couldn't get any flow out of it. Maybe I was not hitting the throttle hard enough? I thought it would flow easier than that. I was whacking the throttle pretty good and nothing. Do I need to hold the throttle instead of just revving it for a blip?I always leave the ski strapped down tight to a trailer and back the ski in the water. I unhook the end going into the stinger and hold it over board and fire up the ski. At idle, you want it closed, low rpms closed, you want to adjust it to where you grab a handful and it opens. Or above “X” amount of throttle, or for technical terms, pump pressure. Tune away!
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Yeah I followed the instructions per diem, no flow.
- Location
- Pembroke Pines, Florida
No flow... when? At idle? Or no flow at WOT?
- Location
- Asheville, NC
No flow at idle, and no flow with half throttle blips. Im thinking its my technique, not holding consistent throttle. I guess this is relatively easy to diagnose haha. But really what I'm asking is when you are giving throttle and checking the flow, are you holding steady throttle or just quick bursts?
- Location
- Pembroke Pines, Florida
I put mine on, set it to lowest setting and started tuning it back as I rode. I could hear it dry out as I would decrease flow through the fcv... I would check flow on a trailer at a ramp by mimicking riding. Get it up to cruising rpm and brapp it like you would for setup wake or a trick... no?
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
if you have it turned back and no flow, then you may need to cut the spring a little to lesson the spring tension.
When I was tinkering with water routing last summer I did run into it being too strong a spring for certain configs. I think the things are calibrated with the thought that you would not be lowering the pressure by having more overboard lines than feed lines.
Single cooling should probably have one overboard pisser, dual cooling should probably have two overboard pissers. Im sure there are exceptions to that but that was my experience.
Single cooling should probably have one overboard pisser, dual cooling should probably have two overboard pissers. Im sure there are exceptions to that but that was my experience.
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
Draw a pic of your water routing and where you have the fcv etc. You might have to change which part of the T you have the FCV coming off of, or restrict your other line so more pressure builds behind the fcv.
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Initially with ski on trailer You hold the throttle stready at around 4000 rpm and watch fior flow/make adjustments till its starts flowing at 4K rpm. Ride and check water box temps to verify not over heating, 130 is good and hot, 140 and up us pushing your luck. Optional at this point is Referance Mark your adjustment point and expariment with less and more water while riding and see if you like better colder or hotter, while keeping an eye on the water box temps.
My pf pipe made more bottom with more water to box, I was expecting the opposit
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Thanks for all the help! Im gonna take a picture of everything and you can see how I have it routed. Thanks again
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Here are some photos of my engine bay. Don’t be too hard on me, this is my first Superjet haha the last picture is of the old corroded Jetworks FCV, I’m now running a new blowsion FCV 
- Location
- Coeur D' Alene, ID
Mmmm routing looks wonky to me, water is going to take path of least resistance, so with the FCV right there at the Y its going to go out the pissor instead of through flow control unless you have some sort of restrictor on the pissor line?
How big is the water outlet fitting going out for your pisser? If that’s extra big you will lose some pressure there but restricting it will raise temp in motor and exhaust...which might not be all bad. Shoot for 160 ish motor temp with the restriction, once that’s dialed in start loosening up your spring until it opens at 4K rpm or so, routing looks like it should work I think
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
I would change your T routing. Have the water going straight to the fcv with the hard 90 degree angle going to the pisser.
- Location
- Pembroke Pines, Florida
I had a Y fitting originally and switched to a T. Also, Is your pisser straight through, 45, 90? 
- Location
- Asheville, NC
My pisser is just a standard size Blowsion 45 degree turnout. Is that okay? Man I was wondering about that fitting, It originally had a plastic T fitting and I swapped it for the Brass Y. It totally makes sense now, Im gonna swap it back to a T and recheck. I hope I didn't fry my waterbox... Oh well, excuse to upgrade haha