I would check the flux capacitor. That is what you told me to check when I was having the same problem.
If you can solve this one you win the prize - SOLVED
- Thread starter J..
- Start date
I would check the flux capacitor. That is what you told me to check when I was having the same problem.
- Location
- the jetski grave yard
I would check the flux capacitor. That is what you told me to check when I was having the same problem.
i'm 100% positive that i never said that. as much as i like that movie, i NEVER say those words. i think its stupid.......... the phrase used to be , check the muffler bearings.
Don't forget the kanuder valve
iangdesign
Cats, lots of cats!
- Location
- United States
If your trying to track down the problem between bpipe and a/m head wouldn't it make sense to put both stock parts back on if they are still available...see how it runs and eliminate from there?
I thought about putting the stock pipe back on, but unfortunately I scrapped it Might have to see if I can borrow one.
I had a spare hour last night, not long enough to do the exhaust but I pulled the head off to see what I could find. All looked pretty good apart from dark plugs and scratches on the bore after 0.7 hrs run time! Gunky looking plugs is likely down to the miss causing poor burning. Scratches are another thing, the main mark you can actually feel in the steel, not sure whats up with that.
I also tried to make a quick clip running at medium to high RPM quickly while it was dry and hot. I think this eliminates water as the cause. If anything the last time it was ridden and totally carked it after bout 10 mins, it stayed like that dry running on the trailer when I got home (as in second clip in OP). When I plugged hose in to flush it actually improved straight away back to standard miss. This is so confusing, I think I need to get the electrics analysed to rule that out totally. It still seems like an electrical miss to me. You guys have been extremely helpful but I dont rate the chances of this being diagnosed.
Maybe it is the flux capacitor
Might have to see if I can borrow one.I had a spare hour last night, not long enough to do the exhaust but I pulled the head off to see what I could find. All looked pretty good apart from dark plugs and scratches on the bore after 0.7 hrs run time! Gunky looking plugs is likely down to the miss causing poor burning. Scratches are another thing, the main mark you can actually feel in the steel, not sure whats up with that.
I also tried to make a quick clip running at medium to high RPM quickly while it was dry and hot. I think this eliminates water as the cause. If anything the last time it was ridden and totally carked it after bout 10 mins, it stayed like that dry running on the trailer when I got home (as in second clip in OP). When I plugged hose in to flush it actually improved straight away back to standard miss. This is so confusing, I think I need to get the electrics analysed to rule that out totally. It still seems like an electrical miss to me. You guys have been extremely helpful but I dont rate the chances of this being diagnosed.
Maybe it is the flux capacitor
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
Air intrusion in a fuel line from a cracked hose or filter that got disturbed while you were doing all this work?
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
Any updates?
I think that might be coming from the factory nipple thats at the front of the stock heads?
I would leak test the engine and swap out the stator with a known good one.
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- Location
- Granbury, TX
I had very similar problem a few years ago...
I thought it was a bad s/s switch. Swapped out damn near every electrical component, tried the salt spray with lights off etc.
I ended up roasting a piston and rebuilding (and pressure testing my carbs) as a result. Turns out the fuel pump block off plate on the MAG side carb was leaking like a mofo. It caused a miss when water got in the engine compartment (just like yours) and finially reared its head on a day when I rode around without splashing the hood vents. I'm assuming the miss was my carb sucking in water and feeding it to the cylinder.
I wouldn't have found it had I not pressure tested the carbs...
I thought it was a bad s/s switch. Swapped out damn near every electrical component, tried the salt spray with lights off etc.
I ended up roasting a piston and rebuilding (and pressure testing my carbs) as a result. Turns out the fuel pump block off plate on the MAG side carb was leaking like a mofo. It caused a miss when water got in the engine compartment (just like yours) and finially reared its head on a day when I rode around without splashing the hood vents. I'm assuming the miss was my carb sucking in water and feeding it to the cylinder.
I wouldn't have found it had I not pressure tested the carbs...
Ok mate just read up on the 3 pages...my mate over the pond has torn his ski apart over the past few months like you have and replaced pretty much everything. He finally found the fault which was the crank had gone...motor only had a rebuild less than 30 hours ago to. Just a thought, it means ripping it all apart again but hey what else you got to try???
Keep us all posted on your findings dude
Keep us all posted on your findings dude
JT_Freeride
John Tetenes @Jtetenes
- Location
- Long Island
Not sure if this was said. But since you only ride salt I've seen this too many times. Cause me and a buddy's ski to run just like that. The return got clogged pull it off and see if you can see through the holes. That and if your running a fuel selector bypass it
- Location
- manteca ca,
Thermal switch missing. Cant just dangle the wires or just plug them into each other from the cdi. One side has to see ground, and the other must not see ground. Stuck in limp mode. Timing curve map nulled.
Hi guys
Sorry, I've been meaning to reply. I've parked it up since my last post, can't bring myself to replace yet another component and not have it solve the problem...
The answer is somewhere in this thread and that drives me nuts. I know its something simple. I've been trying to think along the lines of what someone mentioned last page, go back to when the problem started. It started the ride after I fitted an ADA head and had the pipe re powder coated. I can't believe its the pipe, I've had it off half a dozen times and its physically fine.
Since that ride (now five months ago) I've checked and changed virtually everything. To address the more recent posts, it has had a new pair of known good carbs swapped on, blocks been pressure tested, crank in block looks and spins perfect bearings are mint, fuel supply side flows free (I will check return at dirtsons suggestion).
Jimu, your suggestion gives me hope. I disconnected the thermal sensor when fitting the ADA naturally. First I just chopped the leads and since have unplugged and taped them up inside the box. I thought the switch was just a basic circuit that opened or closed with heat however? Is the cdi really smart enough to have limp modes?
Sorry, I've been meaning to reply. I've parked it up since my last post, can't bring myself to replace yet another component and not have it solve the problem...
The answer is somewhere in this thread and that drives me nuts. I know its something simple. I've been trying to think along the lines of what someone mentioned last page, go back to when the problem started. It started the ride after I fitted an ADA head and had the pipe re powder coated. I can't believe its the pipe, I've had it off half a dozen times and its physically fine.
Since that ride (now five months ago) I've checked and changed virtually everything. To address the more recent posts, it has had a new pair of known good carbs swapped on, blocks been pressure tested, crank in block looks and spins perfect bearings are mint, fuel supply side flows free (I will check return at dirtsons suggestion).
Jimu, your suggestion gives me hope. I disconnected the thermal sensor when fitting the ADA naturally. First I just chopped the leads and since have unplugged and taped them up inside the box. I thought the switch was just a basic circuit that opened or closed with heat however? Is the cdi really smart enough to have limp modes?
Long time no post.
Just want to say my mate finally solved this and of course it was the one thing I thought I had covered but hadnt. Water was getting into the start stop switch. He blew it out, packed it full of grease and it's been fine since.
All adds up seeing it used to happen when I fell off.
Thanks for the help here.
Just want to say my mate finally solved this and of course it was the one thing I thought I had covered but hadnt. Water was getting into the start stop switch. He blew it out, packed it full of grease and it's been fine since.
All adds up seeing it used to happen when I fell off.
Thanks for the help here.
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
Glad you figured it out and really glad you came back and updated this thread!!!!