Is this required for the scupper to work?

I want to cut this half circle shaped tab off near the end of the scupper pipe so I can get more throw from the trim nozzle. I know it's been done but I think those guys had a bilge pump and removed the scupper all together. I still want to run the scupper and wondered if this piece was required for venturi effect (so the scupper would suck). It must have been there for a reason??
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2321.jpg
    IMG_2321.jpg
    59.5 KB · Views: 91

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
That's not a scupper, that's the oem bilge suction. (a scupper is a tube with a flap valve through the hull directly outside the hull)

I doubt you'll notice much removing it. My guess is it's to counteract any loss of thrust from that side due to sucking air/water from the bilge into the water flow.
 
Right on Jett.
Sea Doos have a similar type of suction straw. I had one fall off our Sea Doo one time and it would actually push water backwards through the OEM bilge.
If it were me, I would probably install a bilge or scupper(my preference) and ditch the oem suction bilge. They you could remove it all together.
 
So, I do need this for the stock siphon bilge system then. I'm not talking about touching the pipe at all; just the plastic oval after it. Won't the passing of water over this angled pipe create the suction?
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
The tube has to extend into a negative pressure area of the jetstream to work. As stated above, if flush with the sides of the pump it will now be a high pressure area and will push water into the hull. TRUST ME! This is not fun! If you still really want to remove it then all you would have to do is remove it and then just epoxy fill the tube to plug it.

I leave mine functional just because it's a free way to remove water from the hull. To each their own. This is the one thing keeping me from boring my own nozzle.
 
I don't want to remove the tube or change anything about it. I just want to loose the plastic half circle shaped extension of the nozzle so I can get more throw out of it.
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
I see what you mean now, Is it just added support behind the tube? Mine is metal and doesn't have that little extension. I'll bet you can take some off the sides to get your throw and still keep some strength directly behind the nozzle. I'd do it.
 

dbrutherford

Parts Whore
Location
Fairmont, WV
I thought the half circle, "D tab" was for the auto circling effect of the ski when you fall off.

I will comment though that when I switched over to a PJS nozzle on my all stock X2 last summer, the stock siphon bilge didn't work for crap anymore and my engine compartment would fill up a lot faster with water. Then the drive shaft and hot engine would make a steam sauna inside my engine compartment and my ski ran bad until all the water would eventually get siphoned out.

This year it will have an aftermarket bilge but heed the warning if you do not have an aftermarket bilge pump!
 
Well I hacked most of it off so we'll see what effect it has. This stock bilge pump worked excellent before but I'll keep an eye on it. Maybe I'll need an electric bilge pump now.
 

Crab

thanks darin...noswad!
Location
Seattle
Well I hacked most of it off so we'll see what effect it has. This stock bilge pump worked excellent before but I'll keep an eye on it. Maybe I'll need an electric bilge pump now.
Put in two electric pumps and only run one, that way when it dies you just switch to the other since its so hard to get back there.
 

dbrutherford

Parts Whore
Location
Fairmont, WV
Yeah my stock siphon bilge worked pretty darn good until I swaped out nozzles. Then I noticed my ski filling up with water more and it running crappy. I got thinking back and the nozzle was the only thing I changed.


Also on the later years X2's they had a larger siphon in them. My 1991 Kawie 650 SX, 93, 94, and 95 X2's all had this.
 
Put in two electric pumps and only run one, that way when it dies you just switch to the other since its so hard to get back there.

That's a good idea! Do you use an automatic float switch or a handle bar mounted one?
The engine is out now so I can get in there to fabricate an actuator for a trim push/pull rod running down the original cooling return pipe.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
That's a good idea! Do you use an automatic float switch or a handle bar mounted one?
The engine is out now so I can get in there to fabricate an actuator for a trim push/pull rod running down the original cooling return pipe.

This is what Tom made for my X2. It bolts down with the 2 rear support bolts. These are the kind that work with a switch. I leave one bilge on the entire time I ride. The X2 takes on a lot of water when it rolls so I have the second bilge to get the water out faster if the hull gets too full.
 

Attachments

  • 1006081812.jpg
    1006081812.jpg
    55 KB · Views: 30
Cool bilge mount!

I think I figured out why that half circle shaped extension was there. This part of the nozzle is the same as what Kawasaki put on the 650SX. The SX has no trim so the turning part of the nozzle mounts right to the first part (the part with this extension). The SX turn nozzle is carved out big time from the factory to get good turn throw and clear the scupper pipe. When the nozzle is turned fully the other way, the carved out area would have 'leaked' water blast through this hole so it looks like they extended the first section with that half circle to direct water beyond it and into the turn nozzle.

Sorry for the novel.
 

Attachments

  • 2008-11-08 14-18-00 - IMG_2367.jpg
    2008-11-08 14-18-00 - IMG_2367.jpg
    71.5 KB · Views: 24
  • 2008-11-08 14-19-01 - IMG_2369.jpg
    2008-11-08 14-19-01 - IMG_2369.jpg
    66.6 KB · Views: 23
Last edited:

dbrutherford

Parts Whore
Location
Fairmont, WV
I still think it is for the auto circling feature. What else would cause the ski to circle? Aftermarket nozzles like Pro Tech don't have the half circle.
 
I still think it is for the auto circling feature. What else would cause the ski to circle? Aftermarket nozzles like Pro Tech don't have the half circle.

What happens to skis with those aftermarket nozzles when they idle on their own? Go straight or turn either way? My standup ski will circle either left or right. Usually right, but I thought that it had something to do with engine torque.
 
Top Bottom