It’s the little things that make a ski nice

Jcary85

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Vendor Account
Location
Glenmoore pa
Hey folks -
I’m having trouble finding the smaller 1/4” brass tees you commonly see on futl lines going to carbs. Any idea where to buy?

Also struggling to find a reasonably priced supplier for the hose clamps that don’t tear up the hoses. I forget what they are called but the holes in the clamp aren’t actually open, they are just depressions.

Would love to find a supplier for OEM style barrel connectors that isn’t outrageously priced. I’ve tried many different varieties and only the ones from the Japanese connector site seem like original. I find it hard to believe he’s having them made for him. There must be some overseas company making them.
 
The smallest smooth soft hose clamps from McMaster are 3/8 wide band, anybody got a source for 5/16 wide band all stainless ?
 
I get mine at Lowes..... You dont have to tighten them down so tight the out hose is squirting through the worm drive slots.

I grabbed some stepless 316 clamps from a local marine store, my silicone cooling lines have to be super tight not to leak... One of the reasons I will be switching my cooling lines to some standard rubber later on. Silicone looks cool but all its done for me is leak so far. Luckily the step-less clamps can be cranked down without damaging my sensitive silicone lines haha
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
I saw @OCD Solutions post this a bit ago. Looked like a good source to me.

Scroll to the bottom of this page and check out the OEM connectors.
http://www.cycleterminal.com/bullet-terminals.html
Technically they are 3.9mm.

These will work on all the ebox wires.

Also once I bought my MSD crimp tool and each set of jaws, these have been much simpler to install then last last 10 years of plier pinching and soldering.
 
Location
West MI
Not that it's the cheapest, but digikey has all kinds of those electrical connectors. Different size sleeves for different size wires, at least green and clear, and about a million variations of the crimp connectors for different gauge wire and different thickness insulator.
 
Location
Stockton
Why those are the worst! They strip so easy. Use oetikers, they keep constant spring tension on connection. They never fail ever..

I found the oetikers didn’t work well on the real thick wall silicone cooling hose RRP uses when running cooling restricters.., lines blow off so had to use worm drives instead

But I have them every where else
 

Jcary85

Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
Glenmoore pa
Why those are the worst! They strip so easy. Use oetikers, they keep constant spring tension on connection. They never fail ever..
No I love the oetikers And prefer them. Sometimes there’s no access for the tool or you might want to be able to get the hose off regularly (stinger jet, hard to reach pisser outlets, etc)
 
Location
Ak
I found the oetikers didn’t work well on the real thick wall silicone cooling hose RRP uses when running cooling restricters.., lines blow off so had to use worm drives instead

But I have them every where else

make sure you are using SAE hose barbs vs metric. Note all the kawi stuff is metric so sometimes the hose fits sloppy. IE 6mm hose barb is .236 vs 1/4” .250. So the 1/4” line will blow off a 6mm hose barb. I use 7mm hose barbs with 1/4” silicone hose. The silicone hose stretches over nicely and gives you better flow through fitting.

You can get a clamp tool that works two ways for crimping. Or use side cutters to crimp in a tight spot. The easiest way to pop off the oetikers is to get a sharp flat screwdriver put it under the tab end then tap with a hammer. Pop the tab end up to release. Then grab the pinched area with pliers and pull. Off in seconds! They have never failed me when the hose and barb connection are properly fit.
 
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