The flame arrestor adapter has 3 bolts that go onto the carb..I hope that helps a bit.
Why am I backing out the adjustment screws a full turn when you just stated that they need to be open 7/8 and 5/8.
Anyone got any pics to help? LOL
I'm used to tuning holley double pumpers on my race car.
Alright so I will thread in both adjustment screws all the way...and then back them out one FULL turn and go from there....Now backing the screws off will effectively increase the fuel mixture correct (making it run richer) or do I have it backwards?
ok I will tinker tomorrow...The plugs are almost always on the dark and wet side so leaning the mixture may help.
Thanks again
No idea...I havent touched anything yet![/QUOTE
before you just screw them completely closed, take note of how many turns it takes to seat them closed.
Both were turned out 1.25 turns. I reset them to 3/4th of a turn open right now
7/8 to 5/8.
5/8 minimum...
If it's hard to start it's most likely a bad gasket and water is getting into the engine somehow. Out of the water run without hose shut it down and try to restart it. If it starts fine put it on the hose and run it and look for leaks. Kill the motor then try to restart it right away. If it doesn't restart shut the hose off and check the plugs to see if they are wet. It could also be a bad check valve on the fuel tank or an ignition component thats on its last legs and doesn't work when it warms up or gets shaken up.
Strong water pressure through a hose will find the leak right away. A pin hole leak in a head gasket won't show up on a compression tester but will throw just enough water in the cylinder to make it hard to start. Be careful I had a buddy who ran a ski with a bad head gasket on the hose and ended up sheering a woodruff key when he went to restart it. It filled with water in no time. He is lucky he didn't bend a rod. That ski had cylinders within 5 psi of one another.