Lamey Cylinder / Power Factor Exhaust issue and cooling line routing question...

[joesuperjet]

How are you guys with this pipe goign to stop water running back down into the exhaust port when you sit it on the beach witht eh nose up the beach
It seems to me that water has a clear flow back to your engine
This is why normal pipes have the loop in them to stop this happening
I just see it costing people cranks

Gonna have to do it the same way we used to do it on the old Polaris Pro 785's we used to race. Put it on the tote backwards and keep the nose down until you blow it out. Or put it on the tote forward and keep it running as it comes out of the water continuing to blow it out until its dry. We toasted a crank before I started using this method. Also you better make a jet works flow valve mandatory on the stinger water line so none leaks out of it when it's not running. At least there's a little bit of fall in the Manifold so the water doesn't have a straight route to the cylinders. Some dry pipes last forever, and some crack, leaking water into the chamber sometimes without your knowledge. (But most would notice the power lacking if it were cracked) With that said, I would still make it a good practice to keep the nose down on the ski when it's not running..... Good luck


JAM

 

[Roo]

gotcha. I just had my cylinders honed as well, how many gallons of fuel did u go b4 top end and how many gallons on crank b4 rebuild.

btw-I would probaly add a lil more chamfer on port edges to prevent ring snagging.

Eh, not much. I actually bought the motor used off a member here. I hydro locked the motor. Long story short, let ski float, leaky scupper, tried to start to drive off and pull water out but it was to late... water had already gone in the carbs and I never bothered to pop the hood to take a look. 100% stupidity on my part :261:

As far as the chamfering goes, Paul knows what he is doing. If there was any question about it, I am sure he would have addressed it. If I did want to go over it one more time, just use some sand paper or...?

I have rebuilt motors but never messed with the resurfacing/chamfering - send out for that.

 

[GIL]

Eh, not much. I actually bought the motor used off a member here. I hydro locked the motor. Long story short, let ski float, leaky scupper, tried to start to drive off and pull water out but it was to late... water had already gone in the carbs and I never bothered to pop the hood to take a look. 100% stupidity on my part :261:

As far as the chamfering goes, Paul knows what he is doing. If there was any question about it, I am sure he would have addressed it. If I did want to go over it one more time, just use some sand paper or...?

I have rebuilt motors but never messed with the resurfacing/chamfering.

Not what I was saying at all, I just noticed the edges looked a little sharp. U can use a stone on a dremel and put the edges closer to a 45degree angle to prevent the rings from snagging the edges as they go past the ports.

 

[waxhead]

yeah i am thinkiing a b-pipe sounds awesome

 

[Roo]

Not what I was saying at all

Sorry dude, I was not implying you were.

yeah i am thinkiing a b-pipe sounds awesome

The last four b-pipe's I have had were :bananajump:

One of my major reasons is the powervalves. I have learned that clearance on items in the engine compartment is a wonderful thing :cheer:

Time will tell.

The points you bring are all very valid and good you point out. Most I already knew, but they might shed light to others thinking about trying this setup.

 

[restosud]

let us know how it runs with the new pipe will you?

 

[Roo]

let us know how it runs with the new pipe will you?

Absolutely :cool2:


But unfortunatly that will not be until end of March, beginning of April (pretty cold up here in Michigan at the moment).

I will however be posting up my build when the last piece of the puzzle arrives :sneaky:

 

[Millertime]

water routing seems odd to me. but I normally run R&D dry pipes or factory type 4 or 9 pipes.

I normally run both cooling lines from the pump to the manifold, use one off the head to feed the pipe. By doing this you pre-heat theh water and it changes the temp of the chamber. The warmer chamber normally makes better mid and low power. I run 3 outlets from the top of the head. I would "T" into one of the "red" lines off the pump and make one end be your "yellow line"

 

[GIL]

Absolutely :cool2:


But unfortunatly that will not be until end of March, beginning of April (pretty cold up here in Michigan at the moment). Dammit man, you got a new pipe, who cares how cold the water is. LOL I have ridden ski's in the middle of the night in the dead of winter to see if the new part(whatever it may be) made a difference or not.

I will however be posting up my build when the last piece of the puzzle arrives :sneaky:

.

 

[Roo]

Here is the new routing I plan to run after talking to a top builder - someone who knows this pipe probably better then anyone else here.

 

[Roo]

.

Haha, Gil your funny.

My lake is starting to ice over. Life is nice living on the water though.

Also, I sold my RN hull so I am hull-less at the moment. :sneaky:

 

[Big Kahuna]

ok, 2 lines to the manifold, one split to the chamber. Why not run a dedicated line to the manifold, this will cool the cylinder, dump out one or two from the head overboard, then run the second line straight to the pipe and feed the exhaust with a dedicated line.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

This is one of my biggest concerns and I am always thinking about it.

I do flatwater only and pull my sky out of the water even when just relaxing for a minute (custom beach cart).

I will probably end up doing some kind of flapper like the older Kawi's... Also though of maybe in inline flapper valve, kinda like a sump pump/scupper one. Only problem is finding one big enough and that can with stand the heat.

Inline flapper valve in the exhaust will not work,trust me on this one I learned that lesson the hard way.

 

[Millertime]

quote
ok, 2 lines to the manifold, one split to the chamber. Why not run a dedicated line to the manifold, this will cool the cylinder, dump out one or two from the head overboard, then run the second line straight to the pipe and feed the exhaust with a dedicated line.
end quote

I don't feel one line is enough to sufficiently cool the motor.
I have built stuff more for race purposes in the past so maybe one line is enough?
On most of the superstock skis we have put together we run 2 half inch lines to the motor and sometimes a 3rd 3/8 inch line.
the fuel you run will determine alot of the cooling requirements and the water you ride in
I normally run MS109

 

[Roo]

ok, 2 lines to the manifold, one split to the chamber. Why not run a dedicated line to the manifold, this will cool the cylinder, dump out one or two from the head overboard, then run the second line straight to the pipe and feed the exhaust with a dedicated line.

Team Scream / Xmetal knows a thing or two :biggthumpup:

 

[Big Kahuna]

really?

 

[Roo]

really?

My answer was a bit smart ass, I apologize.

My new routing is from the advice of Mr. Supertune / XScream Team.

 

[Big Kahuna]

I know, I was messing with you back..........

There is always two ways to do things.

 

[GIL]

I know, I was messing with you back..........

There is always two ways to do things.[/quote]

I hope for Anita's sake you do it with the lights off instead of on. LMAO
That there was funny.

 

[GIL]

quote
ok, 2 lines to the manifold, one split to the chamber. Why not run a dedicated line to the manifold, this will cool the cylinder, dump out one or two from the head overboard, then run the second line straight to the pipe and feed the exhaust with a dedicated line.
end quote

I don't feel one line is enough to sufficiently cool the motor.
I have built stuff more for race purposes in the past so maybe one line is enough?
On most of the superstock skis we have put together we run 2 half inch lines to the motor and sometimes a 3rd 3/8 inch line.
the fuel you run will determine alot of the cooling requirements and the water you ride in
I normally run MS109

WOW. I have had a couple of engine builders tell me MS109 is NO GOOD unless at Havasu where it is required.