Freestyle LIGHTWEIGHT battery....? what are you running...?

Location
NW PA
I win, A123 26650 4s2p battery (same cells as in a tesla roadster) $85 shipped. If the capacity isn't enough you can get a 4s3p battery (4 in series [determines voltage], 3 series in parallel [determines capacity] that holds more energy in less weight than a deka 9. Cost is slightly more but justafiably so. You would need a connector and maybe a special charger. My next battery will be one of these.

a123 4s2p
Weight 1.43lb
Volts 13.2
Amp-Hour 4.6
Continuous A 138
Peak A 276
Width 4"
Height 2.75"
Depth 2"

EXT-9
Weight 5.4lb
Volts 12
Amp-Hour 8
CCA 120
Length 6"
Width 3.44"
Height 4.19"

ViewPicture.aspx
 
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Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
I've actually been reading about the A123 batteries for a while but haven't had the guts to pull the trigger yet. I would like to get a 4s3p (4 cell sets / 3 sets in parallel) as a main and have the 4s2p as a reserve. The two would probably weigh under 4lbs, give around 10-11 amp/hours, and cost around $200-$250 depending on where you buy them. The charger is what has me hesitating on this system though as they're fairly complex. You also have to worry about balancing the cells from time to time and depleting the batteries really kills them.

I run total loss so I have to worry about killing the batteries and being stranded or having my day ended. These batteries have the capability to take a fast charge in 15 minutes. They are pricey so are lightweight aftermarket hulls, hoods, poles, etc.
 
sounds like its getting a little too high tech and high $ for the majority of regular people who just want to ride reliably without a hassel . I think the Deka 9 agm is the way to go.. '' a fair weight and a fair preice '' or just any mfg's AGM that will do the job for that matter . just carry 1/2 less gallon of fuel for the same weight savings betwee the deka and the a123 '' 4 lb difference ''
 
sounds like its getting a little too high tech and high $ for the majority of regular people who just want to ride reliably without a hassel . I think the Deka 9 agm is the way to go.. '' a fair weight and a fair preice '' or just any mfg's AGM that will do the job for that matter . just carry 1/2 less gallon of fuel for the same weight savings betwee the deka and the a123 '' 4 lb difference ''
good call frank. i say the deka or the big crank is the way to go also.
 

baxt3r

BBQ
Location
Charlotte, NC
I have to say LiPo batteries are not the way to go in a jetski. Discharging them past a certain point reduces the battery life which pretty much disqualifies them for use with a total loss system. You need a LiPo charger AND you must balance the packs. Storage is also an issue since LiPo manufacturers reccomend you keep the battery somewhere around 50%, so you'll be checking on it all winter. LiPos also can "pop". The possibility of that alone would make me say hell no to use in an enclosed hull with fuel fumes being a distinct possiblity. Look on YouTube for LiPo packs failing in radio control applications. I've seen it first hand and it is hot, smokey, and not worth the risk. I know I sound like a broken record, but I would wait until the technology improves a bit and the hard cases are more reliable.

Looking at the picture eeerie posted, the white plug you see is the balance connector.

This is from overcharging, but heavy impacts can rupture the case and cause the same thing.
 
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Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
Well like I said earlier, I haven't pulled the trigger on the LiPO batteries yet because they're expensive but here's how I see it. Your starter isn't going to turn over if you've got below 11 volts anyway. These packs are fully charged at 14-14.4v and their recommended cutoff voltage is about 10v so I see no danger there. Impact damage is a concern but let's think about that... If it's strapped down, the most force it'll have on it is it's own weight unless you're being stupid and putting other stuff on top of the battery. This can be further reduced by padding the battery pack which I would do anyway for something that small and expensive. Last is the overcharge potential. Since these peak out above what a normal 12v battery can take, I don't see the danger there but at the same time, I think you'd have to be fairly careless/stupid to try and charge these type of batteries using anything other than a specialized LipO charger which has the capability to monitor individual cell voltage. Most people who blow up batteries are using timer based chargers not peak detection chargers. However, I don't run a charging system but I would have some concerns for overcharging on stock electrics.
 
Location
Fl
There are many different chemistry of lithium batteries, Lipo is the most dangerous but holds the most energy per lb , 123a is lithium iron phosphate and safe, it's a great batt.
 
Location
NW PA
Standard Li-ion nail penetration video
A123 Li-ion nail penetration video
Guys with motorcycles use these too.
 
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baxt3r

BBQ
Location
Charlotte, NC
I guess I should have read your post again. I missed the A123 part and just went on about LiPos. My mistake.


Added: It is important that the differences be noted and anyone thinking of going this route get the right kind of battery.
 
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chriselmore_1

high on resin
Location
san jose ca
i have bean running an interstate sealed agm FAYTX20HL for about a year and just ordered another because i dropped one off the hood of my truck and cracked it lol! and it still works and tested fine at autozone! from my research these batteries are prob the best in my opinion. 18 ah, 310cca and about 10 pounds. still alot lighter than stock. i would deff take a couple more pounds than a deka for the extra juice u get. plus my advent draws all the spark energy from from the battery so the extra juice helps alot. my old lady got me one from her interstate dealer for 78$ with tax
 
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Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
i have bean running an interstate sealed agm FAYTX20HL for about a year

Good info on that battery. Although I'm reading it's 11.2lbs. I think I like the FAYTX14AHL model better though. It's 7.7lbs, has 12a/h, 210cca, and is around the $80 price. Just wanted to throw that out as an option.
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
I'm been talking with some of the RC guys on the A123 batteries and the more I look at them, the more I'm beginning to shy away from them...again. Most chargers for these batteries run on 12volt power and most don't charge more than 6 cells at a time unless you start getting into the $200+ chargers. So I'd have to split the pack up and charge them 4 cells at a time. That would mean I'd have to charge the cells in 3-4 different sets which would be incredibly annoying at the end of every ride. The additional connectors will add complication and potential for failure as well. Add the cost of an AC to DC power supply for the charger and you're starting to look at over $200 just for a charger. I don't think I could stomach $400+ for adequate battery power and a charger just to save a few pounds while adding everyday headache.
 
Location
NW PA
For someone running total loss I understand how A123 cells would not work in their situation. As I understand it, a 4s2/3p pack would work exactly as a normal battery being charged by the running engine. potentially complicated balanced charging only occurs when you kill the battery or after winterization for a boost, that is if they need them.
 
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