Freestyle LIGHTWEIGHT battery....? what are you running...?

I only know of a few people using Lithium batteries in a PWC. I dont know if they are suitable for total loss applications either. What is the AH requirement for total loss? I have been wanting to try these batteries out for some time now.
 
From what I read That produces at least twice what you need ''' 240 cranking amps ,''', but im sure you only can start it a couple of times and I do mean a couple !
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
Anyone test the actual CCA cold cranking amps from any of these smaller batteries?

The regular size Odyssey PC625 is rated at 265-CCA at 13.2-lbs, but when they're new, measure around 400-CCA using a Midtronics conductance tester.
 

CD155MX

Squirrel!!!
Location
Alta Loma, CA
Anyone test the actual CCA cold cranking amps from any of these smaller batteries?

The regular size Odyssey PC625 is rated at 265-CCA at 13.2-lbs, but when they're new, measure around 400-CCA using a Midtronics conductance tester.


I'd like to see a test on the Full Spectrum battery. Crashnburn86 made a good point about the $ spend per pounds saved.
 

Philip Clemmons

Owner, P&P Performance
Location
Richmond, Va
I use the Deka ETX 9 with a 8 mil, 946cc stroker with TL. It will easily go all day on TL, with multiple start/stops, and has no issue at all cranking that big motor. At 6 lbs, its a good weight savings. I don't see any issue at all with a regular setup for reliability, although Im sure it sacrifices longevity on a constantly cranked, swamped motor.......................
 
Ok well think of it this way, and tell me if im wrong. Most modifications are done for power or weight reduction. Your average cost of a weight reduction runs you 100 $ per lb. If you get an aftermarket hood your going from 17bs(not sure but around that) to somewhere less then 12 and hoods range from 500 to 900. Typically a 7-9 lb hood will run you 900$. After market hulls- stock hull is around 130? and aftermarket range from 90 to 60. Thats a weight diff of up to 60 lbs which would be around 100 dollars a lb. Im not accurate on my wieghts but this works out for almost any aftermarket part you by for weigt reduction. If you are running a 7-10lb battery and you get this 1.6 lb battery you loose 5.4-8.4 lbs 260 divided by 8.4 is 30.9 dollars per lb lost. So in my eyes its not a bad deal. Anyone dissagree? This is implied more towards flatwater!

Good thinking, I agree to some extent about the cost to weight formula but the carbon hood is long lasting and the battery is not IMO, so I think some weight saving mods are expendable parts with their own separate formula.
 
Last edited:

BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
2 knots, some turf underneath and I turfed the entire outisde of the battery to be safe. I have killed too many batteries by giving them hard landings and breaking cells. I figured a bunch of turf all over couldn't hurt.

I just had an issue in the beginning of this season. I bought a full size 80 dollar battery and destroyed it on the second ride when it came out of my battery tray. The positive side welded itself to the ADA head and girdle stud and left me stranded in the middle of some nasty 6 foot surf. Needless to say it was a long tow back to the ramp. Now I made sure that sucker isn't going anywhere. Nevermind my melted wires and crap connections...lol.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF0437.jpg
    DSCF0437.jpg
    59.3 KB · Views: 74
  • DSCF0436.jpg
    DSCF0436.jpg
    61.1 KB · Views: 75
  • DSCF0435.jpg
    DSCF0435.jpg
    59.9 KB · Views: 71
Cool Thanks! I used 2 BIG heavy duty zip ties and went under the battery tray and over the top. Broke in less than 5 minutes. These were the monster heating&cooling zip ties 3' long, I was shocked that battery was solid before I went out. It was the little locking tab inside the head that failed.
 

BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
Im almost thinking of adding another strap just to be safe. Big 3/4 rolls in the surf every once in a while moves things all over the engine bay.
 

Philip Clemmons

Owner, P&P Performance
Location
Richmond, Va
I use a 2" military spec hook and loop (Velcro) strap from Mcmaster carr that goes under the box and pulls really tight. It's worked well even through big rolls and some backies.
 
Anyone test the actual CCA cold cranking amps from any of these smaller batteries?

The regular size Odyssey PC625 is rated at 265-CCA at 13.2-lbs, but when they're new, measure around 400-CCA using a Midtronics conductance tester.


PC 625 Specs:

* YB16-CLB replacement
* 625 cranking amps for 5 seconds
* 545 cranking amps for 10 seconds
* 480 cranking amps for 20 seconds
* Short circuit current over 1800A
* 27 minute reserve capacity with 25amp load
* Length 6.7"
* Width 3.90"
* Height 6.89"
* Weight 13.2 lbs
 

djraider700

lol wut?
Location
South Jersey
used one of those braille batteries in my car for about 2 years. took it out and put it in my old sxi pro. i think it was the 11.5lb one. that battery was unstoppable. never let me down.
 

CD155MX

Squirrel!!!
Location
Alta Loma, CA
I have been really tempted but its a lot of money to spend on a consumable. Even though its really light and it should last a long time if you take care of it.
 
so what do you think about the deka etx9....? is 120cca enough to be reliable for multiple starts, and i mean multiple......I tend to crash.....

if you crash a lot ....... be safe and just buy the stock size battery . when your riding gets better then you can go to the next step and save weight . these skis dont have big charging systems
 
Top Bottom