Making of the SNX Hull

Ducky

Ducky

Back in the game!
Location
Charlotte, NC
txsuperjetfreak96 said:
Theres a few vids on youtube of guys going through those harbor freight guns, replacing the plastic gaskets they use with orings, and other areas
Click to expand...

Yea, you need to fully disassemble those guns, and clean everything! There is grease everywhere...but one you go that, I have heard they work great. We bought one, and fully rebuilt it and cleaned it but never got around to using it.
 
jeastes1

jeastes1

Location
clark lake, MI
Quality makes a difference for clears mainly, and matallics. Usually for color I run the fluid all the way open, and close the pattern just slightly. I spray water based for the last three years, it's thicker than solvent, you can hammer it on with out running it. Usually if it's not going on wet enough close the pattern a touch. If you gun is sputtering it probably has a bad seal some where.
 
Vumad

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
I use a $40 hvlp gum from home depot. I have limited experience with such things. Ive only used it for pva, rustolium, polyurathane clear and behr stain. I cant afford the best but i try to avoid harbor freight for certain things like paint guns.
 
Nate_D

Nate_D

Location
Houston, TX
I have two of the HF guns. One Version works decently, the other is loaded with sealant goop. Everywhere. Exact same guns, different model and clearly assembled at a different factory. It's basically trash. I've tried to clean it out. Not worth the effort. TCP global guns are the same exact design and have support for other tip sizes. I have one for primers and gelcoats and one for base/clears. I am thinking about picking up a good clear gun and a new cheapo primer. The iwata supernova sure does look sexy....


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Nate_D

Nate_D

Location
Houston, TX
Its just hard to justify it for composite work. Most of the clears I shoot are in mold. As long as it doesn't fisheye or run, I can lay down the worst clear job since the mold determines the finish.

What do you use to compound and polish out your work? I've been trying different compounds/polishes and techniques. M105/205 has been the best for me so far. This is about as shiny as I can get the surfacing primer.

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Jakobi86

Jakobi86

When I sprayed gel coat I used a harbor freight gun that I threw away when I was done. My decent good gun for clear/ base and single stage is a finex. I've almost gotta believe whatever you spray, you'll be able to machine polish out to a perfect gloss. I used that same stuff you have pictured, heavy cut, medium cut and then a swirl remover and can get a good gloss finish I most any paint surface. I've noticed you really have to pay attention to when the heavier cut turns into a buffing compound (after its worked and turns into more of a polishing compound) and how dry you let it get as well as the pressure you apply with the buffer. Now keep in mind all this is with a power rotary buffer. Not sure if your doing all your stuff by hand, but if you are, I'd say there's a lot to gain by going to a power buffer


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Nate_D

Nate_D

Location
Houston, TX
I'm using a random orbital with a cloth pad and a da polisher with a medium and finishing pad. For whatever reason (technique I'm sure), the random orbital with the cloth gives better results for compounding. It cuts faster and smoother than the DA with the medium pad. Probably technique with the DA is lacking, because from what everyone has said the DA should be giving me better results. I use a finishing pad and the 205 on the DA to polish. Pretty good results on the pole. Not show car finish good, but well beyond what I need to pull a mold with wax/PVA. The hood liner plug I will be using frekote again to release the mold. We'll see how the mold surface looks with that level of plug finish.


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Nate_D

Nate_D

Location
Houston, TX
Lots of work on the pole plug. Nothing really cool to show.

So I was right to be suspicious of my frekote... Yesterday I tried applying it again to the resurfaced hood liner plug. Something didn't feel right again. So I stripped the plug down to 2000 grit and compound and polished for the third time. This time I taped off a 4" square to test my frekote supply. Wiped it down just like I have before with the sealer and then release. Laid up a small square of epoxy and cloth in the corner and let it cure. Sure enough, it's stuck. And stuck good. I am going to have to cut that corner out of the plug probably.

I am glad this wasn't the first time using frekote and I picked up on the subtle difference in the finish. I would have been pissed if I stuck my plug to my mold. Worst part of the process for something to go wrong.

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Well I guess I'm using Wax/PVA for this plug. Hopefully I can get a new supply of frekote in time to have parts finished by Friday.




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Nate_D

Nate_D

Location
Houston, TX
It gets really humid in my converted garage due to a vent leak on the dryer. We ran the dryer almost all day last week and the room was very hot and humid. Just my guess. It's pretty disappointing and concerning that frekote could go bad so easily. Makes me question whether it's worth using. One stuck part in a deck mold, thats hundreds of dollars wasted and countless hours.
 
///M5

///M5

Location
Guam
It surprised me that it went bad on you, and you just used it recently. I would be worried about using that product again also.
 
Nate_D

Nate_D

Location
Houston, TX
This has been the most challenging mold I have made. There's so many little details that you have to pay attention to, and so many extra steps.

First mold is laid up and the parting dam has been removed. I had to sand and prep the gelcoat on the flange and wax the plug again. PVA is drying.

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Also sanded out the test area on the hood liner plug. Wax and PVA release this time. Gelcoat is sprayed and the surfacing veil and 1.5oz mat is down. I'm just waiting on Soller composites to send me the new frekote I ordered. Hopefully a hood liner and pole will be done by Thursday.



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Nate_D

Nate_D

Location
Houston, TX
Decided I would try to infuse the mold for the hood liner instead of hand laying it up.

Started with surfacing veil and then 1.5oz mat. Very little bubbles were left. Allowed this to cure at room temp (75*).

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Laid up 3 layers of 35oz roving/mat. Since this is the outside of a mold, there really is no need to use any sort of release fabric. Infusion mesh went directly on top of the laminate stack and then the MTI hose and resin inlet.

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Pulled a vacuum and infused the isophthalic resin.

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This is about as close as you can get to a zero void FRP mold.


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