Super Jet Mild Pistons scoring and seize HELP

Jr.

Standing Tall
Staff member
Site Supporter
Location
Hot-Lanta
Thank you so much. Yeah my original post was about why it seizes after decceleration from wot. In cold water. But as stated in my first post i have tried to restrict the cooling for it to not overcool. All that happened was a brief seizure and then the scoring in the images happened. If i can provide anymore info for you to pinpoint the problem ill be happy to. Most of the info i have was in my first post.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The biggest problem I see is the very first event? Once that occurred, metal transferred to cyl walls.
That metal never went away, thus reducing clearance. But what is worse, is it would not support good film streangth of the oil. Additional metal continues to build up until the failure that shut you down. At the first event, you needed to tear down, address the damage, and more importantly, find the root cause?

This issue is a tricky one to identify at this point? Being its masked over. I think being lean to a degree built enough heat within the piston, to allow it to expand abnormally. That compounded by the cold water, not allowing the cyl to expand enough? I don't feel you were critically lean tho. I'm not able to identify any trace of deto in the pictures?
I recommend tearing down, and repairing the cyl. ( clearance to Oem specs). Adjust jetting to what I recommended earlier. Continue to restrict cooling water as you were doing. You were on the correct track. Monitor motors condition as you break it in, and adjust as necessary.

Keep in mind all I'm suggesting at this point is a known (to me) better jetting spec than what FPP initially recommended. You still have not identified the root cause? You will need to back track the issue until you can identify what had happened? When you rebuild the top end, make sure you do a leak down ck? Make sure there is no cooling water leaks that could "Mist" the carb intakes?
Pay attention to details
 
Thank you so much for your thorough answer. Whats the best way to go about repairing the cylinder and get it back to oem specs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thank you so much for your thorough answer. Whats the best way to go about repairing the cylinder and get it back to oem specs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Btw i forgot to mention that compression is 150 deadon in both cylinders. Wouldnt one wait with a rebuild until compression is atleast a little down?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Location
Stockton
Btw i forgot to mention that compression is 150 deadon in both cylinders. Wouldnt one wait with a rebuild until compression is atleast a little down?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

NO! What can happen next is like zzylstra mentioned, catch a ring on the metal, break the ring land and top
Of piston, the broken metal will
Go down into the case and can get caught between case and the crank and bust out or crack out the bottom
Of your case, can break your cylinder sleeve too and put metal
In your crank bearings.
 
NO! What can happen next is like zzylstra mentioned, catch a ring on the metal, break the ring land and top
Of piston, the broken metal will
Go down into the case and can get caught between case and the crank and bust out or crack out the bottom
Of your case, can break your cylinder sleeve too and put metal
In your crank bearings.

Crap. Damn. Sounds like i have to pull the motor and get this sorted asap!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The biggest problem I see is the very first event? Once that occurred, metal transferred to cyl walls.
That metal never went away, thus reducing clearance. But what is worse, is it would not support good film streangth of the oil. Additional metal continues to build up until the failure that shut you down. At the first event, you needed to tear down, address the damage, and more importantly, find the root cause?

This issue is a tricky one to identify at this point? Being its masked over. I think being lean to a degree built enough heat within the piston, to allow it to expand abnormally. That compounded by the cold water, not allowing the cyl to expand enough? I don't feel you were critically lean tho. I'm not able to identify any trace of deto in the pictures?
I recommend tearing down, and repairing the cyl. ( clearance to Oem specs). Adjust jetting to what I recommended earlier. Continue to restrict cooling water as you were doing. You were on the correct track. Monitor motors condition as you break it in, and adjust as necessary.

Keep in mind all I'm suggesting at this point is a known (to me) better jetting spec than what FPP initially recommended. You still have not identified the root cause? You will need to back track the issue until you can identify what had happened? When you rebuild the top end, make sure you do a leak down ck? Make sure there is no cooling water leaks that could "Mist" the carb intakes?
Pay attention to details

Jr, sorry to keep asking but your input is invaluable for me at this time. Ill jet the motor based on your specs above with one turn out on both hi and lo as a starting point. But what the best process of tuning. And in what order. Im afraid to mess it up again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Jr.

Standing Tall
Staff member
Site Supporter
Location
Hot-Lanta
Jr, sorry to keep asking but your input is invaluable for me at this time. Ill jet the motor based on your specs above with one turn out on both hi and lo as a starting point. But what the best process of tuning. And in what order. Im afraid to mess it up again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Contact me back at the email addy in my sig block once you have motor repaired and I'll help you thru the tuning process


Thank you! That sounds pretty straight forward! I see sbt has a topend kit with a rebuild core. Is that any good?





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Stay away from the SBT kit


Disassemble your top end and take it to a local machine shop to acid clean the alum deposits on the bore. Have them then do a very quick hone so they can measure the cyl bore to reliably examine condition? If bore is still within Oem spec, purchase new Oem, or equivalent Pistons ( Pro-x as a substitute) if not, acquire new .50 overbore pistons, and have shop bore to spec, fitting Pistons to each bore. Assemble and pressure ck
 
Contact me back at the email addy in my sig block once you have motor repaired and I'll help you thru the tuning process





Stay away from the SBT kit


Disassemble your top end and take it to a local machine shop to acid clean the alum deposits on the bore. Have them then do a very quick hone so they can measure the cyl bore to reliably examine condition? If bore is still within Oem spec, purchase new Oem, or equivalent Pistons ( Pro-x as a substitute) if not, acquire new .50 overbore pistons, and have shop bore to spec, fitting Pistons to each bore. Assemble and pressure ck

Great! Thank you. Will do that. Within specs is 81-81.10, right?
fd9147214ff19fdc17a0bec8b5291bdb.png




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
My FX1 Did the something. Ran great till it was hot then it would just die randomly and fire right back up. It ended up being a chipped crank bearing.
 
Hey guys. I ordered new prox 81.50 pistons. I'm wondering if there is anything i need to tell the cylinder service shop or is it all self explanatory?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Flash-FX

No Square..No Round..FX-1
When you remove the flywheel cover, take a look in there for excessive gunk (fuel oil mix,black & gooey). That is a tell tale sign that the crank seal(s) are leaking. This can haunt you with on going "mystery" seizure issues. Normally, bad/leaking seals can lead to a engine run-away...which for a first timer is a pretty scary event. Do the things mentioned above and take JR's advice to pressure check the motor assembly after you go through all this work! My motors never last 7 years before the cranks get sloppy, seals start leaking, and its time for new. $.02
 
Im confused. Should i say 81.50mm plus .0045" ? Or have them measure the piston and add .0045"?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bring your pistons with your cylinder to the machine shop and request they bore the cylinder so it has .0045 piston to cylinder wall clearance (4 and a half thousands of an inch). They will know what that standard term means.
 
Last edited:
When you remove the flywheel cover, take a look in there for excessive gunk (fuel oil mix,black & gooey). That is a tell tale sign that the crank seal(s) are leaking. This can haunt you with on going "mystery" seizure issues. Normally, bad/leaking seals can lead to a engine run-away...which for a first timer is a pretty scary event. Do the things mentioned above and take JR's advice to pressure check the motor assembly after you go through all this work! My motors never last 7 years before the cranks get sloppy, seals start leaking, and its time for new. $.02

Hej Flash-FX. Removed the flywheel cover and it smelled strongly of gas in there. See images is that excessive gunk? Havent pressure tested yet.
cd54fadddfb3c5cb591e18480e5bb351.jpg
d453c7c95de6de8932008d54eef72682.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
a984e3fb0999133bff00e1bc99d095db.jpg
2e16b6152a35d810f79491bb958221f4.jpg
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom