More Billet !!! 701 Ignition Covers

oxnard111

Creative RE Purchasing
i've only been into yamahas for about 3 years, but I have never encountered a STOCK flywheel setup that utilizes a washer under the bolt. I've had my hands on about 20 yami engines in that time period.

Does your flywheel specifically call for the use of a washer?
 
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Really dont know but the washer looks to go with this bolt,it may have been the type where the washer wont come off the bolt Ill have to check.this is the FW bolt Ive used on this motor for awhile.It was first used when I got it with a mrd FI system,the fuel pump ran off it with a b1 style cover kinda like the bolt they used to run the oil pump. I never thought any thing of it because it worked with a solid oem type front cover afterwards as well
 
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OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
I dont think these type cranks can walk with the 3 pin locks they have.

What about thermal expansion? That would explain why it clears on assembly and then contacts later, that extra space has to be there on the OEM ones for a reason, those crazy japanese engineers. :biggrin:
 
just guessing here, but that extra space was probably there for oil injection setups, but the recess was probably left there and the hole covered on the non-injection models.

Itwould have been very easy for them to fill the mold for a flat finish cover,Im thinking it was left there as cheap insurance
 

Flash-FX

No Square..No Round..FX-1
Flash,the rad FW had been working great with the ring gear pins you put in it,It timed out very close to true TDC as well.I used the timing light with digital advance and rpm buttons so you could read it. I used 25 deg as static at 2000 and tested the msd enhanser at high rpm and was getting 4 deg retard out of it. It ripped hard off idle,I was running half 110 and half 93 in the flats to tune and 100% 93 oct in surf and it was fine,plugs looked great as well as piston tops and plugs.

That's good news, I wish I could have used that one (flywheel)with the Advent CDI.

Just loose that washer and change that bolt with the slot and you'll be back in action.

Once again Dangerboy, great job on those covers! I love mine!
 
good freakin grief.removed the FW bolt and replaced with another,used a nylon rope with a hardened burnt end to go into cylinder to hold the motor,freakin 1/2 inch got choped off in one of the ports and now its down in the crank and wont let it turn over,it just never ends...........sigh
 
good freakin grief.removed the FW bolt and replaced with another,used a nylon rope with a hardened burnt end to go into cylinder to hold the motor,freakin 1/2 inch got choped off in one of the ports and now its down in the crank and wont let it turn over,it just never ends...........sigh



:censored:

somone needs to come up with a tool that screws down into the spark plug holes and prevents teh motor from turning over for this EXACT reason....

I snagged a ring doing this exact same thing once...
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
I don't think the tops of the pistons would support that much centralized force, even if it was sized correctly to contact both pistons at once.

I use the Ampro T75520 AC Clutch Spanner Wrench. It's a $10 AC clutch service tool that has the 3 bolt pattern and a short handle. It bolts to the flywheel and can be used to prevent it from turning while torquing. The handle is pretty short but it stops up against the bed plates and holds up well enough to 80 ft/lbs.I have used it a few times now without any problems, I don't know if it puts too much strain on the keyway or not but i have never sheared a keeper yet.
 

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wsuwrhr

Purveyor of the Biggest Brapp
I don't think the tops of the pistons would support that much centralized force, even if it was sized correctly to contact both pistons at once.

I use the Ampro T75520 AC Clutch Spanner Wrench. It's a $10 AC clutch service tool that has the 3 bolt pattern and a short handle. It bolts to the flywheel and can be used to prevent it from turning while torquing. The handle is pretty short but it stops up against the bed plates and holds up well enough to 80 ft/lbs.I have used it a few times now without any problems, I don't know if it puts too much strain on the keyway or not but i have never sheared a keeper yet.

Good man.

FYI:The keyway is designed for location(timing) only. Keys are not designed to handle loads, that is what the taper is for.
 
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oxnard111

Creative RE Purchasing
in addition, I've been told you could bend a crank rod if you put enough force on top of the piston. I've been told the 'ol rope trick is only for a last ditch effort on a race day.
 
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yamanube

This Is The Way
Staff member
Location
Mandalor
in addition, I've been told you could bend a crank rod if you put enough force on top of the piston. I've been told the 'ol rope trick is only for a last ditch effort on a race day.
I think the combustion puts more force on the top of the piston than the rope. If you think about it no matter how centralized the pressure on the piston is it will put the same amount of pressure on the crank due to them being connected by the wrist pin correct? It seems (to me) holding the flywheel to remove the coupler (for example) is actually worse than using a rope because it puts all that force directly to the taper (or your keyway if your taper is hashed), IMO the connecting rods are probably mechanically stronger than the threads on the coupler or the taper on the keyway.
 
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OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
Even if you are using a coupler tool and transfering all that torque thru the crank assembly, it's still only 80 ft/lbs which is nothing compared to a running stocker, much less a built engine.

Answer this, when tightening the flywheel bolt, where is the most stress put? The bolt shoulders contact the flywheel and draws the flywheel and crank together, the rotational force is between the face of the flywheel and the bolt shoulder itself. Hold the flywheel from rotating and the only force applied to the crank (and taper) should be the draw into the hub.
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