My experience with a Hooker

Location
Ohio
I went from a 13/16 cutback to a 10/16 cutback hooker and they were damn near 100% the same.

The 13/16 was in a stock cone/85mm nozzle set up.....the 10/16 was in a short cone/80mm set up but that does not matter because those 2 things produce the exact same effect IMO....but thats no new news...
 

Octane_114

LeT tHe gOOd tImEs RoLL
Location
Charleston S.C.
I do not see how some of the guys here that are running Big Lameys (Gil) are getting by with a 9/15. Seems like they are probably blowing through their power band so quick that they are actually loosing out on power transfer. Basically just punching holes in the water, Not talking about cavitation, pushing water through so fast that they are actually loosing thrust. I know that sounds weird, kinda hard to describe what I am thinking.

BK,
on your impellers do you run a polished or satain finnish?
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Little update to this thread. After several years of barely riding I started to wonder about how my ski would do with a 9/15. Some of you will remember I traded my perfectly good 10/16 Hooker to Skibum. Yeah, big mistake....... Well, A year ago I picked up a solas big hub that was repitched and cut to the same specs as the Hooker 9/15. I did not like how it ran. Not sure if a Hooker 9/15 would have the exact same feel. So, I sold that prop. Picked up a trashed 9/15 and had Dave at IMPROS repair and repitch it to a 9.5/15.5. Going to see how it works out. Stay tuned for warmer weather.
 
that would be interesting as i run a 9/15 and was thinking of trying a 10/16 but worried about spending and not gaining anything !
 
I have been contemplating trying my Skat 14/18 small hub with my pump stuffer to see if there is any noticeable difference between that and the Hooker 9/15 currently installed. The Hooker seems to do well, but with nothing other than a severely worn out stock lump of aluminum to compare it to, I have no idea what to expect. Impros has mentioned on their tech info section that the small hub stainless impellers have some great advantages due to the amount of surface contact with the water. The big hub as I understand it help create pressure but have clearly have much less surface contact. This is where I wonder if a pump stuffer with a small hub would benefit with pressurizing the most volume and have the least cavitation...make sense?
 

Rushford_Ripper

Site Supporter
Location
New York
Old thread I know but kind of in the same position with impellers.

Dave recommended a hooker 10-16 for my stock 750sxi and I am wondering if it would be better suited in my sxr with wet pipe and lightened flywheel, then throw the old skool skat 9-17 into the sxi...

What do you guys think? I think the stock impeller is in the sxr now and really like the way it rides overall but if I can improve that a bit, it would be worth it.
 
I pulled this off of the Group K site... "A Skat Trak variable pitch stainless steel impeller will be a mandatory modification for all Group K 750 kits. We recommend a 9'-17' pitch for the 750 SX, and a 12-20 custom for the Xi & SS (SX engines fitted with a lightweight flywheel will require a 10'-18')." & "The stock rev limiter on all early 750's is set at about 7200 rpm. The stock "big pin" 750 ignition's limiter comes in at about 8000 rpm."

I have only tried a 750 Kawi once and found that it was more race oriented than freeride capable. That said, to me, I would opt for a low pitch swirl on the 750 to drop off some top end and build better holeshot. If your ski has the higher rev limit then the lower pitch swirl design would def be the way to go in my opinion. You should get much better holeshot and most likely will not be bouncing off the limiter unless you get unhooked. Save the 10/18 for the lower rev limit if that is the case. I had a 10/18 Skat on my old 650sx and loved it. Great all around performance with a very noticeable increase in holeshot response. This was of course going from the stock aluminum impeller though. These are your stock 750 impeller pitches, it appears they are all aluminum. Only the SXR had stainless it seems, and if I recall, it was a 13/18 swirl design.

750 Sxi Pro
98-02
9/17

750 SXi
95-96
9/17

750 SX
92-95
14/19
 

Rushford_Ripper

Site Supporter
Location
New York
Good info, but the intention of this ski is for bouys/carving and "racing" around, not for freestyle which is what most people are looking for. I do care more for mid range and top speed. The sxr is used mainly as a rec/surf ski and the 750sxi will be inland lake riding.
 
Oh, that changes everything, go for a mid way to the highest pitch then. The 14/19 in my opinion is good providing it is aluminum because the added flex will act more like a 14/~17-18. Those aluminum blades flex a surprisingly large amount. If going with stainless, stay slightly lower at the 13/18 but opt for a slimline. Don't quote me on this but I believe the reason being with a swirl, as to my observation, the blade peaks further forward and then rounds out toward the back of the impeller somewhat like a boat prop. The slimline stays constant right to the square outer edge giving the longest surface for water contact. Too much pitch will work the engine too hard resulting in some disappointment for lack of all ranges...unless the motor is hopped up enough to support the demands.
 

Rushford_Ripper

Site Supporter
Location
New York
Another variable.....motor is staying completely stock with exception of Ocean Pro flame arresters, twin carb big pin (silver motor).

I believe that I will run the 10-16 hooker in this and leave the sxr alone.
 
That's a great impeller, not going to be a top speed record breaker but will definitely get you out of the hole very nicely. I wouldn't think you will be hitting the rev limit too much either since I believe you have about 8k available to you. What about intake grates? Are you planning on running the stock grate? If so, and it has a third rung in the middle, cut it out and go with only two. When I modified my old 650 stock grate, it didn't have a third rung, so I just sharpened the bottom edge to help pull in the water a touch more, and opened up the area at the rungs like a wide mouth pop can. It was actually a nice little improvement and helped it stay hooked up a little better.
 
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