- Location
- South Florida
ncbrock's Gulf Tribute stunt hull kit assembly
- Thread starter McDog
- Start date
mmmm.... Look at that sexy devil puttin the hood back on!
I agree on the leaping thing. When I rode my 750 and SJ (which had the same pump, engine, etc. in it), I would always approach the wake with some speed to get more air. With this ski, you just slowly approach the wake, give it the beans, and you go so much higher. My normal ski was a flatdeck last year and the wide stance does take some getting used to. You're more stable but you initially overcompensate your weight in turns. Since my last ski was so wide normally, going to the stunt wasn't much of a change for me but I do think it will take a little time for most people.
I agree on the leaping thing. When I rode my 750 and SJ (which had the same pump, engine, etc. in it), I would always approach the wake with some speed to get more air. With this ski, you just slowly approach the wake, give it the beans, and you go so much higher. My normal ski was a flatdeck last year and the wide stance does take some getting used to. You're more stable but you initially overcompensate your weight in turns. Since my last ski was so wide normally, going to the stunt wasn't much of a change for me but I do think it will take a little time for most people.
Why? You planning on using something massive?
- Location
- Raleigh NC\Lake Jordan
no, I have something massive! im using this generic k&n drycharger thats about 6 inches tall.
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LOL That's what I was afraid of. There isn't a lot of dust in the air over water compared to roads and dirt so air filtration is less of an issue in boats but fire is a more serious issue. The purpose of the flame arrestor is to extinguish the flame and prevent the spread of fire in the event of a backfire. The paper or cotton air filter would actually assist the flame in spreading.
- Location
- Raleigh NC\Lake Jordan
is that big hunk of metal with all the parts layed out the battery box plate? seems to be a lot of extra metal on there and the threads seem pretty close to the edge
The forth pic of the side of the hood.l have the same crack in the same place??? That is Highroller consistency and quality!!!
- Location
- South Florida
I checked it and the holes actually do line up. It is a heavy mo fo though.
- Location
- South Florida
I see a LOT of body work in your future if you want it to look nice, but we all knew that up front. Everything does seem solid though. Waternut got his looking nice amazingly fast and I'm sure he can give you some great advice on the bodywork.
I suck at it myself. I can't even spackle a wall right. I know I lay it too thick and sand too much, but I can't seem to get right no matter what I do. I can paint fine but have to pay someone to mud/spackle for me.
Yea,we all knew the stunt would need some TLC.But you can polish a turd.............
- Location
- Raleigh NC\Lake Jordan
why wouldnt the battery box just come with 4 seperate inserts? wouldnt that cut weight a lot, or would it not be strong enough? Im not sure how well i can polish turds, it will be my first time doing anything.
YAY BODY WORK!:rant:
YAY BODY WORK!:rant:
- Location
- South Florida
It would be plenty strong enough but 4 holes in one plate was easier I'm sure. You could even epoxy the battery box straight to the hull with no inserts.
Both true points. I chopped the excess ends off of my plate and just glassed it to the hull. If you really want to be anal you could cut the plate into 4 small squares and glass them individually to save weight but I don't think you'll save enough to make it worth the effort.
Body work is cake if you have the right tools but an arthritic nightmare if you don't. Best of luck to you... In fact, the body work was the easiest part for me.
- Location
- Raleigh NC\Lake Jordan
I have some assorted hand sanders and whatnot but no air tools. no bondo\filler experience. this whole build is an experience actually. I got time during the week though, school is nearing the end I have no work to do so as long as its light outside its work time.
Hand tools will work fine.You don't really need to have a bunch of air tools to do well. Plastic filler is somewhat like drywall thinner coats means less sanding.Grezsky on the forum knows how to prep and paint one.You ought to pm him.l think he would give some good advise.
customride0105
Site Supporter
- Location
- sterling va
i actually didnt use any body filler on my hull... did everything by hand easyest way to get something stright is by hand you can get it close with a sander...
i spent a full day working on my hoods. just preping them for paint. i had cracks.. theres something in the middle dont konw what that was and actually if you look down the hood.. the lines arent stright on the one side the curve in at the end i think on the rt side of the hood where it meets the ft of the hull... yeah i noticed that lol..
great product called fiberall. its got strands of fiberglass in it just like tiger hair but sands smooth like topcoat. and is strong as crap. for the hood i actually sealed the hood like mcdog did and the ft where the 2 peices meet at that looks ugly asshell. i filled that in with some t211. and went over that with some fiberall.
i didnt use any thing on the hull witch i should have but id be still wroking on it.. first sanded the gel coat down. primed the crap out of it blocked that and was done and you can seen how mine turned out..
i spent a full day working on my hoods. just preping them for paint. i had cracks.. theres something in the middle dont konw what that was and actually if you look down the hood.. the lines arent stright on the one side the curve in at the end i think on the rt side of the hood where it meets the ft of the hull... yeah i noticed that lol..
great product called fiberall. its got strands of fiberglass in it just like tiger hair but sands smooth like topcoat. and is strong as crap. for the hood i actually sealed the hood like mcdog did and the ft where the 2 peices meet at that looks ugly asshell. i filled that in with some t211. and went over that with some fiberall.
i didnt use any thing on the hull witch i should have but id be still wroking on it.. first sanded the gel coat down. primed the crap out of it blocked that and was done and you can seen how mine turned out..
Not sure how you got away with not using any filler. Can't sand something smooth that isn't there. I has some large holes that needed to be filled with a form of bondo hair and then a lot of other stuff where there were little holes or sharp edges had to be filled as well. Sanding only removes high spots.
I noticed the hood isn't perfectly straight as well. Nothing but the best ya know... Now look down the sides of the top deck. You should see a nice crease where the tray starts on the left side. I didn't notice this until I had already painted it.
- Location
- South Florida