New 750 x2 build

derekshep · Jan 24, 2014

ngerk said:
Man! You sure are moving fast! I just pulled a ZXI motor for my X2 the other night. Did you pull the e box out and say omg that thing is massive? Have you tried to put the spark arrestor box on the carbs yet? Just wondering how it will fit. I'm thinking it will hit the hull a little bit.

I used the Ebox from the zxi it is big but fits nice where the oil tank was, and I took the brace out on the carb side. The bottom fits but the top needs the corner cut off off it. I'm going to change to two cone spark arresters. Need with the wires let me know. There's only 7 extras not used

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ngerk · Jan 24, 2014

I figured I'll just cut the spark arrestor box where it needs it and use it for time being but also figured going to cone style would look nicer and be less clutter. If you could give me the rundown on the wires that would be awesome if you already had it all figured out. I haven't attempted messing with it yet but was planning on doing so possibly tomorrow. Also, did your trim set up end up working good? I know you technically won't know until you get in the water with it. I was going to do a homemade set up but came across an X2Guy unit for sale and got it.

derekshep · Jan 24, 2014

Cut temp wires off and unplug inside Ebox

Cut grey, black/brown, one white, and and red off and unplug inside

Use the white and black for kill switch

Use the yellow/red and red/black for the start

I also cut about 3' off the stator wires and hooked them back up

Leave the trim fuse in or it won't turn over (took it out thinking I wouldn't need it and it wouldn't turn over)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

derekshep · Jan 24, 2014

Trim should work fine, only issue in the water is I might have to let if for a second then trim up and hammer back on

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ngerk · Jan 24, 2014

derekshep said:
Cut temp wires off and unplug inside Ebox

Cut grey, black/brown, one white, and and red off and unplug inside

Use the white and black for kill switch

Use the yellow/red and red/black for the start

I also cut about 3' off the stator wires and hooked them back up

Leave the trim fuse in or it won't turn over (took it out thinking I wouldn't need it and it wouldn't turn over)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks so much! I really appreciate it. I don't have to worry about finding a diagram or tracing stuff now; you made it easy. I definitely wanted to shorten the stator wires...they are waaaay too long.

ngerk · Jan 24, 2014

derekshep said:
Trim should work fine, only issue in the water is I might have to let if for a second then trim up and hammer back on

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah same here. I'm sure it'll be easy to get used to. Hydraulic system would be nice if they weren't so much $$$.

derekshep · Jan 24, 2014

Yeah mine have been shortened this much

I left about 10" of slack for moving the box around

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

derekshep · Jan 24, 2014

ngerk said:
Yeah same here. I'm sure it'll be easy to get used to. Hydraulic system would be nice if they weren't so much $$$.

If you flip the trim nozzle and use cable straight to it you won't have that issue cause it would be pulling instead of pushing

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ngerk · Jan 24, 2014

derekshep said:
If you flip the trim nozzle and use cable straight to it you won't have that issue cause it would be pulling instead of pushing

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe so. The trim system I bought is made to work with the set up like it is (pushing) so probably wouldn't work so well. I just trimmed that piece off the inside of the nozzle that sticks out (like a tab) so it could tilt up as much as I wanted it to. I feel like changing the nozzle would still feel the same but I'm not sure. I thought people only flipped the nozzle to get more uptrim, though trimming the tab also fixes that. Also, if you flipped the nozzle wouldn't you have to how to cables exit the hull?

derekshep · Jan 24, 2014

ngerk said:
Maybe so. The trim system I bought is made to work with the set up like it is (pushing) so probably wouldn't work so well. I just trimmed that piece off the inside of the nozzle that sticks out (like a tab) so it could tilt up as much as I wanted it to. I feel like changing the nozzle would still feel the same but I'm not sure. I thought people only flipped the nozzle to get more uptrim, though trimming the tab also fixes that. Also, if you flipped the nozzle wouldn't you have to how to cables exit the hull?

Install a bilge pump and get rid of the stock bilge then use that line to run your cable in to the back. Mount a bracket to hold the cable beside the pump and hook the cable up.

I was going to go this route but decided to try my way first. If it won't push up good I will flip it and do this other method

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

derekshep · Jan 24, 2014

Got the bilge switch and primer mounted and hooked up.

I got a buddy of mine welding and tapping stock pipe to dry it out. All I got left inside is to mount the pipe and hook water to it and to my pissers.

So now it's time to clean the ski off and wet sand the top and paint it. Then my turf. And wait couple months to ride.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ngerk · Jan 24, 2014

Yeah I have an electric bilge but still have the stock in as well. I think mine will be fine for now. Anything is better then the stock selector and barely going past neutral position haha.

derekshep · Jan 24, 2014

ngerk said:
Yeah I have an electric bilge but still have the stock in as well. I think mine will be fine for now. Anything is better then the stock selector and barely going past neutral position haha.

Yeah, I just don't like buying if I can make lol. Plus owning my shop and dealing through Sbt helps a lot.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

derekshep · Jan 24, 2014

Laying the top paint