- Location
- Central PA
Bookmarked, thanks!
New SJ Owner With Questions
- Thread starter Joshbot007
- Start date
- Location
- Central PA
So this thread has been full of negative news but I finally have some good news to report!
It looks like I found a hull! Not super pretty paint wise but the glass appears to be in very good condition. I will hopefully be picking it up on Friday. Is anyone interested in my old hull? I may consider giving it away to someone who has a cool project planned
AND... my starter came in and the motor fired right up! The motor needs less than a second of cranking to restart! Compression was 140on front 139on rear (sh*tty old gauge so it could be off but they were consistent). Only thing that has me a little confused is the charging. I put my test leads on the battery when I started it up it the meter was bouncing up and down so fast I couldn’t read it, my meter was a true panic attack until I stopped the motor. It was as if it was getting AC voltage but then I put the meter on AC and the same thing. I checked the voltage before, started it up for say 20-30 seconds, and the voltage did rise .2v after I shut it off. I just think its a little odd, usually with stuff I can put my test leads on a battery and when the motor starts you see it go from 12ish to 13+ indicating that it is charging. Has me wondering why this is different, I want to say rectifier and regulator instead of stator, has anyone had a problem like this? Is it some weird normal marine thing? Last thing I want to do is cook a new battery once I buy one. I mean the voltage did rise so It appears to be working but maybe not correctly.
Thanks!!!
It looks like I found a hull! Not super pretty paint wise but the glass appears to be in very good condition. I will hopefully be picking it up on Friday. Is anyone interested in my old hull? I may consider giving it away to someone who has a cool project planned
AND... my starter came in and the motor fired right up! The motor needs less than a second of cranking to restart! Compression was 140on front 139on rear (sh*tty old gauge so it could be off but they were consistent). Only thing that has me a little confused is the charging. I put my test leads on the battery when I started it up it the meter was bouncing up and down so fast I couldn’t read it, my meter was a true panic attack until I stopped the motor. It was as if it was getting AC voltage but then I put the meter on AC and the same thing. I checked the voltage before, started it up for say 20-30 seconds, and the voltage did rise .2v after I shut it off. I just think its a little odd, usually with stuff I can put my test leads on a battery and when the motor starts you see it go from 12ish to 13+ indicating that it is charging. Has me wondering why this is different, I want to say rectifier and regulator instead of stator, has anyone had a problem like this? Is it some weird normal marine thing? Last thing I want to do is cook a new battery once I buy one. I mean the voltage did rise so It appears to be working but maybe not correctly.
Thanks!!!
Last edited:
john zigler
Vendor Account
- Location
- wisconsin
Good for you finding a Hull!!
Personally I have not encountered my volt meter ever acting like you described, and we test literally 100's of machines every year here. Maybe try another meter. I do know on Yamaha you have to "rev" the throttle to get a voltage rise at the battery.
- Location
- Knoxville
Great news on the hull and engine running. I can’t help with the voltage issue either, it was hooked to a battery, right?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Location
- Central PA
Yes it was. This one has me scratching my head, maybe the regulator is bad? I would try another meter if I didn’t blow my extra junky harbor freight one up yesterday doing something else lol
Another midshaft question inbound. So my new hull is going to be a 95, I know I need a 95+ midshaft housing but what about the shaft? Can I still use my 93 shaft with my 650 and press it into a 95 housing? I read that the shaft itself is a little smaller and weaker near the coupler but this build isn’t going to be too crazy and it’s a 650, I would prefer to save as much money as possible if I can use my old shaft on a new housing.
Thanks!
Last edited:
- Location
- Lake Anna, VA
Congrats on the hull, I figured it wouldn’t be too hard to find. If you don’t want to tackle the old one, just list it as “make an offer.” People are typically fair about it. You’ll probably attract someone good with fiberglass that enjoys those projects and recapture some of your losses, or at least the midshaft.
On that note, I replaced the midshaft in my 91 with a beefier one with the grease fitting, so I’m not so sure that the bolt pattern isn’t compatible (but I’m not an expert either). The earlier ones definitely had a smaller shaft by 1-2mm, so you’ll probably need to look one that works with your shaft more than anything else.
Can’t help you with the voltage question. I’d fire mine up and see, but my engine’s out for the week. Sometimes fast moving numbers are easier to see on analog vs digital meters, so your meter may be a factor. Try putting it at a steady 2000rpm or more and see if it helps. I’m no expert on CDI and rectifier/regulator setups vs alternators and old magneto outboards. But it starts and runs well, so you’re doing pretty good. Worst case, rectifiers aren’t expensive. Good luck.
On that note, I replaced the midshaft in my 91 with a beefier one with the grease fitting, so I’m not so sure that the bolt pattern isn’t compatible (but I’m not an expert either). The earlier ones definitely had a smaller shaft by 1-2mm, so you’ll probably need to look one that works with your shaft more than anything else.
Can’t help you with the voltage question. I’d fire mine up and see, but my engine’s out for the week. Sometimes fast moving numbers are easier to see on analog vs digital meters, so your meter may be a factor. Try putting it at a steady 2000rpm or more and see if it helps. I’m no expert on CDI and rectifier/regulator setups vs alternators and old magneto outboards. But it starts and runs well, so you’re doing pretty good. Worst case, rectifiers aren’t expensive. Good luck.
- Location
- Central PA
I will try to rev the motor up and take better measurements this weekend.
I noticed that I will need the bilge hose and the coolant hose (on either side on the pump outside the hull). I did some looking and the bilge one is referred to as a “pipe” and trying to find that part number for sale on eBay has proved difficult. The other one was referred to as a “hose” but when looking up the part number I just find bags of hose 2ft long or so withe name Yamaha on it. Are these two lines special molded to a certain shape or should I just get some standard line from my hardware store and hook it up?
I noticed that I will need the bilge hose and the coolant hose (on either side on the pump outside the hull). I did some looking and the bilge one is referred to as a “pipe” and trying to find that part number for sale on eBay has proved difficult. The other one was referred to as a “hose” but when looking up the part number I just find bags of hose 2ft long or so withe name Yamaha on it. Are these two lines special molded to a certain shape or should I just get some standard line from my hardware store and hook it up?
- Location
- Lake Anna, VA
Are you talking about the rubber lines that go from the hull fittings to the pump? If so, then just good rubber lines will do, I forget the size, maybe 3/8”.
E350
Site Supporter
- Location
- Sacramento Delta
Why don't you just buy it from Partzilla.com? "Pipe" is available for $15.74 and hose is available for $11.24
- Location
- Central PA
E350
Site Supporter
- Location
- Sacramento Delta
And BTW, might as well take inventory of all the OEM little parts you want because it takes forever to get parts from partzilla.com
So, I would check with @JetManiac and @john zigler and see if they have them in stock because they are much quicker.
Personally, I try to use OEM stuff for this, because it has the flexibility that Yamaha wanted in their design. You would hate it if by turning your pump nozzle left and right a stiffer hose actually broke off the nipple of the metal pipe which goes through the hull.
But that is just me. I worry about stuff like that. And I like to do things only once if possible. And I don't worry as much when I use OEM,
So, I would check with @JetManiac and @john zigler and see if they have them in stock because they are much quicker.
Personally, I try to use OEM stuff for this, because it has the flexibility that Yamaha wanted in their design. You would hate it if by turning your pump nozzle left and right a stiffer hose actually broke off the nipple of the metal pipe which goes through the hull.
But that is just me. I worry about stuff like that. And I like to do things only once if possible. And I don't worry as much when I use OEM,
- Location
- California
The hose doesn’t turn with the nozzle. It is attached the the outlet nozzle that’s stationary.
E350
Site Supporter
- Location
- Sacramento Delta
Thank you!
john zigler
Vendor Account
- Location
- wisconsin
The "Mid shaft" it self will interchange from all years Super Jet. The earlier 650 ones did have smaller threads for the coupler is the only difference. If your original shaft is in good condition, you can use it, It will fit / work in the later housing.
- Location
- Lake Anna, VA
http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/midshaft-talk-building-rebuilding-sn-vs-rn-etc.105232/
Lots of good midshaft info here. Be sure to read fully for all the nuggets.
Lots of good midshaft info here. Be sure to read fully for all the nuggets.
- Location
- Central PA
Thanks for the link! I actually found that and read it through a few days ago but thanks!
- Location
- Central PA
Anyone know if these seals are available to buy anywhere? On the prts diagram they appear to not be called out. The only “seal” called out on the diagram appears to be the one behind the nut and is listed as a “pipe seal”. Really hope I can buy these instead of buying a whole new cable. The cable came with the hull and appears really nice besides the cracked seals. I will also need the seals for the pole side as well.
Thanks!
Thanks!
E350
Site Supporter
- Location
- Sacramento Delta
Are you talking about item #11 pipe seal? It is still available at least for our '94 SN SJ:
Last edited:
- Location
- Central PA
E350
Site Supporter
- Location
- Sacramento Delta
Ok I get it.
(I am just learning jet skis, so don't rely on me.)
But there are vacuum line caps (not plugs) which come in both poly and in rubber and in various diameters from 1/16" to 1"
So, you might try sourcing those if you are going to rebuild your steering cable.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intake-Man...751812?hash=item3f911106c4:g:GqgAAOSw0A9aM-ZR
(I am just learning jet skis, so don't rely on me.)
But there are vacuum line caps (not plugs) which come in both poly and in rubber and in various diameters from 1/16" to 1"
So, you might try sourcing those if you are going to rebuild your steering cable.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intake-Man...751812?hash=item3f911106c4:g:GqgAAOSw0A9aM-ZR
Last edited: