NO spark , elec question

[yama-doo]

94 yamaha box

we were riding last weekend after about 4.5 hours it just died , we towed it in with the other ski an found there was no spark , I swapped the other plugs out just to be sure they hadn't gone bad but still no spark ....... I figured the coil went bad so I swapped out the coil today and still no spark

I am thinking the only thing left is the CDI brain , am I correct or did I miss something????????

 

[kswiatk]

Yamahas are notorious for faulty stop/start switches. Look up some threads for testing the switch, this is most likely your issue. CDI rarely breaks at least in kawis..

 

[yama-doo]

ok I'll try testing the start stop switch tomorrow by disconnecting the black/white wire plug and see if that's it , hope so

Thanks

 

[TheBuzzard]

99% of the time a yamaha loses spark, its the CDI , unless the bendix takes the stator out. bypassing the switch is a 2 second check

 

[JetManiac]

99% of the time a yamaha loses spark, its the CDI , unless the bendix takes the stator out. bypassing the switch is a 2 second check

Respectfully disagree, much more likely to be the s/s/s or the stator. We find the oem cdi to be very reliable and that they rarely fail.

Also even if what you say is correct, you are saying to open the ebox and swap cdis first, then only if that isnt the problem after all that work to disconnect the stop harness?

 

[Blue]

I agree with jetmaniac start stop then check stator. I personally have Never seen a bad yamaha cdi yet.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

 

[yama-doo]

I have had various skis since around 88 and only every had to replace one yamaha cdi box before so I agree they are pretty solid BUT

I checked start stop switch not the issue , I am not sure how to test stator other then pulling motor and swapping it out is there a easier way?

 

[TheBuzzard]

Respectfully disagree, much more likely to be the s/s/s or the stator. We find the oem cdi to be very reliable and that they rarely fail.

Also even if what you say is correct, you are saying to open the ebox and swap cdis first, then only if that isnt the problem after all that work to disconnect the stop harness?

all diagnostics are done by checking the easy stuff first, thats the process of elimination. to check the stator you should open the box up and use an ohm meter at the connectors. if you are really lazy, you can poke the wires and check it that way, without opening the box, but i dont recommend that.

 

[augustaf]

You may check the stator with an ohm meter, specs are for 94 Yam, unless it's a raider, then the charge coil (brown to black) should be about 450 ohm. BTW, the charge or the pulser coil would be your suspect.

 

[yama-doo]

ok will try that I have to open the box again anyway if its the cdi so not a big deal (thanks for the print out instruction to )

I wouldn't think the stator because the battery would have gone dead if stator was bad but will check anyway

 

[augustaf]

Don't be confused by the funny coil names. The lighting coil charges the battery, the charge coil charges the caps in the cdi (which will fire the ign. coil) and the pulse coil signals the cdi when to fire.

 

[yama-doo]

ok here whats happened so far

I bought a cheap multi meter and found the wires as shown in diagram above but couldn't figure out how to set the multi meter (I've never used one) well instead of getting on here and asking the other day I decided to try switching the CDI brain with the MSD 650/701 CDI form the other electric box with spare engine that was removed form the B1 (was working when removed) when I plugged it up I got nothing so I opened box and rechecked wire all right still nothing, so I put old CDI back in and it spins over again but still no spark ....hummm......I decided to recheck the start stop switch this time I pulled it off the handle and when open the layand button was a little sticky about coming up but been like that, I have power on the black jumper going form that switch to the stop switch but no power going back down the black/white harness so all that should be good

So I guess my next step is to ask if someone can tell me how to set the cheap harbor freight multi-meter to check the readings for the stator , I need the simple idiots guide version

 

[TheBuzzard]

when all else fails, read the directions! is it digital or the needle type? ohms is the symbol that looks like a horse shoe , so it has to be on that. touch the 2 lead wires together to zero the meter. touching the two lead wires together and the meter reads continuity. when you test something and the meter reads nothing, thats an open circuit/broken wire.

 

[augustaf]

The meter did not come with instructions? Must have bought the Memorial Day special for $5.49. It is still useful though. Plug the black test lead into the hole marked "com". Plug the red test lead into the hole marked " V /ohm ( ohm is abbreviated with the greek omega - lg. cap).
Then turn the meter on and or turn the knob to: 2K. That means the meter can now measure from zero to 2000 ohm. Test your stator leads. Keep in mind the electric box gets its ground from the black stator lead only- which is ok apparently. otherwise the starter solenoid would not work. Be sure you turn the meter off after use, otherwise it will run down the built in battery. If checking for resistance, polarity of meter leads does not matter. If checking voltage on the 20V scale, red is positive.

 

[JetManiac]

ok here whats happened so far

I bought a cheap multi meter and found the wires as shown in diagram above but couldn't figure out how to set the multi meter (I've never used one) well instead of getting on here and asking the other day I decided to try switching the CDI brain with the MSD 650/701 CDI form the other electric box with spare engine that was removed form the B1 (was working when removed) when I plugged it up I got nothing so I opened box and rechecked wire all right still nothing, so I put old CDI back in and it spins over again but still no spark ....hummm......I decided to recheck the start stop switch this time I pulled it off the handle and when open the layand button was a little sticky about coming up but been like that, I have power on the black jumper going form that switch to the stop switch but no power going back down the black/white harness so all that should be good

So I guess my next step is to ask if someone can tell me how to set the cheap harbor freight multi-meter to check the readings for the stator , I need the simple idiots guide version

You are not listening to others advice. Disconnect the black plug (white and black wire) in the harness between ebox and s/s switch to test the problem.

 

[yama-doo]

yes it had instructions page and I read several times which confused me more . and yes digital

Ok so 2k on the dial and black wire to the "com" an red wire to the "V/ohm" I'll give it a try this after noon

 

[yama-doo]

You are not listening to others advice. Disconnect the black plug (white and black wire) in the harness between ebox and s/s switch to test the problem.

yes I did that (actual three separate times) still no spark , even went as far as checking inside the handle bar switch for problems

if when the black/white plug harness is disconnected and I still get no spark the switch is good correct?

 

[JetManiac]

yes I did that (actual three separate times) still no spark , even went as far as checking inside the handle bar switch for problems

if when the black/white plug harness is disconnected and I still get no spark the switch is good correct?

Good as far as your issue is concerned.

 

[augustaf]

now unplug the four wires from the stator which connect to the cdi inside the elec. box and check resistances (you can leave the black groundwire coming from stator connected)

 

[Quinc]

Have you checked your ground yet? Wire going from battery to engine?