Pump seal issue

catfish4767

catfish4767

Location
Lake Lotawana, MO
I am transferring my pump from my SN to a Bob gen 2 hull and having issues. I'll attach a picture of a light at the top of the pump (hull side) and you'll see light coming through on the left side. A second picture will show no light coming through. That's when the light is at the bottom (intake grate side) left. When this pump was in the SN I did NOT have this issue. It also barely took any shimming to get the shaft right.

When I put the pump in the bob I had to jump up to washers to get the shaft centered. The shims from the SN didn't even come close to the middle.

My question is since I'm using washers, is that what's cause the gap in the pump seal? Anyone have other suggestions than washer to get the driveshaft centered? This pump is giving me so much trouble my heads going to explode
 

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Schmidty721

someone turf my rails
Location
WI
Make sure you're centered to the three mid shaft mount holes and not necessarily relying on the hole positioning in the bulk head. Once the driveshaft is centered between the three holes make sure it is square to the bulkhead, both vertically and horizontally. Once all of that is good check your seal for fitment. Chances are you may need to do some slight grinding or elongating of your pump mounting bolts. Midshaft may also need to be shimmed but that step comes later.

Have you thought about starting a build thread and posting all of the questions along the way?
 
schicks

schicks

Karma Enforcer
Location
West Michigan
Schmidty721 said:
Make sure you're centered to the three mid shaft mount holes and not necessarily relying on the hole positioning in the bulk head.
Click to expand...

easy way to do this is press the intermediate shaft out of the housing and bolt the housing to the ski. Center the driveshaft in the bearing inner race.

to determine if midshaft needs shims, you need to see if the driveshaft is parallel to the bearing races top/bottom/sides
 
Yami-Rider

Yami-Rider

TigerCraft FV-PRO
Location
Texoma
schicks said:
easy way to do this is press the intermediate shaft out of the housing and bolt the housing to the ski. Center the driveshaft in the bearing inner race.

to determine if midshaft needs shims, you need to see if the driveshaft is parallel to the bearing races top/bottom/sides
Click to expand...

/\/\/\ This works, but this works even better> http://cold-fusion.pinnaclecart.com/tools/drive-line-alignment-fixture/

Yours duct shoe may not be square :confused: I have had to remove a few, not a whole lot of fun.
 
catfish4767

catfish4767

Location
Lake Lotawana, MO
I'll ask the guy I bought it from if he had any issues too. I haven't touched the shoe so I would hope it's good and square. I will get some pictures and start a build thread tonight.

I bought longer pump mounting bolts as recommended in the manual that came with the ski.
 
Fro Diesel

Fro Diesel

creative control
Location
Kzoo
schicks said:
easy way to do this is press the intermediate shaft out of the housing and bolt the housing to the ski. Center the driveshaft in the bearing inner race.

to determine if midshaft needs shims, you need to see if the driveshaft is parallel to the bearing races top/bottom/sides
Click to expand...
No, the easiest way is to order the cold fusion alignment tool. Makes getting the pump aligned so easy.

Geez i should read a little farther ahead next time.
 
JamesG

JamesG

Site Supporter
Location
Here
If it's just your pump not quite sitting flush, high strength silicone does the trick. I did it on both of my previous builds. "1 minute gasket" from Advance Auto is the easiest to get. Then if you want super strength the Yamabond black case sealant is tough as nails, but a pain to remove later.
 
schicks

schicks

Karma Enforcer
Location
West Michigan
catfish4767 said:
How long of a PVC pipe and what diameter? Thanks for the idea. Worth trying before I buy a CF tool
Click to expand...

i am unsure of the diameters off hand. Just measure the inner race diameter of the midshaft housing bearing (thats your OD for the PVC) and measure you driveshaft diameter (thats you ID of the PVC) Should be able to find something at a hardware store. I just found a piece of pvc that matched the ID and turned it down on lathe to fit in the inner bearing race. I can measure it tonight if you need me to.
 
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Schmidty721

someone turf my rails
Location
WI
Schicks while I don't disagree with your idea of using a midshaft housing and PVC, you're assuming the OP has access to a press and the ability to use it to press the midshaft out and back in correctly. Not to mention the use of a lathe.

The cold fusion tool is reasonably priced, is a fantastic design and will last for ever. A mistake on lining up the driveling will destroy your drive shaft and midshaft in no time. I say just bite the bullet and purchase the tool to have for as long as your involved in this sport
 
yurkanip

yurkanip

Location
Great Pacific Northwest
I transfered from a Square to bob gen3, and had to shim the pump a bit as well. Use Silicone as suggested on the pump seal, and it will work fine. If I recall on my build, the left side of my pump had a gap just like yours until I tightened everything down. (again, use silicone on all joining surfaces of the pump).
 
Yami-Rider

Yami-Rider

TigerCraft FV-PRO
Location
Texoma
In my opinion, you need to fix it right. It's winter time, so you can't ride anyways, silicone shouldn't be used there.
 
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