- Location
- United States
Iv read about 100 threads. They all say prep is everything. So I'm sanding the bajeesus out of it.
Rattle can paint job. Need tips
- Thread starter Scribbleheli
- Start date
I think I finished mine with 200+ on a DA sander and the appliance epoxy has held fine for years. I had some spots where it was glossy then matte if you looked closely but being white it wasn't that noticeable. If done well coupled with a decal kit it produces best value on refinishing a hull IMO.
Need a way to get that stuff in a can to apply with a $10 HF hvlp gun.
Need a way to get that stuff in a can to apply with a $10 HF hvlp gun.
- Location
- Dalhart, TX
Use a good primer/sealer. I sanded 80 through 320 before priming. If you plan on spending the money to use a high quality automotive paint next year, I wouldn't rattle can it this summer. Trust me, I did the same thing and regretted it when I had to go and sand off all the rattle can to prep for the new paint. Just leave it how it is, take the time and do it right next winter. But if you plan on just leaving it rattle canned, do the prep work so it will last longer than the summer. Good luck!
- Location
- United States
I purchased a couple cans of the Rustolum auto primer. And the appliance epoxy in black and white. Stainless wasn't available.
I was planning on repainting it after the season was over as a winter project with real paint and maybe Gelcoat the bottom. Fresh turf and footholds.
Kinda past the point of no return, I have half of it sanded. There are some spots on like the gunwals where the SMC/fiberglass has been poking through before I started sanding.
I was planning on repainting it after the season was over as a winter project with real paint and maybe Gelcoat the bottom. Fresh turf and footholds.
Kinda past the point of no return, I have half of it sanded. There are some spots on like the gunwals where the SMC/fiberglass has been poking through before I started sanding.
- Location
- sarcastomento
Read the directions on the appliance epoxy paint can. Primer not needed, It goes on thicker than the other cans. Make sure its a clean surface and you can't recoat anther layer until each coat is thoughly cured, 24hrs +. Clean with water not acetone, it will dissentagrate the exposy. I painted one thick lay on my tubby repair eight years ago and it is soild and it blends to the OEM white nicely.
bored&stroked
Urban redneck
- Location
- AZ
Your already sanded so just paint it with the cans. Ride this season and re-do next off season if it doesn't turn out great. Waste a whole $60 but get to ride. Sounds like a win to me.
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
The brush on gel coat might be cheaper.
http://www.bottompaintstore.com/fib...at-c-13581_13586.html/Brushable-Gelcoat-quart
http://www.bottompaintstore.com/fib...at-c-13581_13586.html/Brushable-Gelcoat-quart
- Location
- United States
I got 6 cans of paint at > $4 each. So I'm not out much money.
Brush on Gel does look like a good Idea later on.
Brush on Gel does look like a good Idea later on.
WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
I used appliance paint on the bottom and Krylon on the top about 6 years ago. the appliance paint still looks pretty good where it hasn't been rubbed off. The Krylon has faded a lot. It looked good when I first sprayed it though. I even wet sanded it.
I think pretty ski's are a character flaw. Ski's should be ridden hard and should look like it! I wouldn't want a paint job I'm afraid to ruin.
I have some low quality pictures of it if you'd like to see what it looked like freshly painted vs a few years old.
I think pretty ski's are a character flaw. Ski's should be ridden hard and should look like it! I wouldn't want a paint job I'm afraid to ruin.
I have some low quality pictures of it if you'd like to see what it looked like freshly painted vs a few years old.
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- Location
- United States
@WaveDemon Yeah I'd like to see pictures.
@King Kang can you link where you got those?
or was is just Ebay or someething?
@King Kang can you link where you got those?
or was is just Ebay or someething?
WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
These pictures are not the best, I pulled them off of facebook and the originals were in poor lighting when it was freshly painted. but it'll show you that it looks better than people will tell you a rattle can paint job can look.
The pics on the water are a few years after paining. you can see on the hood where the paint didn't hold up great but looks good enough to me!
The pics on the water are a few years after paining. you can see on the hood where the paint didn't hold up great but looks good enough to me!
Attachments
- Location
- United States
Perfect!
I'm Totally going for the Carbon Fiber Chameleon
I'm Totally going for the Carbon Fiber Chameleon
I've rattle canned a SN hull before. Held up fine for several years. I sanded with 120/180/220. I used primer to fill old gouges and sanded with 220. I layed it on heavy with 3 coats. Ski sat out in weather on a ramp with a cover for a few years and still cleaned up nice for sale. Appliance paint is durable as hell. I painted my shop door with it and it takes daily sun and holds up great.
- Location
- United States
My new game plan is to use the white appliance epoxy on the top.
Then cover is with the cheap chameleon vinyl wrap.
Mostly because I couldn't find a superman themed one.
But all this beautification is moot because I just kinda ruined my wetjet exhaust I was going to have welded.
I have the stock exhaust from the 6m6 I guess I can try and get to work until I can fund a protec or bpipe or whatever.
Then cover is with the cheap chameleon vinyl wrap.
Mostly because I couldn't find a superman themed one.
But all this beautification is moot because I just kinda ruined my wetjet exhaust I was going to have welded.
I have the stock exhaust from the 6m6 I guess I can try and get to work until I can fund a protec or bpipe or whatever.
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
I just repainted my round nose this week with Rustoleum appliance epoxy and redid the bottom deck on a buddy's Blaster with it too. In my opinion, best way to go hands down. I have struggled with painting my ski for 4 years now. Usually the paint stays on but the clear always fell off within minutes of being submerged. I used 220 and sanded my hull smooth top and bottom deck, took 3 cans to get a good cover, a light sanding to clean up any bumps and one, maybe 2 more cans to finish it. I tried just this month to use Napa Nason brand base coat and matching clear...worst waste of money ever. It never bonded to the hull, but cheaper Tremclad and every other rattle can paint job did. Napa won't refund me on the paint and wasted clear coat due to the paint either. Never again will I go with with Napa for anything. I tried doing it the right way with the sprayer but the results speak for themselves...over $250.00 after needing a second supply of clear coat gone to the garbage. This appliance epoxy solidifies and when cured can be sanded, very easy to do touchup repairs to. Have a look at my Napa results, then my follow up appliance epoxy cure. The last two are the appliance epoxy.
Attachments
- Location
- deland fl
some great advice right there!!
All you really need to do is clean it with wax/grease remover (409 works great), block with 320 dry then wet sand with 400, clean again then rattle can prime then paint your color/clear. If the old paint strips off easily and your not too concerned with perfection just 400 sand and paint. Make sure you get all your coats on within specified window so it's not going on dry
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