Super Jet Remove choke without adding a primer?

[daveo2k6]

I've been trying to figure out where I'm going to place the Watt Hole/rotary switch for a bilge pump I ordered and think I have it narrowed down to two options...

1. Remove the choke and put the switch in the existing hole but not sure if I need to install a primer if I remove the choke - where would I put the priming rod?

2. Hydroturf my tray, get rid of the stock plastics and just drill a hole for the switch next to either the choke or fuel selector...

I guess my guess is, can I just remove the choke without installing a primer? Is that not a good idea?

 

[SteveC]

Remove the choke and put the switch in the existing hole but not sure if I need to install a primer if I remove the choke - where would I put the priming rod?

I’ve seen someone mount the primer plunger inside the hull on the engine with a honemade bracket. Use it to start and warm up slightly before launching, and if tuned right you won’t need the primer again while riding.

 

[Quinc]

I use a small fuel line suck up a little fuel from the tank and blow it into the carb. As long as your tuning is good that should last you the weekend.

 

[mn_reeds]

Many choices - just depends on how convenient you want the switch. You could install the rotary inside the hull and just turn it on when you head out and off when done.

You could remove the choke cabling and just manually cycle it by hand the first start or do a custom mount like SteveC said. A primer would require a kit plus either removing your choke plate or tapping your FA adapter for the line and would also require a mount.

 

[daveo2k6]

Many choices - just depends on how convenient you want the switch. You could install the rotary inside the hull and just turn it on when you head out and off when done.

You could remove the choke cabling and just manually cycle it by hand the first start or do a custom mount like SteveC said. A primer would require a kit plus either removing your choke plate or tapping your FA adapter for the line and would also require a mount.

You're right, many choices. I didn't think about mounting the switch inside the hull. I am leaning towards running the pumps when I head out. I've read others doing that too.

I am just going to have to wait until the parts get in and figure it out.

 

[te4250]

How about a handlebar switch for the bilge pump instead?

 

[TheBuzzard]

I dont use primers. I use any squeeze bottle with gas to initially start my junk before I drag it to the water. Never needs anything after that. Dont but those garbage $70 bar switches.

 

[daveo2k6]

How about a handlebar switch for the bilge pump instead?

That's what I initially looked at but read too many people say they don't last. They are expensive and a pain to replace compared to a rotary switch.

I think I'll end up removing the choke, not installing a primer, and install the switch where the choke rod is.

Next thing I have to figure out is, how to remove the choke but don't expect that to be too hard

 

[te4250]

I’ve just used $5 dirtbike kill switches on the handle bar with good success. If you want to use the choke hole though you could always pull choke knob/cable and leave the butterfly in the carb and hold it closed with the hood off for your first cold start

 

[SXIPro]

How about using a water sensing bilge pump and run no switch at all? (like a RuleMate or whatever)

 

[SteveC]

How about using a water sensing bilge pump and run no switch at all? (like a RuleMate or whatever)

in the category of no switch at all, install a waterproof fuse holder, and open/close it each time you ride. Same suggestion as here: https://x-h2o.com/threads/2017-superjet-bilge-pump.202828/#post-2091695

 

[Vumad]

You don't have to remove the stock plastic to install a bilge switch, though it is easier. You don't have to turf the front if you remove the plastic.

Primer is better than Choke. Worth the change.

Having a primer pump inside the hull or priming manually sounds like a good idea, but mounting the primer plunger in the stock choke hole is a better idea. Sometimes riding conditions results in the ski dying and a situation where pumping the primer could help it get going again (and I don't mean a bad tune, fix that, I mean surf conditions, etc).

I run my bilge anytime my ski is in the water. A good battery and a good charging system and leaving the bilge going is not an issue. Given the choices of putting the bilge inside or the primer inside, I would put the bilge inside and keep the primer accessible on the water.

I myself put a primer pump in the choke hole a drilled a hole for my rotary switch between the primer and the hood latch on my superjet. That is my suggestion.

A float switch is a good alternative to a rotary switch if its inside the hull. Then you can enjoy without wasting battery if battery life is a concern and you'd never have to worry about rain water filling up your hull.

The bar mounted rubber switches are, in my opinion, the least reliable and most expensive option. The 3-position rotary switch @JetManiac sells has been the best switch I have owned by a large margin.

Don't remove the stock bilge unless you need to tube for dual cooling.

 

[wydopen]

Never ran a choke or primer..ski always starts no problem

 

[daveo2k6]

Never ran a choke or primer..ski always starts no problem

Do you start it with just the start button or do something else (i.e. "manually cycle" it or block the flame arrestor) the first time you start it?

Some others mentioned these methods for starting the motor without a choke.

 

[faceplant2]

My ski doesn't have a choke or primer either. Just use the start button-nothing else.

 

[TheBuzzard]

I dont even hit the green button until I dump some gas in the carbs unless I'm just checking to see if the damn thing is going to crank at all that day lol

 

[daveo2k6]

I dont even hit the green button until I dump some gas in the carbs unless I'm just checking to see if the damn thing is going to crank at all that day lol

Ha. Well I have a '20 and it starts consistently. Don't wanna do anything to make it unreliable. I haven't done anything to the motor so not even sure how I would get fuel into the carb without removing the black cover on top of the carb (not sure what that's called)

 

[SXIPro]

The 2-Stroke SuperJet Stock Airbox has a small Access Port screwed on top specifically for adding Primer Fuel or Spray. Read your Owner's Manual. But if it's Stock, a Choke is available for Cold Starting.

If your Ski won't start quickly after a fall and your caught by a Water Current or incoming Waves, you will wish you had an easy to reach Primer.

Also handy for Engine Water Ingestion events, where constant priming is needed to start a "wet" Engine after most Water has been cleared.

And when at a remote site(Sandbar or Island) far from your Can of Starting or Primer Fluid, when the Battery is weak...

Engine Water Ingestion event. Yes. This is why I’ll never run without a primer.

 

[daveo2k6]

Thanks for all the help everyone. I think I am going to drill a hole for the switch between choke and hood latch and eventually replace the choke with a primer kit.

Buying some turf now too

 

[daveo2k6]

Here's an easy way to install Primer Hoses into the OEM 701 Air Box without removing the Carbs and the Chokes...

View attachment 414941

Just get an AirBox Base Plate from an Oil-Injected Yamaha 701 and connect the Primer Hoses to the really convenient Oil Fittings Ta Da!

Noted! Thanks