Rickter Tie Downs, Exhaust, and Other Newb Questions

[2lick]

Yes I searched. I'm looking for debate on pros and cons to your setup.

How do you tie down your rear?

• Strap over top with towel- Stress on tray? Scratch ski?
• Thrust pump loop - stress on one pump bolt?
• Strap over and around pump seen on Blowison video - strength of both rear pump bolts but does it stress exit nozzle?

 

[2lick]

Next, an exhaust question: The exhaust exit on my XFR is so low it is physically impossible to put any hose on it that doesn't hit and rub the motor mount plates and motor mounts. Has anyone had this rub thru on their skis?

What hose are you suing to connect to the water box? Pics of it installed?

• OEM
• Aftermarket Silicone
• Aftermarket Marine grade heavy duty
• Custom multi piece with connectors and turns

For those interested in how the hull is setup, I'll take better pictures tonight but these are for reference.

 

[Brownie]

You should have a foam block under your waterbox to raise it up and keep water from back flowing into your cylinders. I used intercooler piping and couplers to connect waterbox to exhaust pipe. For tiedowns on my rickters I use fleece protectors on straps over the gunwhale. http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/fleece-sleeve-protector-2-inch/Accessories. I have a thrust boweye on the back of my ski for use with my beach cart since the pump loop wouldnt fit with my flowguard

 

[Big Kahuna]

The thrust tiedown is not designed for holding ski on a hauler or trailer. I have seen flat plate stainless steel bolted to rear pump bolts with a hole drilled in it as a tie down point.

 

[2lick]

The thrust tiedown is not designed for holding ski on a hauler or trailer. I have seen flat plate stainless steel bolted to rear pump bolts with a hole drilled in it as a tie down point.

Thanks BK. I asked Thrust for a recommendation as well and too my surprise against the disclaimer on website and obvious cons, I was told they tie down with the Thrust rear loop. I understand the need for the disclaimer, as not all skis are the same. Maybe the Rickter's have proven strong enough in this area to be a tie down... I am installing one, but plan to only use it to beach kart easily and in emergency to tow someone.

You should have a foam block under your waterbox to raise it up and keep water from back flowing into your cylinders. I used intercooler piping and couplers to connect waterbox to exhaust pipe. For tiedowns on my rickters I use fleece protectors on straps over the gunwhale. http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/fleece-sleeve-protector-2-inch/Accessories. I have a thrust boweye on the back of my ski for use with my beach cart since the pump loop wouldnt fit with my flowguard

Great info, thanks for sharing! I was lucky and had no back flow water problems in my brawler but the exhaust exit was at a different height and angle. I agree raising it up will help. I'll mock up and see how far I can raise it. Thanks for the tips on piping. That is what I'm looking into now. Fleece protectors look nice as well if I go an over the gunwale style.

 

[Big Kahuna]

I ask myself simple questions like "would this hold up for 600 miles with ski on hitch hauler? I would be afraid it would break...... I know people that use them on their trailers. I installed to eyelets (Bow Eyes) on the back corner of my freak.

 

[2lick]

@KMN Any other pics of your exhaust exit hose? In your build thread it looks like OEM. Has it rubbed through on the motor mounts?

 

[2lick]

You should have a foam block under your waterbox to raise it up and keep water from back flowing into your cylinders. I used intercooler piping and couplers to connect waterbox to exhaust pipe. For tiedowns on my rickters I use fleece protectors on straps over the gunwhale. http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/fleece-sleeve-protector-2-inch/Accessories. I have a thrust boweye on the back of my ski for use with my beach cart since the pump loop wouldnt fit with my flowguard

Any pics of what angle piping you wound up with?

 

[Brownie]

I can get you some pics in a couple hours

 

[Brownie]

Have you actually set your motor in to know if that's where the motor mounts need to be? Are you using either of the coupler spacers?

 

[2lick]

Have you actually set your motor in to know if that's where the motor mounts need to be? Are you using either of the coupler spacers?

I have not yet. I plan to mock it up tonight so I can space out some of my next glue ups. That reminds me about my other question.

Pros and Cons on preferred motor placement in slotted plates? I was told you could set it any of three positions.

• Surf - weight in nose, motor mounts all the way forward towards nose of ski (RRP supplied spacer on crank and midshaft)
• All around -weight centered, motor mounts centered (RRP supplied spacer on crankshaft or midshaft)
• Flatwater - weight rearward, motor mounts all the way toward rear of ski (no spacers)

 

[fatboyktm]

Don't be scared drill it . Just order the long boweye.

 

[MarkWalker]

Would this work for you? http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?thre...ipe-for-xscream-and-more.186334/#post-1958126

 

[Brownie]

I can't get a good picture of my exhaust from waterbox to pipe but the aluminum pipe I use does rest on the rubber part of the rear engine mount. 1 season with no issues so far. As for drilling the tray for a boweye because of the shape of the new rickter hulls I'm not sure it will work even with the long bow eye

 

[KMN]

@KMN Any other pics of your exhaust exit hose? In your build thread it looks like OEM. Has it rubbed through on the motor mounts?

I cut an OEM SJ hose to fit. This is with an RRP pipe/RRP Water box. I do have an inch thick block of foam underneath the waterbox. Can't remember if it rubbed or not but it's always been fine on this hull.

I used a rad dudes silicone hose with a b pipe and OEM waterbox 2 years ago and didn't notice any issues.

My Edge exhaust tube is a lot higher, and that hose rubs on my carbs. I had to put a foam block so the screws didn't cut into the hose.

 

[2lick]

Don't be scared drill it . Just order the long boweye.

I actually happen to have one of those but the tray is still too thick for it.

Would this work for you? http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?thre...ipe-for-xscream-and-more.186334/#post-1958126

Thank you! I saw that a while ago but never could find it again. I'm not sure if it my best option, but I'mm going to look it over. Thanks man!

I can't get a good picture of my exhaust from waterbox to pipe but the aluminum pipe I use does rest on the rubber part of the rear engine mount. 1 season with no issues so far. As for drilling the tray for a boweye because of the shape of the new rickter hulls I'm not sure it will work even with the long bow eye

Good to know! I've also decided to order a bit shorter bolts for the motor mounts to ensure there is less to rub on.

I cut an OEM SJ hose to fit. This is with an RRP pipe/RRP Water box. I do have an inch thick block of foam underneath the waterbox. Can't remember if it rubbed or not but it's always been fine on this hull.
I used a rad dudes silicone hose with a b pipe and OEM waterbox 2 years ago and didn't notice any issues.
My Edge exhaust tube is a lot higher, and that hose rubs on my carbs. I had to put a foam block so the screws didn't cut into the hose.

Thanks man, good info. I have a few options to try but may wind up ordering a OEM form JM or new in case.

 

[uwswimmer]

I use endless loop straps with a pool noodle over them for the rear tie downs. On my trailer and on my hitch hauler when I had one. Endless loop straps are nice because there are no hooks that can scratch your ski, and if it somehow comes a little loose, there are no hooks to come apart. this has never left a mark on the ski before.

 

[Ottis]

Don't be scared drill it . Just order the long boweye.

I don’t think drilling through the rear is a good idea, that’s not solid back there, upper and lower with foam in between

 

[fatboyktm]

Back edge on mine is solid , mabey that has changed.

 

[Big Kahuna]

if a void just seal it up with 5200 or epoxy.