Super Jet salvaging a b pipe & stator?

The screws on myb pipe are all broken off, is there any way of salvaging it? Unfortunately, it looks like someone has tried to repair before, so to find the center of the screw and re-tap might be difficult too, one hole is worse than the other two.

What exactly do these screws do inside the casting? Does just the screw diameter interrupt water flow, or are they turning some sort of butterfly valve or something inside? What if I put a significantly larger screw in? IMAG0444.jpgIMAG0445.jpgIMAG0446.jpg

Also, I ripped a wire off of my stator, I am going to try to re-solder it, is there a way to tell if it is making connection/stator is good? I know on lawn mower engines you can test the resistance through the stator (ohms), is there a procedure for this on ski engines? IMAG0436.jpgIMAG0437.jpgIMAG0438.jpg

Thanks.
 
The screws let water inject into the headpipe at different locations. While it does work to change the way the pipe hits, the ultimate setup is usually with 2 of the screws closed and the third partially opened. It would have been a better idea IMO to eliminate these little sticky bastards and just have the hole used sized appropriately. You'll no doubt get others that will swear differently, each to his own. I have yet to turn a screw once set-up, and again 2 are always closed..makes you wander why the hassle. No doubt marketing gimmick, just as reed spacers. Good luck getting the screws drilled out straight, yes they make oversize replacements, however they usually don't completely seal, thus causing decreased performance. Never tried to get the headpipe replaced under the lifetime FPP warranty...hmmm?

Steve
 
what two are usually closed? On my other ski I set it up according to Factory Pipe's recommendations, and I have never fussed with it from there.

Will they actually fix this under warranty?

Back to my original question, they just rely on the diameter of the screw to divert the water, there isn't any kind of washer/butterfly valve/etc that moves with that screw?
 

chriselmore_1

high on resin
Location
san jose ca
Uhhh...there's several diff ways to set up the the screws that actually make quite a difference... .
The screws let water inject into the headpipe at different locations. While it does work to change the way the pipe hits, the ultimate setup is usually with 2 of the screws closed and the third partially opened. It would have been a better idea IMO to eliminate these little sticky bastards and just have the hole used sized appropriately. You'll no doubt get others that will swear differently, each to his own. I have yet to turn a screw once set-up, and again 2 are always closed..makes you wander why the hassle. No doubt marketing gimmick, just as reed spacers. Good luck getting the screws drilled out straight, yes they make oversize replacements, however they usually don't completely seal, thus causing decreased performance. Never tried to get the headpipe replaced under the lifetime FPP warranty...hmmm?

Steve
 

chad

I pretty much love beer
Site Supporter
I ran my screws closed for years ( the bottom 2) ( and the top open 3//4)i few yearsago I tuned the pipe, and turned screws according to fpp website , and it felt like I added a b pipe to a stock engine...

hit up pardaddy for the replacement kit.
and JSS for your stator
 
Back to my original question, they just rely on the diameter of the screw to divert the water, there isn't any kind of washer/butterfly valve/etc that moves with that screw?
the scew has a type of tapered "dog point" http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/4210-F...ck-but-wait-there-s-more&highlight=bk+twister

Have you water tested it under a faucet or with a water hose? Maybe they're set ok? Below was my second attempt on a B-pipe, the first one got completely fubard and ended up selling it…this one I got lucky and is still working today… Hardest part is drilling straight down and hitting dead center. There are no references to go by, so you are going in blind…I’d suggest buying cutting oil and brand new drill bits (in this case maybe ends mills?), one will need to be more than 12” long to get to the middle screw, unless you’re using something other than a hand drill (like an air tool?) worse case leave them alone? i'm guessing a badly tuned B-pipe is still better than stock?


Check out post #18 http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/78819-I-just-stole-my-first-FX1&highlight=
 
the scew has a type of tapered "dog point" http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/4210-F...ck-but-wait-there-s-more&highlight=bk+twister

Have you water tested it under a faucet or with a water hose? Maybe they're set ok? Below was my second attempt on a B-pipe, the first one got completely fubard and ended up selling it…this one I got lucky and is still working today… Hardest part is drilling straight down and hitting dead center. There are no references to go by, so you are going in blind…I’d suggest buying cutting oil and brand new drill bits (in this case maybe ends mills?), one will need to be more than 12” long to get to the middle screw, unless you’re using something other than a hand drill (like an air tool?) worse case leave them alone? i'm guessing a badly tuned B-pipe is still better than stock?


Check out post #18 http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/78819-I-just-stole-my-first-FX1&highlight=

I was just going to ask this myself, the pipe might have one or two screws open and run fine. On the hose you can look inside the head pipe and see what's open...as others have said it is not easy drilling the screws out, the screws are harder than the cast and the drill bit loves to wander off...might be best to run it like ya stole it !

If you solder that stator and Ohm it make sure you also check all coils while wiggling the wires all the way up to check for bad wires...I once found a lightning coil that ohmed correctly until you wiggled the wires, that is why the battery was not charging, yet ohms were right on.
 
Last edited:
Uhhh...there's several diff ways to set up the the screws that actually make quite a difference... .

Didn't say they didn't make a difference, just that in my experience I usually have two of them closed. And on another thought when I want to make a fast ski I don't run a FPP, so no need to mess with screws. Honestly I'm glad you like the feature, just one of those things I feel that could have been simplified given the issues vs benefits.

Steve
 
And reed spacers have legitimate applications.

Actually very few, and stock based engines pretty much never. No doubt in some custom applications they are needed for other things than performance. Talk to Tim at Novi for his thoughts on them, he's a pretty open and knowledgable guy.

Steve
 
And back to the question, they suck to drill out squarely and what about FPP warranty, does it cover this? I never asked them personally, anyone want to make the call?

Steve
 
Last edited:
why would any warrently cover poor maintence?

I totally agree with you, but sometimes you never know unless you ask! They do have a lifetime warranty, yet we still weld our own chambers when they crack. Ya' know, maybe they are like SBT...lol!
 
Thanks for the info. I pm'd parrdaddy. I figure I don't have much to lose on the b pipe, so I might as well try it. Worse case scenario I ruin a wrecked pipe. A new headpipe from FPP is 260 bucks, I emailed them, they definitely cited seized screws as "lack of maintenance" (asking is always free, right?)

The ski runs pretty good as is, I just wanted to fuss with it while I have it apart. Can someone expand the water hose/faucet test method?

What does JSS do to stator to repair? How much will it cost me?
 
Top Bottom