Schmidty721
someone turf my rails
- Location
- WI
Teaser pics.
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Custom/Hybrid Schmidty's "I'm in over my head" SJ Based Carbon Free Ride Ski build
- Thread starter Schmidty721
- Start date
- Location
- Cheney lake Kansas
looks like your not in over your head..looks like you have made a few new parts out of car bon .. looking good !!!
chadman154
#Itsonlymoney !!!!!
- Location
- Dirty south
Impressive, good job.
Schmidty721
someone turf my rails
- Location
- WI
^^ Yes.
I picked up this hull this morning. I cannot take any credit for the work you see in post #1. Previous owner has had his SJ moulds advertised on here before. I believe hull is the only attempt at a complete layup. Bottom deck is solid and could be considered done if I didn't want to cut it up. Top deck & hood need additional layers of material.
As with my BOB build last winter, I'm going into this pretty blind. I've had a little composites experience in school but haven't worked with it since. It will definitely be a learning experience and I hope i have the patience to get through it.
I've been tossing around a few ideas on what i wanted to do for a ski next year. I knew I wanted to be back on a lighter hull and was able to make a deal on this hull, a vacuum pump and all the left over materials he had.
Plans:
Shortened rear
Shortened nose with additional rocker
Bond rail mod
Lowered hood
Wide tray with adjustable holds
If I get through that, maybe consider a pump tunnel mod and widened bottom deck but I don't expect to get to these two.
Before I can get anything started I need to build a booth in my garage so I have a place warm enough to work on it this winter.
I picked up this hull this morning. I cannot take any credit for the work you see in post #1. Previous owner has had his SJ moulds advertised on here before. I believe hull is the only attempt at a complete layup. Bottom deck is solid and could be considered done if I didn't want to cut it up. Top deck & hood need additional layers of material.
As with my BOB build last winter, I'm going into this pretty blind. I've had a little composites experience in school but haven't worked with it since. It will definitely be a learning experience and I hope i have the patience to get through it.
I've been tossing around a few ideas on what i wanted to do for a ski next year. I knew I wanted to be back on a lighter hull and was able to make a deal on this hull, a vacuum pump and all the left over materials he had.
Plans:
Shortened rear
Shortened nose with additional rocker
Bond rail mod
Lowered hood
Wide tray with adjustable holds
If I get through that, maybe consider a pump tunnel mod and widened bottom deck but I don't expect to get to these two.
Before I can get anything started I need to build a booth in my garage so I have a place warm enough to work on it this winter.
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Are we brothers ....
Schmidty721
someone turf my rails
- Location
- WI
I'll be spending some quality time browsing through your build thread for guidance.
You cant use heat to form your hull . looks like you will be foaming sanding and glassing . I can give you some measurements if my experiment works out .
x2
deftons56
Brian
- Location
- lake goodwin
x3.
Good luck either way though, hope it turns out AWESOME!
Good luck either way though, hope it turns out AWESOME!
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Schmidty721
someone turf my rails
- Location
- WI
I thought about just doing this as well.
For sure I'm going to do the mods to the rear and tray area. the top deck is nowhere close to being ready to run, so why not cut it up now and reinforce it after? Same goes for the hood, and I got two carbon hoods with it. One layup the pump failed to it's a perfect candidate for a lowered hood mock-up.
As far as cutting up a stock hull. I thought about doing that to my 07 hull, but I have about the same amount of $$ into either hull. I can sell the 07 and come out basically even. Why start with something that is 60+lbs heavier? If i'm going to go through to trouble and spend the time to take on a build like this, I don't want the finished "plug" to be that much heavier than an actual layup of the hull if it's gets to the point of splashing molds off of it. I'm hoping to end up with a ski that handles well, is strong, and still pretty light. At this point I don't really have any intention of creating molds and making more hulls.
I'm not going to dive straight into to hacking the whole thing up. I'll start with some of the easier work and see how it goes. If I enjoy it and think the work is coming out well, I'll continue to mod. I have all winter to build. I need something to keep me busy :woot:
Schmidty721
someone turf my rails
- Location
- WI
Thank you, that would be helpful.
I don't plan to take the rocker mod to the extreme like you did. If I do it, it will be closer to what other members have done.
I would be nervous to take (what seems like) a solid hull with nice carbon work, chop and patch and not have adequate construction or adhesion and end up with 3/4s of a nice carbon hull. I think that the light weight of the hull will have a more desirable ride than whatever you think chopping the nose up will. Your OEM hull may have cost the same but it is definitely not worth the same.
Schmidty721
someone turf my rails
- Location
- WI
I starting building a 12x12' enclosure in my garage around the furnace so I will be able to work through the winter and have a place warm enough for the resin to cure. This was a fun project because it was the first time I've had a place to build something like this for myself.
I scored an old furnace blower on CL for $5. I plan on using this to pull an airflow through the room and exhaust it out the back side of my garage. I will use furnace filters to filter the in coming air and plan on using a 4" HVAC filter on the exhaust air.
I scored an old furnace blower on CL for $5. I plan on using this to pull an airflow through the room and exhaust it out the back side of my garage. I will use furnace filters to filter the in coming air and plan on using a 4" HVAC filter on the exhaust air.
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Schmidty721
someone turf my rails
- Location
- WI
Started mocking up the drive train on this yesterday.
When I bought the hull, the pump inserts were in, pump shoe mounted, Bulk head in, midshaft inserts in & motor mount plates in.
I'll start with the bulk head. Is this supposed to be square to the top of the bond rail? This one is tilted towards the back of the ski slightly. I'm having alignment issues between the driveshaft & midshaft. For starters, the midshaft was mounted about 3/16" off center towards the starboard side of the ski so I've pulled those inserts already and will have to relocate them. Driveshaft location looks good in respect to being centered side-to-side. However, there is about a 1.5mm gap on the top of the midshaft/bulkhead when aligned to the driveshaft. This is what concerns me the most.
I mocked up a set of cases with the midshaft mounted in it's current location and was able to get everything aligned fairly easily. I think I will have enough side-to-side adjustment in the motor to be OK after the midshaft is relacated and centered.
Pump:
When I pulled this pump out of my 07 hull, I had to use a stack of shim on the rear to get the shaft centered. I'd say close to 4mm on the rear tabs. I put the pump in this hull and it's the same way, about 3.5mm or shimming on the rear. I transferred the reduction nozzle over to the skat mag I just picked up and it's the same way. The mag had a NEW wear ring section too so that eliminates the pump/wear ring IMO. Could the Raider reduction nozzle I'm running just be off that far compared to a stock SJ reduction nozzle? Even if I bolt the pump in tight with just the first 2 mounts, there is still about a 3mm gap between the rear tabs and hull. Pump seal seems square with the pump shoe.
I took a couple picks of the shim stacks I had to use in the 07 SJ hull.
So I guess my main question is getting your opinions on how I should address the squareness issue of the drive shaft to bulk head & midshaft. Side to side is right on the money, top and bottom are off. Can you shim the midshaft? And how about the pump + assload for shims issue? Maybe I should look for another reduction nozzle to try too?
Thanks guys
When I bought the hull, the pump inserts were in, pump shoe mounted, Bulk head in, midshaft inserts in & motor mount plates in.
I'll start with the bulk head. Is this supposed to be square to the top of the bond rail? This one is tilted towards the back of the ski slightly. I'm having alignment issues between the driveshaft & midshaft. For starters, the midshaft was mounted about 3/16" off center towards the starboard side of the ski so I've pulled those inserts already and will have to relocate them. Driveshaft location looks good in respect to being centered side-to-side. However, there is about a 1.5mm gap on the top of the midshaft/bulkhead when aligned to the driveshaft. This is what concerns me the most.
I mocked up a set of cases with the midshaft mounted in it's current location and was able to get everything aligned fairly easily. I think I will have enough side-to-side adjustment in the motor to be OK after the midshaft is relacated and centered.
Pump:
When I pulled this pump out of my 07 hull, I had to use a stack of shim on the rear to get the shaft centered. I'd say close to 4mm on the rear tabs. I put the pump in this hull and it's the same way, about 3.5mm or shimming on the rear. I transferred the reduction nozzle over to the skat mag I just picked up and it's the same way. The mag had a NEW wear ring section too so that eliminates the pump/wear ring IMO. Could the Raider reduction nozzle I'm running just be off that far compared to a stock SJ reduction nozzle? Even if I bolt the pump in tight with just the first 2 mounts, there is still about a 3mm gap between the rear tabs and hull. Pump seal seems square with the pump shoe.
I took a couple picks of the shim stacks I had to use in the 07 SJ hull.
So I guess my main question is getting your opinions on how I should address the squareness issue of the drive shaft to bulk head & midshaft. Side to side is right on the money, top and bottom are off. Can you shim the midshaft? And how about the pump + assload for shims issue? Maybe I should look for another reduction nozzle to try too?
Thanks guys
Attachments
- Location
- Minnesota
My midshaft is shimmed along with my pump so im say yes its fine