Siezed Jetski Advice

[Patentcad]

Hey guys! Although this is my first post, i have been watching this forum for a while now. So, anyway, I recently acquired a 95 SN Superjet from a friend. The ski hull is in great condition! But, being 14, I barely have much, if any mechanical experience... The ski has a Factory B pipe, a MSD enhancer, a Aluminum steering plate, and a few other mods. I began by trying to turn the ski over. Unfortunately, the wires from the MSD were all pulled, so I had to re-connect all the points. I used the manual from MSD itself, and a tutorial on this website. I found that the sheet I printed shows that the brown wire coming from the Start Stop switch, should go to ground, but if I do put it on ground, nothing happens. But if i attach it to a brown cable coming from the Enhancer, I hear a click, and what sounds like a motor trying to turn (a hum). Is this the way that the wires should be hooked up? So, thinking that the engine was seized, i began to disassemble the engine. I took off the head, to find the right cylinder completely rusted, while the left looked great. I tryed turning the crank by hand, and was able to move it a bit. Then i disassemble the cylinder. The coolant holes seem to have white baked on salt of some sort. I heard muriatic acid would work to remove this, does it? When i took the cylinder off the crank case, A whole lot of water went everywhere! Then, i was able to turn the crank! That was 2 days ago. Now, the crank is more than frozen. I believe that the water in there was acting as a lubricant. I later took off the flywheel cover, and found the only shiny thing in the engine. The gear appears to be in perfect condition! I really want to get this thing working, and i have about 500-700 to spend on it. I was later thinking tonight, that the engine would work if we simply rebored the cylinder, top crank case, and bought a new head, (is that all). Then, I plan on buying a crank with warranty from SBT, and new, big bore pistons. 1st would that work, second what bore should I go with?

Thanks Guys!!!


And i can get picks if you guys need them!!!

 

[keegan]

I would just look for a complete 701 and swap it over for now. You can find decent ones for pretty cheap around here.

 

[steveyz250fpilot]

I have a set of 61x assembled cases with good crank and 61x jugs. It was running good and had 120ish / 150ish compression in each cylinder when I pulled it from a 94 Blaster. A fresh top end would make it great.

I'd sell the cases, crank, head, rods, pistons, cylinders for 300 shipped.
The cases and crank are still assembled with rods and pistons attached.

http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/48429&highlight=61x+crank

 

[Patentcad]

Thanks for the replies! Sorry, but im not looking for an engine, the only thing thats bad is the cylinder. I got a flywheel puller, and was able to separate the cases today. The inside of the case looks perfect! My dad says that the only thing wrong with the crank is the bearings, so does anyone know where to buy bearings for the crank? And would reboring work?

 

[Etheraldreamer]

rebuilding a crank is a pia from what i have read/heard. your best bet is to get a good condition used crank on here. and while you could bore it and get new pistons and then slap it all back together with new gaskets it would be way more cost effective to just get a used good condition 61x cyl and pistons from someone. they can be had for CHEAP. it all depends on exactly what the condition looks like of your stuff what can be salvaged. what kind of riding do you plan on doing? saltwater? some pics would help everyone give you some better advice once we see exactly what you are working with.

 

[Patentcad]

Okay, I don't think I want to deal with that, nor can I find a good rebuild kit. I plan on doing saltwater riding, and just messing around, racing with friends, some tricks. I will post pictures of the ski later today.

 

[felix5oh]

you can bring the crank back to life but it wont last long. reassemble the bottom end and soak it with pure 2 cycle oil while moving it round and round with your hand. soak for a day or two. drain then install the cylinders.

use a dingleberry hone (flex hone) to get the rust off the cylinders. pop off the rings off the pistons and clean them up. clean the grove where the ring seats. use mild sandpaper to go around the pistons, round and round not up and down.




I have done this before and brought an engine back to life that was sitting in a barn for a year, but it only lasted a few months til the crank lower bearings just gave up. your damage is already done, YOU NEED AN ENGINE, but if your like me just make it last to the point of no return.

as long as you got compression, you can fiddle with spark and fuel, good luck young friend

 

[akjetpilot]

man if u want to spend your time riding , not wrenching go w SBT w your 700 dollars. then go rip it up!
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[BruceSki]

new crank, fresh pistons next size up, and fresh gaskets and rip it. right about 5-700 dollars depending on how much work you do yourself.

 

[Patentcad]

new crank, fresh pistons next size up, and fresh gaskets and rip it. right about 5-700 dollars depending on how much work you do yourself.

when u say to put a next size up pistons in, do u mean that i can drop in bigger mm pistons without having to rebore the cylinders?
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[BruceSki]

you would have to rebore. if you go to the next size.

you might be able to get away with (new)standard bore pistons again and just hone it, but you would need to measure the bore with a micrometer to make sure.

 

[Patentcad]

you would have to rebore. if you go to the next size.

you might be able to get away with (new)standard bore pistons again and just hone it, but you would need to measure the bore with a micrometer to make sure.

hmmm... how much can i get the engine rebored for?
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[BruceSki]

call your local machine shop. maybe 60 bucks a hole. maybe less?

275 for an sbt crank. 150 for pistons. 100 bucks for a bore 60 for gaskets

585 total if you reassemble yourself.


may as well do crank seals too while you are in there. they are cheap though.

 

[Patentcad]

also, could someone tell me if its worth It to buy an aftermarket head? or just go with the stock head, or buy one thats been milled?
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[Patentcad]

call your local machine shop. maybe 60 bucks a hole. maybe less?

275 for an sbt crank. 150 for pistons. 100 bucks for a bore 60 for gaskets

585 total if you reassemble yourself.


may as well do crank seals too while you are in there. they are cheap though.

275$? It says 195$ on the website?
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[BruceSki]

an aftermarket head will help your bottom end a bit.

most will suggest running a girdled head, because the cylinder will crack eventually with a high compression, Non-girdled head.

 

[BruceSki]

275$? It says 195$ on the website?
Posted via Mobile Device

wow even better... maybe prices have dropped since i last checked.

 

[Patentcad]

wow even better... maybe prices have dropped since i last checked.

yeah, thats what It says, but thats not taking into account the shipping. what do you mean when you say bottom end? what bore would you suggest? thanks moto!!
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[BruceSki]

i would take the cylinder to someone with a micrometer to measure the bore. if it has deep gouges you will need to go up to the next sized bore maybe even two sizes up. if the cylinder wall is in good shape you can hone it and use stock bore pistons.


when i say bottom end i mean low end power, like out of the hole power. not top speed, but launch i guess. hope that explains it.

 

[Patentcad]

okay, thanks. i was thinking to rebore just to get more power. i will post pics of the cylinder tomorrow, as It doesnt look that bad. i will let you guys assess It.
Posted via Mobile Device