Super Jet SN Overheating

So ever sense I did my build I have had overheating going on with my ski. I have searched around to find a answer but have not found anything. This is what is going on.

-The hose from the exit side of the water box has gotten really soft and about to burst. It has fallen off once already.

-The enter hose on the water box got so hot it split and now I have a 2 inch split in my hose.

-I did the trick to put water on the far end of the pipe to see if it sizzles off but it is so hot that it beads off.

-I melter my throttle cable on the water box

-Melted the s/s switch wires to ground out

-The ski runs fine for about 15 min then a loss of power because of the heat. Not enough for me not to ride but I can feel it.

I do have a control valve on the line from the top port in the exhaust to the end nipple on the pipe. It is set up for dual cooling.

I have a 61 top and a 62 bottom, Stock bore, dual 44's, b-pipe, ada head running 93 for the right size domes. I am riding in inland lakes so the water is little warmer then riding on the great lakes.

Now the only thing that I have seen that is different is that my T fitting so that the main flow is to the pipe and the T is going to the pisser. After looking at some pics on here I have seen that it is ran with the main flow going to the pisser and the T going to the pipe. I am sure this wont cause the pipe to get so hot but just an idea.

Let me know what you all think. I am getting upset with how much I am fixing things. It seems like every time I get in the water and ride I end up melting something so it is starting to get costly now..lol

Thank you everyone for your help in advance!

-Kyle
 
Take the fcv out and run it. It might not be opening.

Before I got one it was running hot and that is one of the reasons I got it to see if I could get the motor to run cooler... It is after the T on the hose that goes to the exhaust. I got the higher end up that adjust. Should I open it all the way to make it run cooler or close it to make it run cooler? I heard that if you close it (still allowing the min water flow) it cools the motor because it doesn't allow so much water out and there is more water in the motor. Not sure if this is correct.. To me the faster the water goes out the more it will cool because you are getting all that heat out of the motor.
 
Location
fl
can you ride in shallow water with the hood off and let the hose going to the chamber hang over board to see how much water is going through.
 
Location
fl
is there any clog in the lines?
do you have the headpipe screws open? if so make sure there not cloged.

draw a pic of your cooling..
 

5810

WHERE-THE-SEAT-AT
Location
Knoxville TN
blown head oring. how much water is coming out of pissers, should be steady stream with throttle,,,, & no steam or burping lol.
 
Location
fl
do what i said with the hood off.. you could also rev it up on the trailer when its backed into the water at the ramp to check
 
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Location
fl
with my standard fcv i had to cut a a little of the spring off because i didnt have enough pressure to open it but that was with single cooling.

the faster the water flows the more it cools.

every set up is different cant really say.. but since the middle screw is stuck leave the top screw how you have it set and crack the bottom screw open a little that will add some extra water to your pipe to cool your chamber
 
Location
Alabama
I would remove the cooling line from your head and blow into it going towards your exhaust and make sure you have no blockage, then i would take a piece of hose and attach it to the head barb and blow back towards your pump to make sure that path is clear. then i would try to find a boat ramp that is not busy or private, and back the ski into the water, leaving the ski strapped down on the trailer and of course the trailer attached to the vehicle. then you can stand beside your ski with the hood off and run the motor. leave that same extra piece of hose on the head and run the motor and look at your flow that way. you can remove the cooling line in different places and check your water flow. If you have good water flow, and you are still overheating, then you have something inside your motor causing abnormal friction, If it was my ski I would not ride it long enough to get that hot because i would be worried about seizing the motor.
 
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I would remove the cooling line from your head and blow into it going towards your exhaust and make sure you have no blockage, then i would take a piece of hose and attach it to the head barb and blow back towards your pump to make sure that path is clear. then i would try to find a boat ramp that is not busy or private, and back the ski into the water, leaving the ski strapped down on the trailer and of course the trailer attached to the vehicle. then you can stand beside your ski with the hood off and run the motor. leave that same extra piece of hose on the head and run the motor and look at your flow that way. you can remove the cooling line in different places and check your water flow. If you have good water flow, and you are still overheating, then you have something inside your motor causing abnormal friction, If it was my ski I would not ride it long enough to get that hot because i would be worried about seizing the motor.

I will try this out! Thanks!
 

tor*p*do

Squarenose FTW
Site Supporter
Location
NW NC
are you running dual cooling from the pump?
if not, eliminate or severely restrict the pisser from the front of the head
 
Alright I pulled the lines today.
- I blew into the one that goes from the top of the pipe to the T and it was clear and blew out some water that was in the line out of the pisser.

-Blew into the line back to the exhaust and water came out in the pump and was clear.

-I pulled the live off of the valve (after) and it was clear.

-Pulled the line before the valve after the T and the valve was not opening no matter how hard I blew. I pulled the spring and it seemed like the ball was sticking a little so I lubed it up and put it in. I put it together and had it open almost all the way (spring had little pressure) and blew in it. It was allowing the air to pass but was hard. Tightened it a little more and did the same but was hard to blow in. One more full turn and it wouldn't allow my air to pass.

2 questions:

-Should I cut the spring to allow not so much pressure to open the valve?

-The way I have the T is that the main flow is going back into the exhaust. Should I turn the T so the main flow of water is going on the pisser and not back into the exhaust?

Also any input of any other options would be great! Thanks again guys for helping me out!
 
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