SOS PLEASE HELP

Just4Fun

Just4Fun

First World Problems...
Location
Southern Oregon
Couple things to try.
Unplug your white and black wires on the S/S switch.
Double check your external fuel filters and internals on the carbs, pull the line off the filters I had a pice of gasket in one of my filter necks once that you couldn't see with the line on.

Pull your plug wires one at a time. Stick a spare plug in the plug wire youve disconnected and ground to engine so you dont hurt the coil. See if the motor will run on either if it dies on one you know that's the problem cylinder if it runs on both singled out its prob cdi or stator related. I have a 62t cdi and a 62t stator that are known good I would be willing to ship to you for testing purposes. Pm me and we can figure something out.

I doubt it's the oring head if it won't Rev up on the trailer, and you have even compression.
 
Pro-pulsion

Pro-pulsion

Location
Ontario, Canada
Just a quick thought, how old is the crank? I went through this with an old sea-couch. I did everything mentioned, cleaned carbs about a dozen times, changed small variables in them, bought a full set of electrics, nothing worked. In the end it turned out to be bad crank bearings. Since you have added the head and higher compression, you have also changed the combustion forces against the crank by a good bit more. What happens with old bearings, is that when the power stroke occurs, it forces the crank down against the bottom portion of the bearings rather then maintain smooth rotational transition. With worn bearings, you now have a little bit of play in there for the crank. Once that bearing gives way for the new load against the crank, the next area to give way are the crank seals. The crank pushes down, forces the bearings down, forces the seals down and opens up an air gap between the crank and seal. Notice how giving it more fuel did nothing to help the situation...it may be time to do a crankcase pressure test and check for worn seals. That could indicate worn crank bearings too. My old ski would run great one time, then horrible if at all the next until it just finally always seemed to be flooding which made think it was time to pull it fully apart. In my case, the bearing cage on the PTO side literally blew up in pieces. How the pieces never got through and trashed the engine I will never know.
 
fasterthanyou

fasterthanyou

chas
Location
fl orlando
augustaf said:
The op mentioned that he replaced the cylinder and installed an o ring head. That's when things didn't work so good anymore. Are the base gasket and the dome o rings good? I agree that the electrics should not go "bad" from that procedure.
Click to expand...
i first ran the new cylinder with a west coast head (same head i ran with old set up. it was about 160psi.) i ran this old head for the first hr of break in. i was advised to go with a girdled head from blue and chris to bump compression more to help burn the extra fuel because all of the top end kits they set up use them so i did. looks 100 times better if nothing else. its not a comp related problem. iv got 185 dead even
 
fasterthanyou

fasterthanyou

chas
Location
fl orlando
Just4Fun said:
Couple things to try.
Unplug your white and black wires on the S/S switch.
Double check your external fuel filters and internals on the carbs, pull the line off the filters I had a pice of gasket in one of my filter necks once that you couldn't see with the line on.

Pull your plug wires one at a time. Stick a spare plug in the plug wire youve disconnected and ground to engine so you dont hurt the coil. See if the motor will run on either if it dies on one you know that's the problem cylinder if it runs on both singled out its prob cdi or stator related. I have a 62t cdi and a 62t stator that are known good I would be willing to ship to you for testing purposes. Pm me and we can figure something out.

I doubt it's the oring head if it won't Rev up on the trailer, and you have even compression.
Click to expand...
ill give it a go and run one cylinder at a time
 
fasterthanyou

fasterthanyou

chas
Location
fl orlando
im gonna try one more thing before i dig into electronics. my old set up was with a external mikuni fuel pump. and im still using it with this carb set up. blue and chris have run this set up on hundreds of motors and its always been close but thats with a fuel pump on the carb body. my fuel pump may be pumping way too much fuel and over flowing the carbs because it cant all get through the return hole in the second carb. that also may explain why my old carb was set up so wacked but ran great.
 
Wiseguy92

Wiseguy92

Location
Saginaw MI
Watch the motor at idle and look down into your carbs. If you see fule dribbling out of the high speed ring in the carb you do have too much fule pressure. I run full specs with a remote pump and had that problem. My motor acted rich like yours. I ended up opening up my return line resistance jet quite a bit to like a 140 I believe. I also made my own thicker tabs that bolt inside the moon shaped piece of the carb that cover the high speed circuit. They help hold the fule back until the vacuumed is enuff to pull them open and complete the path to the high speed circuit . The mikuni ones are like .003" thick. I have a .005" in one carb and .010" in the other to keep it from dribbling. It cured my problems.... I used plastic shim stock to make the tabs.


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