Spark plugs in watercraft

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
Somebody posted those plugs up before in their own thread and I think that's the thread that @Quinc was referencing earlier.

I picked up a case of the BR9EYA's today for me and ScottS to test out. I run my ski pretty fat and then it sits for long periods in between rides so my plugs are usually built up pretty decent which makes for hard initial starting so I am curious if these may alleviate some of that.

I'm game to try anything once. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Are you able to test spark energy and differences in plug gap from your fancy electronics testing facility?
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
  • BR9EYA
  • Heat Range: 9
  • Resistor Plug: Yes
  • Tip Type: V-Groove
  • Center Electrode Material: Nickel
  • Gap (In): 0.032 Inch
  • Gap (mm): 0.8mm
  • Thread Reach (In): 0.750 Inch
  • Thread Reach (mm): 19mm
  • Type Of Resistor: Standard
  • Approximate Resistor Value (Ohm): 5K Ohm
  • Center Electrode Core Material: Copper
  • Center Electrode Tip Material: Nickel
  • Ground Configuration: Standard
  • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel
  • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Standard
  • Insulator Height (mm): 55mm
  • Number Of Ground Electrodes: 1


    BR8ES
    • Heat Range: 8
    • Resistor Plug: Yes
    • Type Of Resistor: Standard
    • Center Electrode Material: Nickel
    • Gap (In): 0.032 Inch
    • Gap (mm): 0.8mm
    • Thread Reach (In): 0.750 Inch
    • Thread Reach (mm): 19mm
    • Approximate Resistor Value (Ohm): 5K Ohm
    • Center Electrode Core Material: Copper
    • Center Electrode Tip Material: Nickel
    • Ground Configuration: Standard
    • Ground Electrode Core Material: Nickel
    • Ground Electrode Tip Design: Standard
    • Insulator Height (mm): 55mm
    • Number Of Ground Electrodes: 1

    Some good info here as well:
https://www.ngk.com/learning-center/article/207/i-have-slightly-modified-my-motor---do-i-need

Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other - for Champion, Autolite and Bosch, the higher the number, the hotter the plug. However, for NGK, the higher the number, the colder the plug.
 
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x2mafia

Maximum effort
Location
WA
this is too much reading for me I run br8eix in the yamaha and they work great. We ride mostly salt too and the iridiums lasted 6 months and me and my ski drink salt water regularly, the only reason they lasted 6 months is because the crank blowed up but the plugs actually still look groovy.

seemed to make everything a little more snappy. Im running a donor 61x right now ill back to back test them
 
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jeremy chambon

Need more power
Location
rockford MI
100% positive know one is running a .0010" (one thou) gap...Unless that is your piston set that gap at TDC when it smashed your plug closed. ;)


.1000 (one hundred thou)
.0100 (ten thou)
.0010 (one thou)
.0005 (half thou)
.0001 (one tenth)
I was thinking there was one too many 0 in there.
 

tntsuperjet

Tntperformance-engineering.com
Location
Georgetown ca
Are you sure your running B8eg??
Not BR8eg?
If so are you using the NGK BLUE 5k resistor caps??

Also keep in mind the EG,EV, EIX, are all performance spark plugs that come with a much higher price tag then ES.
The EYA is same price point as ES.
THERE economy plugs

As for the ES COMING IN water cooled sleds. Look back and see
You won't find many made after 2005 that do!
 

BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
Yes I run B8EG NGK part #3997

Comes in solid top with that part number also.

I am running an oem Yamaha coil with MSD boots.

I've tried both resistor and non plugs, and resistor and non boots and have never felt a change in the way my ski runs. I run 215 psi on an 82.5 mm bore and can hold the ski wide open as long as my body will let me on 93 pump gas. I've ran this setup for 5 years with no issues.


I buy plugs in bulk from www.clubplug.net

The B8EG solid (3997) is $3.52 per plug. Free shipping
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
Are you able to test spark energy and differences in plug gap from your fancy electronics testing facility?

I guess. I use the PET 4000 spark testers which allow me to test overall spark energy from the coil/system but I haven't seen the need to looked at the spark plugs themselves. I test based on their recommded settings but have no knowledge of how that compares to real world firing under true compression though.

Is this the article you were thinking of @Quinc?
http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/tryede-a-new-spark-plug.153142/
 

scotts2t

Head Woop!
Location
Lake Erie
Yes I run B8EG NGK part #3997

Comes in solid top with that part number also.

I am running an oem Yamaha coil with MSD boots.

I've tried both resistor and non plugs, and resistor and non boots and have never felt a change in the way my ski runs. I run 215 psi on an 82.5 mm bore and can hold the ski wide open as long as my body will let me on 93 pump gas. I've ran this setup for 5 years with no issues.


I buy plugs in bulk from www.clubplug.net

The B8EG solid (3997) is $3.52 per plug. Free shipping
I have run non resistor setups in the past and have not had any problems either, no timing inconsistency. Is this possibly something that develops over time Tnt?
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
Dale's CDI says not to run resistor plugs or it may damage the cdi

http://www.dalesjetsports.com/tutorials/replacing-the-bad-attitude-cdi-igniter/

The Bad Attitude Racing CDI uses a high efficiency, high output ignition coil. The spark plug wires must be connected to either grounded spark plugs or grounded spark detectors. Using resistor spark plugs or boots will damage the CDI. Failure to follow the above directions will void the warranty. Use only terminals and boots supplied with the unit. If you are unfamiliar with this type of ignition installation consult your jet ski dealer.

He also recommends the use of B8EV plugs.

We recommend using B8EV spark plugs with a .030in. (.77mm) gap.
 
OEM CDI's can use either or in regards to resistor or non-resistor plugs but I believe the OEM plug boots do not have any resistors built into them which is why. The point behind using non-resistor plugs is because, if you are unsure of your plug caps having built in resistors such as the blue NGK caps do, and you run resistor plugs you have just increased your resistance values by double at minimum. The CDI...or capacitor discharge ignition system...must release the retained voltage in the proper time taking into account the additional resistance values of either the plug or the cap, not both. When you stress the CDI and slow down the discharge rate you begin to overload the capacitors with the following charge coming from the magneto. In time the capacitors will swell and eventually burst from too much energy retention. That is why when you are unsure of whether your plug caps have built in resistors or not, you are safer to run non-resistor plugs. If I remember correctly too from what I was told as a lad...and it could have been total hogwash lol, but the only reason for the implementation of the resistor plug back in the day before digital ignition systems were around, was because of the radio frequency wave disruption non-resistor plug were creating. Any vessels further out in distress were having a hard time with communications because the radio waves were getting jumbled or becoming choppy from the interference of the spark discharge by all the near inland vehicles running straight plugs. Adding in the resistor eliminated that one range of frequency disruptions because it put the pulse of discharge at a different wave length. Anybody remember points and condensers? Major explosions of spark arcing in the broad atmosphere as the points closed...that is resistor free ignition in it's glory my friends lol, and everything ran off of that for far too long lol.
 

tntsuperjet

Tntperformance-engineering.com
Location
Georgetown ca
That electrical noise you speak of was primarily caused by solid copper spark plug wires and none resisted spark.
That same noise can cause disruption in the Cdi box and make the box incapable of reading the pulse coil signals properly and cause timing issues or backfires.
 
Location
England
Can someone just confirm that I should be going from a BR7ES to a BR9EYA as I'm not sure about the different temp class? It's in a TPE900 comp motor @ 180psi. Going to order some to test out. @tntsuperjet Thanks
 
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