Stinger and fuel tank spacing

Location
Stockton
I would try Bk’s suggestion to get some separation between the 2 if possible.

Or if needed plastic fuel tanks can be heated with heat gun and molded some. Obviously empty and assuming it’s a plastic tank lol
 

Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
Thanks, but I’m not too keen on heating up the plastic tank,
Fuel vapour and all that
A heat gun will be your friend.l have heated up several tanks over the years.Just take a hose,fill the tank up with water and then turn the water down to a low trickle and run for an hour.You will be fine.And of course do it where there is plenty of air movement!
 
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A heat gun will be your friend.l have heated up several tanks over the years.Just take a hose,fill the tank up with water and then turn the water down to a low trickle and run for an hour.You will be fine.And of course do it where there is plenty of air movement!
Ok , and when you would use the heat gun, would the plastic tank be full of water or empty.?
 
the other option is just to get a sj tank. youll have to slightly relocate the battery box. a riding buddy had the same issue youre having. has a tdr waterbox, mod chamber. his actually rubbed a hole in his chamber. he basically used a piece of 1/4 thick aluminum stock, bolted it to the battery tray mount with countersunk screws and redrilled and tapped new holes for the battery box so he could run a superjet tank. he has plenty of clearance now.
 
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Clean empty tank, Heat it up hotter than you would think, if you can touch it without melting your hand it’s not nearly hot enough, lol. Push it in using some kind of mandrel shaped like your chamber there (piece of pipe, baseball, softball etc) and while pushing in and stretching the plastic have someone pour water on the tank to cool it off so it holds its shape. It’s not going to need to be dented far, a half inch goes a long way for something that looks like it’s hitting by a mile...
 
Is this is a SuperJet B Chamber in an Yamaha FX-1? The Limited is longer than the Mod. Do you know which one it is?

http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/superjet-factory-b-pipe-on-an-fx1.41667/ This Thread says the Mod Chamber will fit? Maybe trade for a Mod Chamber?

Most of the B Chamber have internal braces in the Convergence Cone, right after the Belly (Mid-Section), but I've seen some that don't come with these internal braces.

If no bracing, then you can use a ball peen hammer and with many small hammer taps (peening) you can make the needed clearance. Any performance loss will be negligible.

But this denting will probably lower the resale value of the Chamber.
I purchased it new from Blowsion around 10 years ago, and stated that I required it for an FX1, but I’m not sure which one they sold me....
 

Sanoman

AbouttoKrash
Location
NE Tenn
Clean empty tank, Heat it up hotter than you would think, if you can touch it without melting your hand it’s not nearly hot enough, lol. Push it in using some kind of mandrel shaped like your chamber there (piece of pipe, baseball, softball etc) and while pushing in and stretching the plastic have someone pour water on the tank to cool it off so it holds its shape. It’s not going to need to be dented far, a half inch goes a long way for something that looks like it’s hitting by a mile...
Great advise @iQRTurbo
 
Thanks, but I’m not too keen on heating up the plastic tank,
Fuel vapour and all that
I did this with a brand new Cold Fusion tank as BK suggested, worked perfectly and was not scary in the least. I pulled the tank, drained it, and then let it sit for a while. Next I used a heat gun to warm the tank in the selected area, then used a piece of PVC to push in the spot I heated. Super safe dude, no open flames. Spot heat, move away, spot heat, move away, spot heat, PUSH! :eek:
 
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How did this work out for you I have the same issue
 

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Hi, I heated the tank and kept rolling it with a baseball bat as much as I dared safe as I could see that the thickness of the tank was been compromised, it did create the spacing that I needed , so far so good...
 
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