superjet cdi modification

djyox

Old school -not by choice
Location
Twincities, MN
So is there a step by step dummy guide?

I think I understand what to do, unless you need to remove something? Or am I just soldering onto?


Don't SBN's have somewhat of a limiter in them anyhow? Not that I'm going to be trying to do WOT all the time, but it will hit it once in a while, and don't want to fry a motor... Knowing this would help me figure out if I should go limiterless, or adjustable limiter....
 

chrisdoc0608

insulting
Location
rocky mount, nc
are the 36k resistors and 500ohm pot the best setup to use if i want to go adjustable? to increase rpms do i increase resistance or dearease it? which is better, the straight elimination of the rev limiter, or the adjustable mod? i read that doing the elimination eliminates the timing curve, what effect does that have?
 
Last edited:

INDebtSJ

Having a VISION!
Location
Ga
I took the 90k original resistor out and installed a trimmer pot.Then set is to what resistance 8500 rpms would be.I dont remember what the ohms were for 8500 rpms.I havent put a tach on it yet but runs like a champ.
 
Location
dfw
CDI Testing

I tested two 6m6 and three 61X ignition boxes for rev limit and timing. I tried my best to do each test the same way using the same engine on the same day, it may not be very accurate though. I found that the rev limits varied greatly and the timing was nearly identical between boxes. One 6m6 box from a 93 Superjet revved to 6400 rpm. The other 6m6 box was from a 93 Blaster and revved to 6900 rpm. All three 61X boxes I tested (from unknown boats) measured from 6700-6900 rpm. I measured about a 500 rpm increased limit per 10k ohm reduction. Decreasing the resistance much below 60 ohms seemed to mess up the function of the limiter. The overheat sensor always worked the same and the timing did not change. I was very disapointed that these ignition boxes do NOT retard timing at high rpm. They start at around 14 degrees at low idle and go to 20-21 degrees at around 3000 rpm and stay there. This does not seem to be creating problems but does seem to be a dangerous situation for pump gas, especially when the squish clearence is reduced.
 
Last edited:

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
does anyone know if you have to disconect anything when you get rid of the rev limiter all together

If you're not comfortable taking a dremel to potted electronics and modifying those onboard electronics, I would suggest looking for one that is already modded or having RIVA or Pro-Tec do it.
 

Crab

thanks darin...noswad!
Location
Seattle
FYI, I have a 6m6 box that was modded, the side affect was it lost the stop function when you hit the stop button.
 

keefer

T1
Location
Tennessee
If you're not comfortable taking a dremel to potted electronics and modifying those onboard electronics, I would suggest looking for one that is already modded or having RIVA or Pro-Tec do it.

does anyone know if you have to disconect anything when you get rid of the rev limiter all together

Or just send it to me and I will mod it for you and you will save about $70 of what you will pay the big shops. Send me a working CDI and $55 and I will send you back a modded adjustable rev limit CDI.
 

Mike W

Infidel
Location
North Florida
Does anyone see a problem with eliminating the rev-limiter, but also place a toggle switch inline with the jumper wire? I figured this will allow a limited worry free break in period and save your motor if you let a rookie ride it...

Don't EVER let a rookie ride your ski.:nono:
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
So if you guys know all this somebody take the next step on how to reprogram the CDI to advance and retard more.


The stock CDI is not programmable. The curve is generated with an analog circuit, it can't be reprogrammed.

If you want programmable, look into MSD TL, Advent, or the WAX Racing CDI.
 
Top Bottom