SXR 1100 Swap Help !!

[Jfara]

I was told by multiple people that the 1100 will go in on the stock 800 bedplates and mounts, with a 750ss/xi/sts driveshaft and ada coupler. I dropped the engine in on the 800 bedplate and the fronton the engine overlaps the tank by about 1 1/2" if you line up the mounts to the bedplate. What do I do here instead of hacking up the tank foam? Stock engine and carbs. Ski has rad dudes centerbleed pipe, using stock exhaust routing.

 

[user_error]

800 bedplate only fits in one spot on the 1100 engine but good to double check you’ve got it mounted to the 1100 in the correct direction. If using this setup you need to use oem engine mounts. Are you sure this is a 750ss shaft? That’s the only one that will work. I’m fairly certain the other ones you listed are different.

800 bedplate with oem engine mounts in oem locations with 750ss shaft and stock pump works. It’s a snug fit but always works.

 

[Jfara]

No Driveshaft is installed yet, it is coming in later this week, ive ordered a 750ss shaft with the correct coupler. I’m going to flip the bedplate, and put in flush plugs on the stator cover tomorrow. This is how the engine sat today mocked up with with the bed plate just behind the mounts. I’ll post an update ASAP. thanks.

 

[user_error]

You will likely need to install one of these too for for the necessary clearance between the fuel tank and stator cover.

Flywheel Block Off Plate - Kawasaki 1100

ADA Racing Billet aluminum front oil injection cover for Kawasaki ZXI 1100 Triples. Includes stainless mounting hardware and o-ring. Now .180"/4.6mm thinner for better clearance. Total thickness is .300"/7.5mm. Also, covers are recessed on the backside so that you do not need to remove the...

www.blowsion.com

 

[Jhucke]

You will likely need to install one of these too for for the necessary clearance between the fuel tank and stator cover.

Flywheel Block Off Plate - Kawasaki 1100

ADA Racing Billet aluminum front oil injection cover for Kawasaki ZXI 1100 Triples. Includes stainless mounting hardware and o-ring. Now .180"/4.6mm thinner for better clearance. Total thickness is .300"/7.5mm. Also, covers are recessed on the backside so that you do not need to remove the...

www.blowsion.com

Sorry I am going to hijack this thread, but you have obviously built some 1100SXRs, what kind of speed you looking at for a stock engine on pump gas? Let's assume a decent prop is used with oem pump.

 

[user_error]

A bone stock 1100 engine with a stock pump setup in an sxr is honestly pretty slow. The advantage of the swaps is that the 1100 is really receptive to some simple mods and then they can become absolute rippers while still being reliable.

I can almost guarantee you will be disappointed if you install an 1100 and leave everything else stock. I’d highly recommend doing both timing advances (inside stator and jump ebox wires), do the dry pipe mod, mill the stock head to bump the compression (and add an extra water outlet on the front/rear cylinder), open up the waterbox (or use a rear waterbox) so it can breathe better, bore the stock nozzle to 82-84mm, and get a decent prop. If you have some extra money throw some mikuni carbs on with a good manifold and don’t look back. A good prop for a stock pump would be something in the range of 14-16 on the leading edge and 20-22 if using a skat trak and if using a solas something like 14-15 leading edge and 23-25 trailing edge. I didn’t really use the stock pumps a whole lot because upgrading to a 142mm or 145mm magnum pump really wakes them up a ton and allows them to hook up really well. There are a lot of combinations that work wel and your prop selection will need to be chosen in consideration with the other mods you do as well.

When the sxr1100 were all the rage in the racing world I ran an 82mm bore 1100 with mikuni carbs, Kommander intake manifold, dry pipe mod, light cleanup exhaust porting (no case porting) both timing advances, milled stock head approximately 145 psi, rear waterbox, a 142 mag pump with a skat trak impeller and it was 63-64mph all day long for a couple seasons and dead reliable. This was a pump gas 92 octane setup with no issues. You could get them into the high 60’s and low 70’s with lots of porting, advent ignitions, high compression (200+) and race gas. I was really happy with mine and got rid of the setup simply because everything went 4 stroke in racing. I have a 1500 GP1 now but nothing like the sound of a bunch of crisp 1100’s on the line.

 

[Jfara]

So i flipped removed the chunky block off plate. It fits. Ordered the block off plate. Thx

 

[sturat]

AFAIK its an stx 1100 driveshaft swap and it bolts right in

 

[Jhucke]

A bone stock 1100 engine with a stock pump setup in an sxr is honestly pretty slow. The advantage of the swaps is that the 1100 is really receptive to some simple mods and then they can become absolute rippers while still being reliable.

I can almost guarantee you will be disappointed if you install an 1100 and leave everything else stock. I’d highly recommend doing both timing advances (inside stator and jump ebox wires), do the dry pipe mod, mill the stock head to bump the compression (and add an extra water outlet on the front/rear cylinder), open up the waterbox (or use a rear waterbox) so it can breathe better, bore the stock nozzle to 82-84mm, and get a decent prop. If you have some extra money throw some mikuni carbs on with a good manifold and don’t look back. A good prop for a stock pump would be something in the range of 14-16 on the leading edge and 20-22 if using a skat trak and if using a solas something like 14-15 leading edge and 23-25 trailing edge. I didn’t really use the stock pumps a whole lot because upgrading to a 142mm or 145mm magnum pump really wakes them up a ton and allows them to hook up really well. There are a lot of combinations that work wel and your prop selection will need to be chosen in consideration with the other mods you do as well.

When the sxr1100 were all the rage in the racing world I ran an 82mm bore 1100 with mikuni carbs, Kommander intake manifold, dry pipe mod, light cleanup exhaust porting (no case porting) both timing advances, milled stock head approximately 145 psi, rear waterbox, a 142 mag pump with a skat trak impeller and it was 63-64mph all day long for a couple seasons and dead reliable. This was a pump gas 92 octane setup with no issues. You could get them into the high 60’s and low 70’s with lots of porting, advent ignitions, high compression (200+) and race gas. I was really happy with mine and got rid of the setup simply because everything went 4 stroke in racing. I have a 1500 GP1 now but nothing like the sound of a bunch of crisp 1100’s on the line.

Sure that makes sense, In my mind 'stock' to me which is kind of laughable would be to assume that all those easy mods would be completed like waterbox, carbs, dry pipe, whatever else, but leave the engine porting alone at least and avoid excessive race gas compression and no exorbitant ignition components.

 

[user_error]

AFAIK its an stx 1100 driveshaft swap and it bolts right in

A Kawi stx1100 driveshaft works if you use a 3/8” bearing spacer on the through hull bearing and you use the 1100 engine mounts with the front of the mounts in the original holes and requires drilling and tapping for a new rear engine mount bolt holes. Also, using the stx driveshaft you will only use 3 of the 1100 engine mounts and 1 of the original 800 mounts at the exhaust side rear.

Stx shaft does work, but there are more complications to deal with to make it work. I always preferred the 750ss shaft with an upgraded coupler for the simplicity. No changing mounts, no redriling/tapping for different engine mount holes, no bearing spacer to buy, ect.

 

[Jfara]

Any Chance you could walk me through Water-Line Routing? Stock pump, and stock engine except for the dry pipe centerbleed mod. Head Pipe nipple is capped off, and the Gasket for the Exhaust gasket has holes in it now.

 

[Jfara]

Any Chance you could walk me through Water-Line Routing? Stock pump, and stock engine except for the dry pipe centerbleed mod. Head Pipe nipple is capped off, and the Gasket for the Exhaust gasket has holes in it now. View attachment 438447

Also has a statorcblock off plate now.

 

[user_error]

I’d highly recommend doing the dry pipe mod and ditching the center bleed chamber. Follow this:

How to dry out your Kawasaki 1100 exhaust system - PWCToday

Post topics relevant to PWCs in this Kawasaki Jetski Forum.

www.pwctoday.com

As far as water lines, I’d suggest drilling and tapping your pump for a 2nd fitting and using both through-hull tubes to feed the bottom of the 1100 manifold. Add another barbed 90* npt fitting on the bottom of the 1100 manifold. Drill and tap the front and rear cylinders on the head shell for 1/8npt x 3/8 barbed fittings. Run these two 3/8 lines to bypass fittings. Keep the original 1/2” line from the middle cylinder to headpipe.
Add a T in one of the incoming cold water lines from the pump to feed the stinger spray bar mentioned in the dry pipe mod instructions.

Also, I’d highly recommend using an original sxr800 bed plate if possible, they are stronger than the 650 bedplate I see in the pic. Just an observation.

 

[Baja 252]

There are extra holes in the bottom of the 1100 case. I would make sure you use Loctite on the four bolts holding the bed plate to the case and I would drill the bed plate so you could add another bolt. Our engine vibrated loose from the bed plate a few years ago.
Our ski is the exact same set up as yours, if I could go back and change, one thing, it would be to use a different shaft and mounting position to get the engine further back. It’s pretty nose heavy with a 1100 and with the engine all the way forward to the gas tank it’s worse.
62 mph with our mild set-up, stock carbs, timing advance, head and good prop.

 

[Jfara]

There are extra holes in the bottom of the 1100 case. I would make sure you use Loctite on the four bolts holding the bed plate to the case and I would drill the bed plate so you could add another bolt. Our engine vibrated loose from the bed plate a few years ago.
Our ski is the exact same set up as yours, if I could go back and change, one thing, it would be to use a different shaft and mounting position to get the engine further back. It’s pretty nose heavy with a 1100 and with the engine all the way forward to the gas tank it’s worse.
62 mph with our mild set-up, stock carbs, timing advance, head and good prop.

it was really hard to find someone with the same setup.. i’m going to tap the pump for the dual cooling modification with the dry pipe, and follow the diagram below. If you can, let me know if you have this same routing pics would be great, and if there’s anything i should change. I’m not very concerned with the nose weight as i’m a bigger rider.

 

[Jfara]

I’d highly recommend doing the dry pipe mod and ditching the center bleed chamber. Follow this:

How to dry out your Kawasaki 1100 exhaust system - PWCToday

Post topics relevant to PWCs in this Kawasaki Jetski Forum.

www.pwctoday.com

As far as water lines, I’d suggest drilling and tapping your pump for a 2nd fitting and using both through-hull tubes to feed the bottom of the 1100 manifold. Add another barbed 90* npt fitting on the bottom of the 1100 manifold. Drill and tap the front and rear cylinders on the head shell for 1/8npt x 3/8 barbed fittings. Run these two 3/8 lines to bypass fittings. Keep the original 1/2” line from the middle cylinder to headpipe.
Add a T in one of the incoming cold water lines from the pump to feed the stinger spray bar mentioned in the dry pipe mod instructions.

Also, I’d highly recommend using an original sxr800 bed plate if possible, they are stronger than the 650 bedplate I see in the pic. Just an observation.

At the bottom of the chamber there is a 90° fitting.. What should be done with this? It is not included in the dry pipe instructions write up.

 

[Baja 252]

it was really hard to find someone with the same setup.. i’m going to tap the pump for the dual cooling modification with the dry pipe, and follow the diagram below. If you can, let me know if you have this same routing pics would be great, and if there’s anything i should change. I’m not very concerned with the nose weight as i’m a bigger rider. View attachment 438472

Yes, that is the same way I ran my water lines.

 

[Baja 252]

Also, do yourself a favor and cut up a pool noodle and stuff it into the area between the 800 bedplate and the case. That space will eat up any bolt, nut, washer or socket you drop and you won't get it out till you pull the engine.

 

[user_error]

At the bottom of the chamber there is a 90° fitting.. What should be done with this? It is not included in the dry pipe instructions write up. View attachment 438473

that fitting should also go to a bypass

 

[Jfara]

that fitting should also go to a bypass

do I need make holes for the water jacket in both the intake manifold/headpipe gasket, and the headpipe/chamber gasket ?