The Freakiest -7" Build You Ever Done Seen.

RMBC Freeride

Vintage
Site Supporter
Location
Pueblo, CO
Man I hate to burst your bubble but lining your pump shoe up using an intake grate is the LAST way to ever do this.
You need to drill your drive shaft hole (hoping Tim's guide hole is close) and assemble your pump. Bolt an intermediate housing without the shaft onto the fire wall. Slide the pump w/ shaft and pump seal in from rear through the intermediate housing.
This is how you line your pump shoe and pump up properly. Your shaft needs to be perfectly center of you intermediate hole inside the hull then mark and shim your pump shoe location and your pump holes PRECISELY! Remove the pump, drill and glue. Your intake grate will be the LAST of your worries as it can be modified to fit later.
If you want this thing to run with minimal vibration and wear to your intermediate shaft and drive shaft and everything else you need this step to be done PERFECTLY. That means the drive shaft and pump and pump shoe all need to line up perfectly with the hole in the intermediate housing.

This is your most critical step bro, I hope you take the time and get it right or you will be trashing parts for as long as you own this boat and or starting over once you ride it the first time. Get the pump shoe and pump correct before moving on and take no short cuts.

Good advice here Paulie - don't worry about the grate right now, get the shoe aligned to the pump and midshaft fitment first.
 

TOBY

BNA
Location
NashVegas
Man I hate to burst your bubble but lining your pump shoe up using an intake grate is the LAST way to ever do this.
You need to drill your drive shaft hole (hoping Tim's guide hole is close) and assemble your pump. Bolt an intermediate housing without the shaft onto the fire wall. Slide the pump w/ shaft and pump seal in from rear through the intermediate housing.
This is how you line your pump shoe and pump up properly. Your shaft needs to be perfectly center of you intermediate hole inside the hull then mark and shim your pump shoe location and your pump holes PRECISELY! Remove the pump, drill and glue. Your intake grate will be the LAST of your worries as it can be modified to fit later.
If you want this thing to run with minimal vibration and wear to your intermediate shaft and drive shaft and everything else you need this step to be done PERFECTLY. That means the drive shaft and pump and pump shoe all need to line up perfectly with the hole in the intermediate housing.

This is your most critical step bro, I hope you take the time and get it right or you will be trashing parts for as long as you own this boat and or starting over once you ride it the first time. Get the pump shoe and pump correct before moving on and take no short cuts.

ALSO MAKE SURE YOUR DRIVESHAFT IS NOT BENT.
it might work better for you if you dont use the pumpseal on the first try.
and what are you going to use as glue for this project?
 

BrightE's

Paul
Location
Seattle, WA
Man I hate to burst your bubble but lining your pump shoe up using an intake grate is the LAST way to ever do this.
You need to drill your drive shaft hole (hoping Tim's guide hole is close) and assemble your pump. Bolt an intermediate housing without the shaft onto the fire wall. Slide the pump w/ shaft and pump seal in from rear through the intermediate housing.
This is how you line your pump shoe and pump up properly. Your shaft needs to be perfectly center of you intermediate hole inside the hull then mark and shim your pump shoe location and your pump holes PRECISELY! Remove the pump, drill and glue. Your intake grate will be the LAST of your worries as it can be modified to fit later.
If you want this thing to run with minimal vibration and wear to your intermediate shaft and drive shaft and everything else you need this step to be done PERFECTLY. That means the drive shaft and pump and pump shoe all need to line up perfectly with the hole in the intermediate housing.

This is your most critical step bro, I hope you take the time and get it right or you will be trashing parts for as long as you own this boat and or starting over once you ride it the first time. Get the pump shoe and pump correct before moving on and take no short cuts.

No no I get that the pump is the more critical aspect here. I think I slipped my words about what I am doing. I am using the correct placement of the pump shoe to know where I need to drill my holes up front for the 2 front holes on the grate. I want this to be an OEM specification so I don't have to modify intake grates every time I want to try a new one.
 

BrightE's

Paul
Location
Seattle, WA
Seeing a build like this almost makes me cringe...and gives me a lot more respect for hull builders. I have no where near the skill to complete a project like this. I wish I did, but sadly, I dont.

It is a lot to take on, but I understand the extent of it. I did everything I'm doing here on my RN build with exception of pump aligning and bonding top and bottom decks.

But yeah, props to the hull builders who can do this without batting an eye.
 
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Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
Nope. GFlex 655 for inserts and stainless cooling tubes - the 655 is getting covered in 3M 4000 for extra leak protection. The carbon exhaust pipe and top/bottom deck bonding is going to be normal medium 3:1 Epoxy with glass shard.

Sorry, I shouldn't have completely spoken for you, I knew you were using gflex for some stuff tough. I used my gflex yesterday, and I'm going over it with 5200 as well. Unless I should use 4000 instead?
 

BrightE's

Paul
Location
Seattle, WA
Sorry, I shouldn't have completely spoken for you, I knew you were using gflex for some stuff tough. I used my gflex yesterday, and I'm going over it with 5200 as well. Unless I should use 4000 instead?

It's no probs. 3M 4000 has better adhesion to metals than the 5200 is really it.
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
Yeah figures. Seems like here in the Midwest marine sealants, adhesives, and composites aren't all that easy to find in stores.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
 
Nope. GFlex 655 for inserts and stainless cooling tubes - the 655 is getting covered in 3M 4000 for extra leak protection. The carbon exhaust pipe and top/bottom deck bonding is going to be normal medium 3:1 Epoxy with glass shard.

Stainless cooling tubes? What is the problem with aluminum?
 

BrightE's

Paul
Location
Seattle, WA
Things are coming along smoothly - though as always, it is way more work than I originally assumed it would be.

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KTM434

Jamie FN Hickey
Location
Palm Coast FL
I could have told you that. You may have done a lot of work to your SJ but not nearly what you have ahead of you with this ski. Good luck
 

BrightE's

Paul
Location
Seattle, WA
You DID tell me that! ha.

But thanks dude. Yeah I always have this picture in my head of all the steps I'll have to go through, but I get all piped dreamed about it and think it's not so bad.

The good thing is that I'm doing this at my apartment, instead of having to travel an 1.5hrs up to the lake house - which is a huge time saver since I can sand, crank, drill, and glue all right after work if I've still got it in me.
 
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BrightE's

Paul
Location
Seattle, WA
It's coming along smoothly, boat loads of work though if you're doing it right. I've got all of the plumbing and under-tray inserts done. Ran into a bit of a snare with the exhaust but I caught it nice and early. It won't go straight from the tail of the ski to the place it is supposed to go in the firewall cause the wide tray and footholds will hit it. So I 3D printed an elbow mold, wrapped it in a few layers of pregged carbon tape, and power washed the print out. The exhaust is going in tomorrow but here is where I am at. uploadfromtaptalk1395296330711.jpguploadfromtaptalk1395296342912.jpguploadfromtaptalk1395296367404.jpguploadfromtaptalk1395296503262.jpg

Sent from my LG-G2 using Tapatalk
 
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