If you guys are running billet cases the profile is a bit different then the oem case. I had to chamfer the back of the stator plate. I kept having the crank bind up when fully tightened.
It took a bunch of tries to figure out where it was binding last weekend. I thought the ground wire was hitting it, I tried moving it, also ground some material (no luck), and finally painted the back to look for rubbing. Finally I figured it out. It is a real easy fix, just use a grinding stone to back bevel the center hole to clear crank seal lower lip.
I am real impressed with everything overall. Directon map is pretty straight forward, the price and customer support is immediate. I have never done total loss so it's been really cool to learn, so far so good.
The inner lip of the seal hangs out more on the billet cases. Back bevel crank hole to clear inner seal lip with your method of choice. I used a $2.00 grinding stone.
When trying to find static timing use stock cases and line static up with oem stator mark. Mark the center line of the cases on the stator plate.
Line up the center line on the billet cases and scribe a mark on the cases. Thank you to Kyle at Dasa for giving me idea for finding the static timing.