the tigercraft v3

I am new to building any sort of AM hull. im basically starting from scratch aside from an engine with a choice between a 701 62t or a 61x, a 144 pump and a impeller. This is kind of my way of seeing total cost of ski plus parts i will need as for my plans with some of the engine work. any and all input is appreciated as far as whether I need something else or the product is inferior with the buy once cry once in mind. yes money will be tight getting this thing together but it is going to happen. Please and thank yous for all the help i can get. basically im giving you guys a list with the prices of the exact price of the product or an estimate for somethings. i work in a boat shop so things like fuel lines, bilge pumps with be provided to me at cost if i need. I am trying to build a surf ski/ chasing boats at the river as my dad often spends alot of time a the river/lake with his jetboat, but primarily a surf ski. i just got sent a picture of the top half of the tigercraft hull and im super excited to say the least. again, im going to need quite a bit of help so please and thank yous again

701 build
1. port and polish work (61X or 62t? unsure which is the superior platform with so much conflicting info. i plan on case and cylinder) <--- should i prioritize this?
protec mike baker 951 698 8988 vance. 700.00

Aftermarket head 375.00

lightened flywheel 800.00 (any other options?)

factory b-pipe mod chamber 930.00 (i imagine they sell a manifold in 62t if i decide to go that route)

msd enhancer 430

dual carb setup 700 (i feel as though i will need this after opening more airflow into the cylinders, is their another alternative that is better or easier to work with?)

new gasket kit 80

ENGINE WORK TOTAL
4015 NOT INCLUDING TAX OR OTHER IF NEEDED ENGINE WORK SUCH AS CRANKSHAFT OR NEW CYLINDERS.

PARTS NEEDED TO RUN

Gas tank 350 (alternatives?)

Drive Shaft 285

Midshaft new 500 (i have an oem mishaft for a wave raider. i suppose i could cut this in half by just purchasing another midshaft for a superjet. thoughts?)

water box 225 (i choose this one for adjustability)

XScream Trim System 425 (thoughts?)

worx intake grate 225 (thoughts?)

protec 144 pump shoe 200 (thoughts?)

hydro turf mat 250 plus 100 in glue and other material (i feel like im underestimating the amount of mat i need, probably 2 since its my first time?)

rule bilge pump 60 bucks

350 for other materials such as water and fuel lines, bilge fittings and boweyes

TOTAL FOR PARTS 2970

SHIPPING OF THE SKI 1000

total estimated cost for engine and parts 7985

HULL AND POLE PURCHASE ALONG WITH HANDLEBARS THROTTLE CABLE ARE ALREADY PURCHASED FOR 7559 DOLLARS


REGISTRATION IN AZ TBD


AFTER THOUGHT, NEED A 50 DOLLAR SHAFT ALIGNMENT TOOL.



let me know what you guys think so far. am i on the right track? am i missing anything? thanks!
 

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Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
Throw a Solas mag pump stator on the list. @JetManiac could literally be a one stop shop for you with prices less than you posted. Do a push industries pump shoe to save yourself from endless grinding. No need for that flywheel. Lightened charging from @speedysprocket works awesome, jetmaniac stocks them too.
Highly recommend @JetManiac for custom builds. He knows, and has, exactly what you need and will not steer you in the wrong direction. Helped me a lot with my first builds! I swear I'm not sponsored by JM.. Just without him a lot of us would be lost!
 
I am new to building any sort of AM hull. im basically starting from scratch aside from an engine with a choice between a 701 62t or a 61x, a 144 pump and a impeller. This is kind of my way of seeing total cost of ski plus parts i will need as for my plans with some of the engine work. any and all input is appreciated as far as whether I need something else or the product is inferior with the buy once cry once in mind. yes money will be tight getting this thing together but it is going to happen. Please and thank yous for all the help i can get. basically im giving you guys a list with the prices of the exact price of the product or an estimate for somethings. i work in a boat shop so things like fuel lines, bilge pumps with be provided to me at cost if i need. I am trying to build a surf ski/ chasing boats at the river as my dad often spends alot of time a the river/lake with his jetboat, but primarily a surf ski. i just got sent a picture of the top half of the tigercraft hull and im super excited to say the least. again, im going to need quite a bit of help so please and thank yous again

701 build
1. port and polish work (61X or 62t? unsure which is the superior platform with so much conflicting info. i plan on case and cylinder) <--- should i prioritize this?
protec mike baker 951 698 8988 vance. 700.00

Aftermarket head 375.00

lightened flywheel 800.00 (any other options?)

factory b-pipe mod chamber 930.00 (i imagine they sell a manifold in 62t if i decide to go that route)

msd enhancer 430

dual carb setup 700 (i feel as though i will need this after opening more airflow into the cylinders, is their another alternative that is better or easier to work with?)

new gasket kit 80

ENGINE WORK TOTAL
4015 NOT INCLUDING TAX OR OTHER IF NEEDED ENGINE WORK SUCH AS CRANKSHAFT OR NEW CYLINDERS.

PARTS NEEDED TO RUN

Gas tank 350 (alternatives?)

Drive Shaft 285

Midshaft new 500 (i have an oem mishaft for a wave raider. i suppose i could cut this in half by just purchasing another midshaft for a superjet. thoughts?)

water box 225 (i choose this one for adjustability)

XScream Trim System 425 (thoughts?)

worx intake grate 225 (thoughts?)

protec 144 pump shoe 200 (thoughts?)

hydro turf mat 250 plus 100 in glue and other material (i feel like im underestimating the amount of mat i need, probably 2 since its my first time?)

rule bilge pump 60 bucks

350 for other materials such as water and fuel lines, bilge fittings and boweyes

TOTAL FOR PARTS 2970

SHIPPING OF THE SKI 1000

total estimated cost for engine and parts 7985

HULL AND POLE PURCHASE ALONG WITH HANDLEBARS THROTTLE CABLE ARE ALREADY PURCHASED FOR 7559 DOLLARS


REGISTRATION IN AZ TBD


AFTER THOUGHT, NEED A 50 DOLLAR SHAFT ALIGNMENT TOOL.



let me know what you guys think so far. am i on the right track? am i missing anything? thanks!
IMHO, X2 on everything in Roseand's post. Speedysprocket , top notch work. Hit JetManiac up for the Push pump shoe, that's where I got mine. As far as 60 for a Rule bilge, I'm using a knock off off of Amazon, same exact injection molded pump, I think the brand I got was Seaflo, about 15, they're all probably from the same factory.
 
Location
West MI
anyone can ignore my opinion, or disagree, but I’ll say this:

- b pipes are more like 1200 now, I think. Riva racing is easy to buy those from. Easier than factory pipe direct. Call riva and get in the wait list cuz they are not often in stock
- for the money you are spending on engine work and the girdled head, consider instead buying a 718 motor from JM, which includes a girdled head. The $1kish in add ons, plus what you could sell your donor motor for, puts you right in the ballpark of a fresh JM motor. https://www.x-h2o.com/threads/jetma...new-used-yamaha-and-custom-build-parts.85372/
- adjustable waterbox sounds prone to failure. Hit up @joeschuit and see if he’ll sell you one.
- if your wave raider midshaft housing and couplers are in good condition, send it to JM for rebuild to save vs buying another.
- a lot of people use 61x(cyl)/62t(cases) engines. Indeed, the B pipe manis are 61x friendly and have to get modified to work with other cylinders (by Factory pipe or you or whoever). 62t/62t motors are out there, and perhaps that’s what your donor is. Sell it and get JM 718 62x/62t, imo.
- delicious color choice!
- blowsion sucks
 
anyone can ignore my opinion, or disagree, but I’ll say this:

- b pipes are more like 1200 now, I think. Riva racing is easy to buy those from. Easier than factory pipe direct. Call riva and get in the wait list cuz they are not often in stock
- for the money you are spending on engine work and the girdled head, consider instead buying a 718 motor from JM, which includes a girdled head. The $1kish in add ons, plus what you could sell your donor motor for, puts you right in the ballpark of a fresh JM motor. https://www.x-h2o.com/threads/jetma...new-used-yamaha-and-custom-build-parts.85372/
- adjustable waterbox sounds prone to failure. Hit up @joeschuit and see if he’ll sell you one.
- if your wave raider midshaft housing and couplers are in good condition, send it to JM for rebuild to save vs buying another.
- a lot of people use 61x(cyl)/62t(cases) engines. Indeed, the B pipe manis are 61x friendly and have to get modified to work with other cylinders (by Factory pipe or you or whoever). 62t/62t motors are out there, and perhaps that’s what your donor is. Sell it and get JM 718 62x/62t, imo.
- delicious color choice!
- blowsion sucks
My god that a pretty sweet deal. That might be the route i go. That basically is a brand new engine exactly how i would set it up. It looks like JM is really the route for getting all this done. I imagine if i keep the flywheel and stator i could use my 61x electronics also.
 
Yeah dude, 100% you should keep your electronics and re-use anything you have to save money. Plus, keep your eyes out in the parts for sale thread on here, Lots of new and used parts for sale that will save you tons. I have some brand new throttle cables and parts that would work with your build. But honestly, cut cost any way possible and just rebuild whatever you have with quality parts. If you need something, just ask! Lots of us have spare parts we would be willing to let go of for good deals :cool:
 
anyone can ignore my opinion, or disagree, but I’ll say this:

- b pipes are more like 1200 now, I think. Riva racing is easy to buy those from. Easier than factory pipe direct. Call riva and get in the wait list cuz they are not often in stock
- for the money you are spending on engine work and the girdled head, consider instead buying a 718 motor from JM, which includes a girdled head. The $1kish in add ons, plus what you could sell your donor motor for, puts you right in the ballpark of a fresh JM motor. https://www.x-h2o.com/threads/jetma...new-used-yamaha-and-custom-build-parts.85372/
- adjustable waterbox sounds prone to failure. Hit up @joeschuit and see if he’ll sell you one.
- if your wave raider midshaft housing and couplers are in good condition, send it to JM for rebuild to save vs buying another.
- a lot of people use 61x(cyl)/62t(cases) engines. Indeed, the B pipe manis are 61x friendly and have to get modified to work with other cylinders (by Factory pipe or you or whoever). 62t/62t motors are out there, and perhaps that’s what your donor is. Sell it and get JM 718 62x/62t, imo.
- delicious color choice!
- blowsion sucks
X2 on the JetManiac motor, excellent advice.
 
Location
West MI
Apparently its adjustable water flow. Idk it seemed like a decent idea, but i suppose now that its been said i can see where getting salt water and an adjustable orifice might not be the best.
B pipe has a small water inlet at “stinger” end (the end that connects to waterbox), and people commonly restrict/modulate water flow in there, leaving the waterbox to just be a muffler type apparatus without adjustment. Oh, and avoid blowsion. Did I say that already?? Sorry.
 
I like the 62t cylinder personally, that's what I run. Its a thicker, stronger casting less prone to cracking, and can be bored out more than the 61x cylinder. The only advantage to the 61x cylinder is slightly lower exhaust port timing I believe the x port is 1mm or so lower. That will affect the power curve by 1000 or so rpm. The t cylinder will make more power and with proper porting and pump setup, will make very similar bottom end power. It will be slightly softer off the bottom, but you'll feel the power difference by the midrange. I have a lpw 735 engine with dual a/m 44s, also recommended over stock 38s. The 38s will be a little snappier off idle but fall flat, the 44s never quit pulling.
 
I like the 62t cylinder personally, that's what I run. Its a thicker, stronger casting less prone to cracking, and can be bored out more than the 61x cylinder. The only advantage to the 61x cylinder is slightly lower exhaust port timing I believe the x port is 1mm or so lower. That will affect the power curve by 1000 or so rpm. The t cylinder will make more power and with proper porting and pump setup, will make very similar bottom end power. It will be slightly softer off the bottom, but you'll feel the power difference by the midrange. I have a lpw 735 engine with dual a/m 44s, also recommended over stock 38s. The 38s will be a little snappier off idle but fall flat, the 44s never quit pulling.
Right. I see this info come up alot as far as cylinders are concerned but i think most everyone would agree that with the correctly modified 62t case its the superior case due to bettter volume overall, maybe thats not the case though. I image that thier is a benefit to a point as someone much smarter than myself could probably crunch numbers and say where each case could have its benefits in certain situations. Im torn between the better made cylinder vs the better port timing. It also requires no modifications to any manifolds or cylinders to slap a bpipe on a 61x cylinder, so with that being said i think at this point im gonna try and go with jetmaniacs 62t port package that comes with the 61x cylinders. Everyone seems to have nothing but nice things to say about his quality and workmanship and for the price of a complete rebuild and the port and polish work 3rd party id be looking at around the same price anyway.
 
Location
dfw
Taller ports make finding decent response more difficult. Most riders go blank when it comes to pump load tuning. Thats the main reason lower port cylinders are popular.
 
Taller ports make finding decent response more difficult. Most riders go blank when it comes to pump load tuning. Thats the main reason lower port cylinders are popular.
I know virtually nothing when it comes to pump tuning but i imagine its gonna be something i learn along the way. Imagine you probably tune a pump to the engine and not the other way around so thats really my priority rn. One of the other saving graces is im buying a jm 718 motor so i imagine there will be people with similar setups like mine that can hopefully take alot of the guessing out of it.
 

be_lain

Currently sending it
Location
Oregon
One thing I didn’t see on your list is a midshaft spacer. Aftermarket hulls (tigercraft at least) need the spacer for the mid shaft to seal properly against the bulkhead. I forgot this on my SV1 build…

Also don’t forget about misc hardware, hull hooks, other little stuff. This stuff all adds up. I recommend using GOOD quality used or new wherever you can. Better to not cheap out on building a ski that needs to be reliable in the surf when you really need it! Wire wheel every used bolt and grease every thread before it goes in to save yourself a headache later on.

I think I was about $11k all in on my build, and I did the motor work myself (same setup you describe). So you might be closer to the $12k mark. Make a spreadsheet! I can share my build sheet if you’d like.
 
One thing I didn’t see on your list is a midshaft spacer. Aftermarket hulls (tigercraft at least) need the spacer for the mid shaft to seal properly against the bulkhead. I forgot this on my SV1 build…

Also don’t forget about misc hardware, hull hooks, other little stuff. This stuff all adds up. I recommend using GOOD quality used or new wherever you can. Better to not cheap out on building a ski that needs to be reliable in the surf when you really need it! Wire wheel every used bolt and grease every thread before it goes in to save yourself a headache later on.

I think I was about $11k all in on my build, and I did the motor work myself (same setup you describe). So you might be closer to the $12k mark. Make a spreadsheet! I can share my build sheet if you’d like.
Absolutely. That would be cool to see. I havint had time to sit down and revise all the nonesense i originally posted so it would be nice to get a decent idea as to someone who went through it all already. Im a mechanic but not a porting master so with that said i believe especially since im not doing any port work myself and what it would cost to get a done up engine would be about the same as sending a core into JM and just getting a new setup that way.
 

be_lain

Currently sending it
Location
Oregon
Absolutely. That would be cool to see. I havint had time to sit down and revise all the nonesense i originally posted so it would be nice to get a decent idea as to someone who went through it all already. Im a mechanic but not a porting master so with that said i believe especially since im not doing any port work myself and what it would cost to get a done up engine would be about the same as sending a core into JM and just getting a new setup that way.

Yeah send me a pm with your email I’ll send it to you. I would say skip doing porting on your own and buy a kit. I really like the JM/Blue ported 61x top end kit. I did mine at a 718 (+1mm) and it has killer low end. Super reliable too, I have beat on it and it has held up. I have built a couple motors for my buddies with the same cylinder kit and they all love it.
 
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