The TRUTH about SJ drypipes

YAMA CAT

Catnip Junkie!
Location
B'ham, AL
My husband runs type 4 on his boats and I run a Speedwerx Race on my Ski
They are an excellent all purpose pipe for us.
General Observation and comments on our Dry-pipes:
We change out our couplers every season.
Couplers on the Speedwerx seem to last longer because the way the chamber and manifold mate up. Less wear from vibration causing them to crack.
Speedwerx seems a little be easier to reinstall too.
Get rid of that bulking E-box and Dry Pipes are infinitely easier to reinstall:fing02: (just learned that when I got Total Loss for X-mas)
 

Crab

thanks darin...noswad!
Location
Seattle
My husband runs type 4 on his boats and I run a Speedwerx Race on my Ski
They are an excellent all purpose pipe for us.
General Observation and comments on our Dry-pipes:
We change out our couplers every season.
Couplers on the Speedwerx seem to last longer because the way the chamber and manifold mate up. Less wear from vibration causing them to crack.
Speedwerx seems a little be easier to reinstall too.
Get rid of that bulking E-box and Dry Pipes are infinitely easier to reinstall:fing02: (just learned that when I got Total Loss for X-mas)
gasgas really likes the one you sold him. FYI
 

DaUpJetSkier

I like square
Location
Marquette, MI
I just like dry pipes because when you open the hood and show someone they freak out from the size of the chamber. I have a type4 or riva dry and I like it, it rips mid range but my tuning mat still be a lil off for low end grunt im also running a stock head on a ported 61x.
 
Location
FL
Anybody want to explain the differences in these pipes? Is the Riva freeride pipe equivalent to any of the factory pipes or is different all together?
 
I don't know about the compression issue either. I had a Speedwerx race pipe on my SJ running about 200# of compression. I didn't hold it WOT for long, just a few seconds. And then I traded it out for a Speedewerx Freestyle pipe and kept the same compression. According to Speedwerx the freestyle pipe is tuned to run 300 less RPM's. I held that thing WOT for days and it didn't hurt anything with a better bottom end response.

IMO the Dry pipes make a TON more power in a limited setup. And after I get a season of riding on my stroker I might switch back to a dry setup to see how it performs on a larger motor...
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Anybody want to explain the differences in these pipes? Is the Riva freeride pipe equivalent to any of the factory pipes or is different all together?

type 4 and riva freeride are the same pipe just diff color

actually I think there is some differences, with the Riva Freeride you will find that most will actually install easier, you dont have to grind the hood flange area for clearance like you have to on some of the FPP Type 4's, this may just be from the pipes being out of tolerance on the construction. Guess you would need to measure the volume of the chambers to really see.
 
I can speak to reliability I have been running the same coupler in the surf for two years and no problems to date.
The ski hits hard and smooth all the way through the RPM range, MATT E, Crab, Gasgas, and Suva can speak to this.

My set up.
Stoke Bore 701
ADA Head 35cc domes 185-190 psi
FFP Type 4
MSD Enhacer
Carbon Tech reads.
Some porting done. (Not sure from how but only on the exhaust side)
Stock dual 38’s with factory flame arresters.
Skat swirl 12-18 3mm cut back
Blowsion Freestyly cone.
 

Watty

Random Performance
Location
Australia
The only disadvantage I think to running a dry pipe is the fact that you have to pull the pipe to pull the head.

I'm running a type 9 and I have more off idle hit and bottom end than I could ever get with a b-limited. I do, however run a total loss, and also have my cylinders ported specifically for this pipe. It screams up top, and jumps out of the hole HARD.

I've never run water injection on the type 9, but I would imagine it would help even more. The only reason I don't run the water injection is due to the fact that it requires a bit more maintenance to keep it working properly.

If you set up a dry pipe properly, and have the right porting and timing, you'll always get more bottom end than a b-pipe with just a 'freestyle' port job. In saying that, a b-pipe with the right porting and timing curve should be every bit as good.
 

ROTATION

Why must I build it??????
Location
South Africa
Compression on dry-piped needs to be lower as the dry-pipe charges the cylinder better than a wet-pipe.
Most dry-pipes were made for high rpm(shorter) so they will suffer on low-end, spacing the manifold will help the tuned length
 

yamanube

This Is The Way
Staff member
Location
Mandalor
I loved my dry pipe (FP Type 4) it hit hard all around, after restricting the stinger fitting it hit just as hard (if not harder) down low than any one of the Bpipe skis in our group and kept pulling (much harder) along the mid and top. Installing it takes a little work, after you do it a couple times its easy. I ran heavy duty couplers and the only reason I ever had so pull it apart was to pull my motor (same one, reinstalled lasted all season) I never had any problems...plus watching the panties drop when you open your hood is nice. Unfortunately I needed cash fast so I sold the dry and will be trying a B pipe this season just to see what all the hype is about.
 

IceRocket1286

Site Supporter
Location
Metro Detroit
I have used a , fpp limited b-pipe, speedwerx dry pipe and fpp type 4 on my 701 square that I have since sold. I liked the speedwerx the best, then type 4, then b pipe. However, the b pipe beat the snot out of the type 4 for reliability, I had nothing but problems with the type 4 as far as the mounts staying in place and the couplers tearing.
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
You want hit from a dry pipe then put some timing in it

I run a type 9 and love it
the power is awesome
 
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