Other total loss Battery

L

Lossingm

Location
Amherstburg, Ontario
i work for an atv race team that is sponsored by ballistic and from what they tell us they are running a new battery that has no trouble like the previous, i will see if i can get the info but from what they say there will be no cranking issues and i told them i run total loss and i have be assured that there battery can handle it without a doubt.
 
dcptr

dcptr

Location
Australia
You guys really need to know the limitations for litium batteries before using them with total loss.
Most will state that you cannot discharge them below 13 or 12v, depending if its an A123, lipo, round or square cells etc- they're all slightly different. You should be checking voltages after every 2-3 tanks to make sure they're not going below minimum voltages.
They cannot be overcharged above spec and you cannot leave them for days on end without charging them to full or storage capacity. You may want to encase them or modify to make them watertight too because not many are.
Yes they are 10 times the work, but its worth it in the end.
Dry/wet cells are for care-free amateurs, lithiums are for ocd crazy pedantic enthusiasts. I spend 30mins prepping my ski after every single ride, every day- call it ocd if you will, but mainentance is the key to longer lasting jetskis in the end ;)
 
Matt_E

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
dcptr said:
You guys really need to know the limitations for litium batteries before using them with total loss.
Most will state that you cannot discharge them below 13 or 12v, depending if its an A123, lipo, round or square cells etc- they're all slightly different. You should be checking voltages after every 2-3 tanks to make sure they're not going below minimum voltages.
They cannot be overcharged above spec and you cannot leave them for days on end without charging them to full or storage capacity. You may want to encase them or modify to make them watertight too because not many are.
Yes they are 10 times the work, but its worth it in the end.
Dry/wet cells are for care-free amateurs, lithiums are for ocd crazy pedantic enthusiasts. I spend 30mins prepping my ski after every single ride, every day- call it ocd if you will, but mainentance is the key to longer lasting jetskis in the end ;)
Click to expand...

Every single Ballistic I've had break did so only after sitting in my garage for a few days. Corroded cell-to-cell connections or an internally corroded balancing port aren't something you see.
 
Philip Clemmons

Philip Clemmons

Owner, P&P Performance
Location
Richmond, Va
chadman154 said:
Anti gravity does not have a warrenty with TL.
Click to expand...

I never said it did. The cells they use are tested to over 1000 cycles (although at a lower C rating). Lead acids are not designed to be continually discharged and recharged, and likely are not warrantied either under that use. Ballistics leak, thus causing a short and over discharging the cells to the point of no return (although they have other construction issues as well). The design of these LiFePo4 cells/batteries makes them the solution for total loss systems. They are designed to be discharged and recharged throughout their useful life, without any adverse effects. Lead acids are not (unless we are talking about deep cycle batteries, which are not available for powersports starting applications).

The bottom line is that the antigravities have solid construction, and the best cells money can buy. With proper charging and use, you won't have issues. I have 150 gallons on mine with no issues and phenomenal performance. Additionally, the linear discharge curve of the 4S A123 configuration yields about .75 to 1.0 Volts more to your system for the duration of its use. (Watt's law states P= VA, thus applying additional Voltage to the starter allows it to operate with less current draw) This additional Voltage yields better spark, faster starting, and less current flow through the starter and relay, thus improving cranking and reducing wear of these components.

Additionally, a 12 cell 4S3P configuration provides cranking power of 360 amps at a weight of around 2.5 lbs. Thats more power than a standard ETX-16, with a savings of about 15.5 lbs, and additional voltage available, and in a much smaller footprint. If you go to the 16 cell in a 4S4P configuration, you are up to 480 amps. The 20 cell 4S5P is 600 amps! These are the answer for those big CC, high compression engines with limited battery space. I'll never run anything else, even in my 701 b-pipe setup.

Most that have issues dont care/charge properly.
 
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chadman154

chadman154

#Itsonlymoney !!!!!
Location
Dirty south
Philip Clemmons said:
I never said it did. The cells they use are tested to over 1000 cycles (although at a lower C rating). Lead acids are not designed to be continually discharged and recharged, and likely are not warrantied either under that use. Ballistics leak, thus causing a short and over discharging the cells to the point of no return (although they have other construction issues as well). The design of these LiFePo4 cells/batteries makes them the solution for total loss systems. They are designed to be discharged and recharged throughout their useful life, without any adverse effects. Lead acids are not (unless we are talking about deep cycle batteries, which are not available for powersports starting applications).

The bottom line is that the antigravities have solid construction, and the best cells money can buy. With proper charging and use, you won't have issues. I have 150 gallons on mine with no issues and phenomenal performance. Additionally, the linear discharge curve of the 4S A123 configuration yields about .75 to 1.0 Volts more to your system for the duration of its use. (Watt's law states P= VA, thus applying additional Voltage to the starter allows it to operate with less current draw) This additional Voltage yields better spark, faster starting, and less current flow through the starter and relay, thus improving cranking and reducing wear of these components.

Additionally, a 12 cell 4S3P configuration provides cranking power of 360 amps at a weight of around 2.5 lbs. Thats more power than a standard ETX-16, with a savings of about 15.5 lbs, and additional voltage available, and in a much smaller footprint. If you go to the 16 cell in a 4S4P configuration, you are up to 480 amps. The 20 cell 4S5P is 600 amps! These are the answer for those big CC, high compression engines with limited battery space. I'll never run anything else, even in my 701 b-pipe setup.

Most that have issues dont care/charge properly.
Click to expand...

Ummm Yeah you did.....
Please refer to post #27.
You posted this in TOTAL LOSS BATTERY.
You recommended this battery for total loss.
 
Matt_E

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
chadman154 said:
Ummm Yeah you did.....
Please refer to post #27.
You posted this in TOTAL LOSS BATTERY.
You recommended this battery for total loss.
Click to expand...

A dealer recommending it for TL is the same as stating that battery is warrantied for use with TL? :confused:
 
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TheBuzzard

TheBuzzard

Location
the jetski grave yard
ever company that sells a product always has a loophole that justifies not honoring their warrantee. not pointing any fingers just being general. when you get asked by the warrantee dept, always know the correct answers to their questions. if they ask what you had the battery in, make sure you know what year make and model it was designed for. not a good idea to tell them it was in a total loss jetski that is constantly exposed to water, ran dead and recharged every day. thats just asking to fall into their loophole! if the product was worth a crap, none of this would matter
 
C

customride0105

Site Supporter
Location
sterling va
Lol lol lol 2k for a battery ur on crack ^^^^

399.99 for a batter plus 100 dollar charger.. some ones maken bank off these battteries.

Do u own one? How does it work? Any problems?
 
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D-Roc

D-Roc

I forgot!
Location
Dirty River Rider
TheBuzzard said:
i'm on my 3rd shorai 18ah but they keep sending me free new ones so i cant bitch too much. it did cut my day short once and kept my freak on the trailer for the polar bear ride.
Click to expand...

Try sealing the terminals with automotive goop. My first one got water in it from that area and killed it. The replacement is working great since I got it and kept the water out.
 
TheBuzzard

TheBuzzard

Location
the jetski grave yard
i dont dare tamper with the thing. if i goop it up, that will be a great reason for shorai to say, too bad, you voided the warantee! i think its already too late for my one week old battery. it throws a code when i use the shorai charger. oh well, in a month or two i'll be filling out the warrantee page and not knowing why my 1986 honda trx 250 wont start.
 
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