Other total loss Battery

Philip Clemmons

Philip Clemmons

Owner, P&P Performance
Location
Richmond, Va
Matt_E said:
Of course it'll work. The Ballistic charger is a ripoff. Any decent R/C balancing charger that can handle 2S & 3S batteries can handle your typical LiFePO battery. (Make sure it can do LiFePO and not just LiPO)
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Matt, it needs to be LiFe 4S capable. :)

Remember guys, you get what you pay for. Some of the budget chargers are exactly that...........cheap. They are less accurate and in some cases, not as friendly to your expensive battery. Lithium cells are VERY voltage sensitive, and with a cheap charger, your voltage tolerance is far less accurate and not as tightly regulated as with a quality charger. I'm working on a bulk purchase price for some very nice chargers, that will be in the $85 range for the best stuff out there.

Sent from my KFJWI using Tapatalk 2
 
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GIL

GIL

Power In The Hands Of Few
Location
Cullman AL
egbrig said:
I think it becomes apparent as to who knows what they are talking about and those who have an experience without any real knowledge or understanding of an issue. There is a commonality between dcptr and Phil, they both are/were into R/C applications where batteries were used to a high level. Both run such batteries now and because of their knowledge and experience they are able to run these new battery types and make technical judgments. I won't take advice from someone who can't explain the difference between parallel and serial in voltage or amperage. I know Phil, he knows these batteries and has used them for awhile now in R/C's and his awesome Dasa 1100 w/TL. I am learning in this area too and I have an electronic background. Its the same as those who run T/L in salt water and don't have issues vs. those who do. What's the difference? Just look at how they build and maintain their systems. Some don't get it and never will but some do. Ask the questions-- what worked, why? What failed, and why? Seen too many ignitions failures blamed on "it just died" only to learn the guy wired it backwards one time," but that's not why it died" or the connections are so poor and corroded, yet they don't understand how "dirty" connections raise the resistance and how that effects the system. I'm not saying anything here to slam anyone, I'm just suggesting that you read and see if you can pick out who knows the subject matter and answers with technical, and not attitude. P.S I too have OCD issues.
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Post of the year!!! C'mon guys, figure out who the smart guys and listen to what they have to say.
 
dcptr

dcptr

Location
Australia
I should also point out that running a lithium with TL is a better option because of the higher nominal voltage- max charge rates are up to 14.4-14.6v and run at a constant 13.6 - 13.8v opposed to mid 12's for dry cell. This extra voltage helps at cranking rpm 0-800rpm especially if your running a high advance from 0. Some may experience weak spark while cranking on a dry cell because the voltage reg can't keep up while being drained from the starter motor.
 
Philip Clemmons

Philip Clemmons

Owner, P&P Performance
Location
Richmond, Va
dcptr said:
I should also point out that running a lithium with TL is a better option because of the higher nominal voltage- max charge rates are up to 14.4-14.6v and run at a constant 13.6 - 13.8v opposed to mid 12's for dry cell. This extra voltage helps at cranking rpm 0-800rpm especially if your running a high advance from 0. Some may experience weak spark while cranking on a dry cell because the voltage reg can't keep up while being drained from the starter motor.
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LiFe cells peak at 3.6-3.7, but drop immediately to 3.2-3.3 as soon as the charger cuts off. They hold this voltage right up until they are almost completely dead and "fall off the cliff".

This means a consistent 13.3-13.4 volts throughout the usable charge.

I agree with your comments, just noting that the voltage is lower than the peak voltage you mentioned. I mentioned the same items you did in an earlier post. It has made a huge difference in the starting of my 10 mil 1100, and greatly helped with starter and starter relay life :)
 
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D-Roc

D-Roc

I forgot!
Location
Dirty River Rider
All this talk about fancy chargers but every vehicle that takes a battery does not have a digital charger to balance these cells. What's up with that. How do they last in these conditions? Most of these batteries are not to be used with total loss so I see a contradiction in all this talk of battery maint./ charging.
Me, I got a shoria 2 +years ago despite the taboo, and simply trickle charge it after a ride and its been sealed with automotive goop to keep water out. I clamped down the cables so they don t vibrate on the terminals. My starter motor is up to par and so are my cables. Am I the only one with a working shoria? Lol.

Waz up Gil. How is life going? My down south bro.
 
D-Roc

D-Roc

I forgot!
Location
Dirty River Rider
Okay so I went and checked on my shoria battery again. It's been hooked up in my hull since oct. I plugged in the tether and it turned over about 5-6 times and then click click. I took my foot out of my mouth and then pulled my plugs and turned the motor over by the couplers. Tried the starter again and click click. I the held the start button for 5 seconds while feeling the relay and it got warm. I checked voltage and its at 13.2 and when I hit the start it drops to 6 v. I yanked the "up to par" starter motor and opened it up.
Eww, crusty. That will kill any battery in short time. So I cleaned it up and put it back together and it's working. It will crank good for about 5 seconds and then it starts to slow down. My guess is it's heating up inside after some hard cranking, its pretty much shot. I am going to get another starter motor I suppose before spring.

So I am thinking that a stock ignition has a charge rate of around 1.2 amps but I can't remember for sure. Most motorcycles and atvs are about the same? this is what these batteries where designed to be used in. They are not like a automotive alternator that can fast charge a dead battery at 90-120 amps. Basically I trickle charge my shoria after each use at about the same rate that the stock ignition would. I am not sure if a stock ignition can overcharge a battery or not. This is some more food for thought or discussion. Most of these warranties seem to be valid and I had no problems getting my replacement battery. I would not be on the fence about trying one, especially if your starting system is good and not crusty like mine appeared to be. I thought that the starter I put in it would have lasted longer but water is a bitch and ruins everything.
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Matt_E

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Whatever starter you're using next, put a little bead of 1211 over each seal. I started doing that after destroying a new OEM one after one season. That hurt.
 
D-Roc

D-Roc

I forgot!
Location
Dirty River Rider
Word. I just auto gooped this pos to keep the water out. I had to soak it in clr just to get the arbature out of the bearings. I was surprised to see it crank my motor as well as it is. I had an oem starter from 1995 SN that lasted 15 years and so I bought an oem starter from Yamaha thinking the same quality. Daytona dickered that thing up. Salt, water, brush dust and winter time storage really kill starters. Lol. It just money. ;)
 
Philip Clemmons

Philip Clemmons

Owner, P&P Performance
Location
Richmond, Va
D-Roc said:
So I am thinking that a stock ignition has a charge rate of around 1.2 amps but I can't remember for sure. Most motorcycles and atvs are about the same? this is what these batteries where designed to be used in. They are not like a automotive alternator that can fast charge a dead battery at 90-120 amps. Basically I trickle charge my shoria after each use at about the same rate that the stock ignition would. I am not sure if a stock ignition can overcharge a battery or not. This is some more food for thought or discussion. Most of these warranties seem to be valid and I had no problems getting my replacement battery. I would not be on the fence about trying one, especially if your starting system is good and not crusty like mine appeared to be.
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Good info. The charge rate won't be an issue. As long as voltage does not exceed 14.4 Volts, you'll be ok with these batteries. I'll have to check my manual, but it's unlikely a stock charging system will exceed 14 volts. The weight savings and extra voltage/cranking power is great for any application, but they really shine in total loss applications where batteries are continually discharged and recharged.
 
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