Using the outside hole on a turnplate

I was hoping someone who has installed a quick steer system could give me some help.

I installed a UMI steering system and want to use the outside hole for the fastest steering ratio.

I turned the stop in the handlepole sideways. When I turn left it hits the stop. When I turn right although it doesn't hyper-extend the cable, it hits the limit of turning when the plastic nozzle hits the aluminum reduction nozzle. This is probably not good since it would still strain the cable when slamming it to full lock/turn instead of just bumping up against the stop.

If I adjust the cable to get it so it travels the same to each side I'm afraid that when the bars are straight, the nozzle won't be straight and it will turn even thought the bars are set to go straight.

What's the trick to get it adjusted right?
Should I instead use the next slowest hole, and modify the turn nozzle?
If I do use the outside hole and grind down the stock chin pad to clear the pole will I break the chin pad doing hood tricks?

Thanks for any and all input.

Details: 2002 SJ, Stock pole/chin pad, UMI plate, 0 degree UMI freestyle bars.
 

wydopen

onthepipe
you need to move the hole on the nozzel further in( twards the left so you will need to grind a flat spot so the steering ball sits flat) and grind the nozzel to keep it from hitting the reduction nozzel..you will neeed to grind more on the cable side

you will also need to grind the chinpad as well
 
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SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
Modify the turn nozzle. You went to the outer hole plus turned the stop sideways, that gives a ton of cable throw, more than the nozzle can handle.

Or, just put the stop back to normal and see if that's enough steering for you.

FWIW, I have a Blowsion turnplate, cable in the outer hole on the turnplate, stop turned to normal (less throw), and moved the cable *in* on the nozzle to get more turning with less steering input. That gives more throw with less bar turning.
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
I was hoping someone who has installed a quick steer system could give me some help.

I installed a UMI steering system and want to use the outside hole for the fastest steering ratio.

I turned the stop in the handlepole sideways. When I turn left it hits the stop. When I turn right although it doesn't hyper-extend the cable, it hits the limit of turning when the plastic nozzle hits the aluminum reduction nozzle. This is probably not good since it would still strain the cable when slamming it to full lock/turn instead of just bumping up against the stop.

If I adjust the cable to get it so it travels the same to each side I'm afraid that when the bars are straight, the nozzle won't be straight and it will turn even thought the bars are set to go straight.

What's the trick to get it adjusted right?
Should I instead use the next slowest hole, and modify the turn nozzle?
If I do use the outside hole and grind down the stock chin pad to clear the pole will I break the chin pad doing hood tricks?

Thanks for any and all input.

Details: 2002 SJ, Stock pole/chin pad, UMI plate, 0 degree UMI freestyle bars.

What you described I went through exactly....

It is a fine adjustment of a happy medium...

I found I was only able to use the middle hole....

Good Luck!
 

wydopen

onthepipe
your going to want as much throw as possible..the way i described gives you that....also when you redrill the hole on the nozzel try to keep it as close to the same plane as possible as the old hole so it dosnt mess too much with the steering adjustment
 
"grind the nozzel to keep it from hitting the reduction nozzel"
That's a good idea.

When I turned the stop it resulted in less throw than the way is was set up stock. The long side of the stop was parrelel to the ski when stock and I turned it perpendicular to limit the throw.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I don't know why I didn't think to grind the nozzle. It's such a simple solution, and allows the nozzle to turn farther which can only help on tricks.
 

wydopen

onthepipe
Thanks for the replies.

I don't know why I didn't think to grind the nozzle. It's such a simple solution, and allows the nozzle to turn farther which can only help on tricks.

yea once you ride with quick steer you cant go back...my buddy wouldnt listen to me for a while about it and once he modded it his riding got twice as good
 

wydopen

onthepipe
oh and when u grind just take a little at a time and keep mocking it up....make sure your cable is adjusted right up top without being attached to the nozzle first to make sure you get lock to lock before you see how much you need to grind
 

tomski

X
Location
LHC
Don't grind the stock chinpad. The tab will eventually fail. Make a small aluminum bracket to move the mounting point outward.

I've seen a few factory mechanics do this.
 

wydopen

onthepipe
:bigok:
Don't grind the stock chinpad. The tab will eventually fail. Make a small aluminum bracket to move the mounting point outward.

I've seen a few factory mechanics do this.

toms right...my buddy ej showed me a cool mod..he ground the stock mounting tab and then wrapped it in thin alum sheeting and rivited it in place..worked good...but yes they wont last forever but you can strengthen it with jb weld or something..an aftermarket chinpad is really the way to go

so pretty and light, no grinding required
004.jpg
 
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