Blaster Waveblaster 2 - Listen to engine and what to look for?

Carrera911 · Mar 1, 2020

Just read back through your post and saw it had 107psi of compression. Those are really low numbers, stock should be around 150, maybe more. I haven't had a ski motor that low, but dirtbikes usually have a hard time starting once they hit 90-100. Not to scare you, its fine to keep running it, but just know it will need a top end rebuild before long if that gauge is correct. Make sure you test with the throttle wide open and a good battery charge so it cranks over strong.

On the nozzle, clean it up then rough it up so the paint will stick using some ~180 grit sandpaper or a red scotch brite pad. Then just spray paint it. All the work you're doing on this ski to make it nice, you may as well do that. Probably 30 minutes time to do that.

Here is the link to his pump parts section and entire store. All the parts he has for sale are listed on this forum under parts for sale.

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?thre...new-used-yamaha-and-custom-build-parts.85372/

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?thre...ar-rings-pump-shoe-intake-grate-parts.142220/

keith t · Mar 1, 2020

Benn said:
Good advice, I think you’re right - Let me check and see his prices. Eng work here isn’t too expensive but I’ll know how it compares when I hear back from him.

The reduction nozzle is still fine, just needs to be cleaner luckily.

Parts won’t be available here anyway, I’d have to import.

Will update when I decide and get the info on cost.

Any online place for the housing?

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Jet maniac will have you covered for all the parts you will need, I am in U.K. and order from him regularly - service is always brilliant

Benn · Mar 2, 2020

Carrera911 said:
Just read back through your post and saw it had 107psi of compression. Those are really low numbers, stock should be around 150, maybe more. I haven't had a ski motor that low, but dirtbikes usually have a hard time starting once they hit 90-100. Not to scare you, its fine to keep running it, but just know it will need a top end rebuild before long if that gauge is correct. Make sure you test with the throttle wide open and a good battery charge so it cranks over strong.

On the nozzle, clean it up then rough it up so the paint will stick using some ~180 grit sandpaper or a red scotch brite pad. Then just spray paint it. All the work you're doing on this ski to make it nice, you may as well do that. Probably 30 minutes time to do that.

Here is the link to his pump parts section and entire store. All the parts he has for sale are listed on this forum under parts for sale.

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?thre...new-used-yamaha-and-custom-build-parts.85372/

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?thre...ar-rings-pump-shoe-intake-grate-parts.142220/

I didn’t REALLY crank the engine that hard - So I will go and check again a bit later as you said. I’m assuming both plugs need to be out when doing this on either piston? The engine won’t fire so why do I need the throttle wide open? Didn’t do that...

What I’ll do is use the ski while it’s still summer here and then look at doing topend over the winter - Will report back on exact number on compression, I just very roughly did it. Does the engine have to come out for a top-end rebuild?

On the housings - So you’re saying it would be ok to have them powdercoated even though they would still have some moisture trapped that would result in some corrosion under the paint?

If that’s fine then I will just have everything powdercoated.

The problem is the paint guy here says I should not be powdercoated over the alu due to what I eluded to, but I have the feeling I should. Would the damage from rust under the paint be worse than just having everything bead blasted and kept bare?

Does anyone have a pic of what the external pumps colour should be? Is the reduction nozzle a different colour to the housings?

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Benn · Mar 2, 2020

keith t said:
Jet maniac will have you covered for all the parts you will need, I am in U.K. and order from him regularly - service is always brilliant

I’ve PM’d him - Waiting to hear back.

Anything else I should look at getting while I’m at it?

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mikidymac · Mar 2, 2020

To check compression you need a good charged battery.
You can leave 1 plug in if you want. Throttle needs to be held wide open to get the most air in the cylinders to compress.

Benn · Mar 2, 2020

mikidymac said:
To check compression you need a good charged battery.
You can leave 1 plug in if you want. Throttle needs to be held wide open to get the most air in the cylinders to compress.

Will be sure to do that - thanks

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