Surfriding Whitca's 2015 Krash Predator build

Sweet. What Bushing/pole bolt combo you using with the Krash bracket?
Yamaha bushings, stock RN pole bolt. Fit is very snug. I pulled the bracket to anti-seize all the bolts and bolted on the bottom pole piece w/ the spring. I loosened one ear of the bracket to fit the pole in and then tightened down the pole bolt before tightening up the ear again. Bracket fits the pole perfect and is drilled for the RRP spring tensioner (running with a new OEM spring). It all went together really smooth (not my experience with other RRP poles). Still had to horse the breather tubes to fit but it's in now.
 
Pole bolts on the predators are a little tricky, I am running a lightweight RRP bolt, had to shorten it about 1/4inch and run it with no washers to fit. Similar fitment with cold fusion bolt, never tried an Oem but I think you still need to shorten them
 
Some of the little revisions with this hull are really nice. Prior to receiving my hull, I had already picked up a u-bolt for a front bow eye as well as had a plan for trying to prevent the scupper from coming out as some had reported. These trick billet bow eyes (pictured) and the additional screws on the scupper flange are the little details that set these apart.

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Pump is painted and test fitted however some clearancing will be needed with the ride plate hitting the pump so once it's ground down, it will need another shot of paint. The cold fusion driveline tool is money well spent... makes alignment so easy. I will need to clearance some pump holes about 1/16" to get it to slide over. I pulled the tubbies last night and added a small bead of silicone around the edges and bolt holes.

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Other tasks knocked off the list last night include installing new bendix, new carb speed plate for dasa intake mani, disassembled pump/midshaft for new shafts, glued down bilge cup, removed all fasteners from hull and reinstalled w/ antiseize and/or loctite, and drilled out brass water fittings.
 
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Running out of loose ends to tie up while awaiting new driveshaft/midshaft. Engine can go in one last time to get locations marked and drilled for bypass fittings, bilge fitting and switch, and ebox mounts on ffh. Then onto hood seal and drilling for hood hooks and hood strap.


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I'm a bpipe man for life. Tried and true.

I really didn't have anything against the PFP but I'm with you, it will be nice to go back to a low maintenance b pipe. The jetworks 5 mil was a little strong off the bottom w/ the PFP for my liking in the surf, I think this will be perfect once tuned.

I agree with the need for 5 gallons, but i also love my PFP/limitedslip tank combo.

I'm so stoked to get more than the 30 min ride time I was getting with the kart tank. Plus there's some spots I haven't been able to ride on the coast due to the distance to the ride zone without toting extra fuel.
 
Ran into a few snags. New driveshaft needed to have the leading bearing shoulder cut back about 3/16". I'm not sure if the old shaft I had in the pump is different but the machined spacer portion of the shaft between the pump bearings was shorter on the old shaft vs. the new. This prevented me from being able to completely press the shaft into the pump and front bearing and wouldn't allow the shoulder the impeller stops against through the front seal. An hour on the lathe and it was good to go (unfortunately no pics of this). Drilled and installed bypass fittings, bilge fitting, OCD Solutions sealed toggle, and ratchet for hood strap.

Pump went in pretty effortlessly. It did take 1 thin shim in the rear corner to get the driveshaft centered in the cold fusion tool and looks like I'll need 1 shim on the midshaft to get it squared up.

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The Worx 242 intake grate is going to take a little massaging to fit in the front and get the bolt holes lined up.
 
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