Mark44
Katie's Boss
- Location
- 100% one place
carbs may be clean but could still be plugged. Sounds like a fuel issue to me.
Blaster Won't Start - About To Give Up - Super Frustrated.
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- Start date
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
But can you suck juice thru the jet circuits????? These holes are the size of a human hair or a bit bigger..........They're clean... I'm sure of it. I've had them apart, and cleaned probably 5 times now. I'd eat off the things.
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
OP- What suggestions have you tried so far?
DAG
Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
take a photo or video and upload
Mark44
Katie's Boss
- Location
- 100% one place
bing bing bing we have a winner IMO
retroicon
XX-xx-XX-xx-XX
Going to be working on it over the weekend. Got busy with work stuff these past few days.
First order of business is to take both carbs apart, and be 100000% sure fuel is flowing through all the passages properly. I'm also going to confirm pop-off just to make sure they're both registering close to each other. Once I'm 100% sure that the carbs are flowing properly, I'll move on to electronics.
I'm still curious what this "switched white wires" thing is. I thought both of the white wires in the electrical system were the same, and it didn't matter which one went to which location based on the diagram posted earlier in this thread. If they had to go to specific locations, wouldn't they be different colors?
First order of business is to take both carbs apart, and be 100000% sure fuel is flowing through all the passages properly. I'm also going to confirm pop-off just to make sure they're both registering close to each other. Once I'm 100% sure that the carbs are flowing properly, I'll move on to electronics.
I'm still curious what this "switched white wires" thing is. I thought both of the white wires in the electrical system were the same, and it didn't matter which one went to which location based on the diagram posted earlier in this thread. If they had to go to specific locations, wouldn't they be different colors?
msd enhancer has both wires as whites-the same color
where they plug in is dictated by the male or female plug end
oem yamaha is 1 white and 1 white w/red (stator)
to wire a msd enhancer correctly
always plug in the start stop lanyard white wire 1st to the msd white
it will match up male-female
then plug in the stator white last
62t stators will need a jumper lead with 2 females
6r7 and 61x will directly plug in without the need for a jumper wire
where they plug in is dictated by the male or female plug end
oem yamaha is 1 white and 1 white w/red (stator)
to wire a msd enhancer correctly
always plug in the start stop lanyard white wire 1st to the msd white
it will match up male-female
then plug in the stator white last
62t stators will need a jumper lead with 2 females
6r7 and 61x will directly plug in without the need for a jumper wire
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
Ding Ding Ding...................... Dartman is correct.
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
Absolutely. One is from the start stop and completes the stop circuit to ground. The other is from the pulse coil and carries a pulsing signal from 16 to 150 volts depending on RPM.
They absolutely should be different colors and are on the OEM stuff but for some reason MSD has never seen the need to distinguish them apart with anything more than a different gender terminal. In all fairness, neither JSS or myself use a white wire with a red stripe on our stators either but that is because it's not a commonly available product. I actually tried to order some but it's hard to justify a run of 10,000 ft when you use 500ft/yr at the most.
I have been getting in the habit of marking the pulse wire with a red marker to avoid this.
They absolutely should be different colors and are on the OEM stuff but for some reason MSD has never seen the need to distinguish them apart with anything more than a different gender terminal. In all fairness, neither JSS or myself use a white wire with a red stripe on our stators either but that is because it's not a commonly available product. I actually tried to order some but it's hard to justify a run of 10,000 ft when you use 500ft/yr at the most.
I have been getting in the habit of marking the pulse wire with a red marker to avoid this.
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
I've done it before with an MSD and the ski wouldn't run. All I would get is a single spark when I let off the start button. My buddy just did it with a stock CDI so maybe that's the difference.?.?.? I will definitely be mocking it up on my test bench to see what it does.
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
Had that happen once also no spark until let off start button
ya never know. maybe it was dieseling off the primer..
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
Remove your primer all together. I had a bad primer that was flooding my motor at Daytona.
this is why I dont put the primer feed on the return, especially when you run a return restricter.
OP, have you rejetted the carb yet or are you still trying other options?
retroicon
XX-xx-XX-xx-XX
Alright, I'm back... here's where things are at.
The one time I had it on the water, it ran like hell, but it ran up to maybe 30-35mph so I really don't think it's an electrical issue with the white wires being in the wrong spots. So, nothing looked at on the electrical system as of yet.
I decided to just take the carbs apart, again, and just re-verify again, that everything is 100% clear in the carbs, and that everything was in the right spots. I know there have been a lot of people saying that 190 on the high speed jet is too high, and it may end up being too high, but nothing jetting wise has been changed. I just took it all apart, looked everything over very closely, checked all the passages, and made sure there were no blockages/pinholes/tears,etc.
Put the carbs back on, put a cloth in each carb throat, and checked for fuel on the butterflies. They were noticably wet, so there was fuel flowing.
I put the plug caps back on, pressed the start button, and it fired right up.
BUT... WAIT.
I got it started before, and it sounded good under no load, until I hit the water. That's where the problems were.
I didn't get a chance to get on the water yet, so I'm not sure, but it just doesn't sound quite the same as my super jet. I can't put my finger on what it is, but it just doesn't sound as powerful, and it should be. My Super Jet has a 701 bored 3 over, freeride porting by LPW, and a Factory mod pipe, stock waterbox.
The Blaster has a 4mm stroke, 1mm overbore, light race porting, factory blaster mod pipe, and stock waterbox. They should sound VERY similar, but something just doesn't sound powerful about the blaster under no load, sitting on the trailer.
It was 11pm when I got it all back together tonight, but I should be able to get it in the water in the next 24-48 hours. I'll report back for sure.
Honestly, based on the sound, I'm not feeling that confident, but who knows. It has been probably 7 years since I've really listened to a Blaster, so it could just be that the SJ sounds more brutal because the exhaust routing is so different, and the engine bay is so much smaller.
Also, and this just could be me being paranoid, but it sounded like there was a small "click" every 2-3 seconds coming from the carbs, AFTER the motor was off. So, I'd fire it for about 5-10 seconds (no water available to keep it cooling), rev a couple times, then turn it off. After I did that, I'm positive I heard something that sounded like there was a tap with the end of a pen on the inside of the carb throats. I don't know what that sound was, but it did happen every time I shut the thing down. This is TOTALLY new to me, never even heard of this happening, so this one has me baffled for sure.
The one time I had it on the water, it ran like hell, but it ran up to maybe 30-35mph so I really don't think it's an electrical issue with the white wires being in the wrong spots. So, nothing looked at on the electrical system as of yet.
I decided to just take the carbs apart, again, and just re-verify again, that everything is 100% clear in the carbs, and that everything was in the right spots. I know there have been a lot of people saying that 190 on the high speed jet is too high, and it may end up being too high, but nothing jetting wise has been changed. I just took it all apart, looked everything over very closely, checked all the passages, and made sure there were no blockages/pinholes/tears,etc.
Put the carbs back on, put a cloth in each carb throat, and checked for fuel on the butterflies. They were noticably wet, so there was fuel flowing.
I put the plug caps back on, pressed the start button, and it fired right up.
BUT... WAIT.
I got it started before, and it sounded good under no load, until I hit the water. That's where the problems were.
I didn't get a chance to get on the water yet, so I'm not sure, but it just doesn't sound quite the same as my super jet. I can't put my finger on what it is, but it just doesn't sound as powerful, and it should be. My Super Jet has a 701 bored 3 over, freeride porting by LPW, and a Factory mod pipe, stock waterbox.
The Blaster has a 4mm stroke, 1mm overbore, light race porting, factory blaster mod pipe, and stock waterbox. They should sound VERY similar, but something just doesn't sound powerful about the blaster under no load, sitting on the trailer.
It was 11pm when I got it all back together tonight, but I should be able to get it in the water in the next 24-48 hours. I'll report back for sure.
Honestly, based on the sound, I'm not feeling that confident, but who knows. It has been probably 7 years since I've really listened to a Blaster, so it could just be that the SJ sounds more brutal because the exhaust routing is so different, and the engine bay is so much smaller.
Also, and this just could be me being paranoid, but it sounded like there was a small "click" every 2-3 seconds coming from the carbs, AFTER the motor was off. So, I'd fire it for about 5-10 seconds (no water available to keep it cooling), rev a couple times, then turn it off. After I did that, I'm positive I heard something that sounded like there was a tap with the end of a pen on the inside of the carb throats. I don't know what that sound was, but it did happen every time I shut the thing down. This is TOTALLY new to me, never even heard of this happening, so this one has me baffled for sure.
Good so it runs. Glad to hear it.
I have a feeling it will bog badly once you hit the water, its choking through a lot of fuel to run. for instance your running double the jet size of others with reverse jetting. I know people say oh 190 is too big, but it actually is. It will fall flat on its face trying to get through that. a ported 760 will run great on a single 150 main. twin 190 mains will do a great job of washing the cylinder and preventing any seating of the rings, but it will never sieze.
might hydrolock though.
I have a feeling it will bog badly once you hit the water, its choking through a lot of fuel to run. for instance your running double the jet size of others with reverse jetting. I know people say oh 190 is too big, but it actually is. It will fall flat on its face trying to get through that. a ported 760 will run great on a single 150 main. twin 190 mains will do a great job of washing the cylinder and preventing any seating of the rings, but it will never sieze.
might hydrolock though.