wr3 build

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thudd3rski

Location
colorado
After getting myself a 650sx, i realized i could spend more time playing on the water if the wife and kid had something to ride.

Enter the winter project...1995 WR3 GP in all of its smurfy goodness



good shape, just a bit grimey



plans are to clean, prep, paint, graphics, turf, cover the seat, new controls, switch to premix, etc.
 
T

thudd3rski

Location
colorado
just catching up here...

cleaned up the engine and interior of the hull. 5 year old gas and lake water make for a wonderful aroma

replaced hardened hoses, fuel filter, plugs, added flush kit, replaced "classic" k&n filter, removed oiling/tank, replaced fuel sending unit (stuck/rotten rubber sections), replaced choke with primer

 
T

thudd3rski

Location
colorado
to address the color scheme (gotta love 90's powersports color schemes)

sanded and about ready for primer. removed and filled the holes for the vent covers









based on the shallow gouges to the port side just above the waterline under the suspiciously new graphics, and the extra set of holes under the gunwhale trim, i am guessing there was a "rubbing incident" at some point. fortunately no cracks or other issues that i can find. unfortunately to get it smooth i had to go down to the smc in a couple of areas. plan is to use totalboat 2 part epoxy primer and finish with their wetedge topcoat. through about rolling and tipping but this may be a good chance to try spraying
 
T

thudd3rski

Location
colorado
i havent jetted a 2 stroke since the 80s so i would appreciate anything you learn on fixing that midrange flop. this one ran great once i cleaned the system out and put in fresh gas but i am sure it is going to need a carb rebuild after sitting for 5 years
 
T

thudd3rski

Location
colorado
got a couple of things done on the wr3 project over the long weekend...

easy one first...tdr waterbox install. received the message from vintagejetski that tdr was going to do one last run of waterboxes and then they would be gone for good. seeing as this is about the only exhaust upgrade for a wr3...







next was to install the ada head from jetmania. girdled head is overkill for a stock motor (especially for compression here in co) but it was a good deal through and it did allow me to raise the compression to regain some of the loss due to co altitude.



gotta grind the exhaust bracket to clear the girdled head to finish the install and get the muffler back on (what do you mean nobody runs stock exhaust with this head?!?!), will take care of that this weekend. also pulled the cap off of the ebox and disconnected the head temp sensor, plan to install an inline water temp sensor at the head with a display
 
T

thudd3rski

Location
colorado
should title this how to spend a couple grand on a $1500 '95 wave runner so you end up with something still worth $1500 lol.

good thing i got the exhaust bracket figured out...since i am not going to use it anymore. went a different route and picked up a pro-tec pipe on ebay, story is that it came off of a 650 custom build by riva

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after a call to pro-tec, i added a rebuild kit for the pipe and a 62T manifold to the parts pile, along with a jet kit. with the carb kit from jetmaniac i should have everything i need. so the parts being used include an ada girdled head with the ada exhaust mount for an oem pipe, pro-tec pipe rev "who knows", and a pro-tec 62T exhaust manifold. also using the oem water box hose.

spent a fun-filled day of cussing and playing with different bolts and spacers, but succeeded in the end. not sure how you guys get these to fit in SJs or WBs....i have alot more room in this thing and it was still a matter of fractions of an inch of clearance to get the chamber in.

manifold and header went together and mounted up without issue using the 62T gasket and the 8-10mm spacers



only real issue i ran into (besides space and only having two hands) was the front mount. being an older rev, this pipe only has one mount in the front, i guess it was before they started using the two stacked holes for the front mount (additionally only has a single mount on the top for the head).



neither of the holes on the front flange of the exhaust manifold lined up. this pipe used a small triangular bracket for the front mount, and i couldnt use that as the spacing between the mount and the bracket was all screwed up and it wouldve been on top of the exhaust manifold flange. using the bracket as a template, drilled a new hole in the flange to line up with the mount



was able to achieve a 1/4" gap all the way around using a spacer on the front mount and no spacer on the top mount. top mount lined up with the center hole of the ada bracket



and complete....just need to trim the hose to the water box, which also lines up nicely



up next is the carb
 
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T

thudd3rski

Location
colorado
now that the pipe is in i need to finish up the connections...after a bit of research i came up with the following. appreciate any thoughts/feedback.



one area i am unsure on is the hose hookup. read that mounting it to the head is good as it backfushes the system, but pro-tec directions state to "t" the input/supply, which also makes sense since you are replacing the feed...suggestions? thanks
 
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T

thudd3rski

Location
colorado
cathing up...when it was too cold to rebuild the carb in the garage, i shifted some energy over to the trailer

the was...





wheels stripped for painting



frame sandblasted and powdercoated...ready to go back together with new parts...

 
T

thudd3rski

Location
colorado
finally got the umi steering (for a wave blaster) installed. took a little rearranging/relocating of parts to get everything to line up.

the cross brace and cable holder had to be spaced down to align with the groove in the steering stem (for the bracket). this also required slotting the holes for the brace and steering cable bracket a bit





even had to space down the holder for the hatch rod/prop so it didnt hit the cross brace



also had to spin the plate that holds the steering cable to the steering cable bracket. this pushed the cable back about an inch, which was required to be able to get the steering centered. in the end it all lined up well, but took alot of cable adjusting to get it centered and allow for full travel



on the top, had to drill new holes. the blaster uses the same number of holes and pattern, but they are the opposite pattern, meaning the steering stops end up 90 degrees out. filled in the stock steering stop since i was filling in the oem set of mounting holes. also had to add a hole for the throttle cable and wiring





 
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