X2 Hull mods

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
feel free to continue.:afro:

Apparently there is no need to finish it up ,the X-H20 jury has now reversed their decision and found the front nose mod to no longer be in vogue or cool,I am going out to rip mine off my ski as we speak,I suggest all you do the same ,you want to be cool don't you?:icon16:
 

Scorn800

Ride for life
Location
North NJ
I can come up with 500-600... I am getting ready to buy the 2200 sq ft house I live in.... so coming up with 8k for what I realy want just wont happen right now.:wavey:

House smouse:crying:
You need a lite weight hull:bananajump:









Just focken with you:wave:
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
feel free to continue.:afro:

I do want to lift a part from the mold and make sure I'm on the right track. I have a pretty decent working area and some left over materials atm. I'm just a bit lacking on tools atm. I have a line up on a compressor and will hopefully have it next week. I will be able to spray PVA then! :kabong:
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
I do want to lift a part from the mold and make sure I'm on the right track. I have a pretty decent working area and some left over materials atm. I'm just a bit lacking on tools atm. I have a line up on a compressor and will hopefully have it next week. I will be able to spray PVA then! :kabong:

pva is not finicky,brush it spray it on put it in a damn windex bottle it really dosen't care ,please insert next excuse here>>>>>___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
pva is not finicky,brush it spray it on put it in a damn windex bottle it really dosen't care ,please insert next excuse here>>>>>___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I never thought of spraying it though a windex bottle. I'd imagine that would work pretty well. It is pretty fluid stuff. I'll give it a shot.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
You can also find these pretty cheap at body shop supply houses if you ever have to spray and have no access to an air compressor ,I did several gelcoat jobs with these before I bought a compressor.
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Crab

thanks darin...noswad!
Location
Seattle
While we are on the topic of hull mods, I plan to deepen the rear chines on mine while the motor is out, after shortening the hull and cutting the rails back it lost some ability for the rear to stay planted in hard cornering. I didn't notice it until I ran some bouy's last season, and kept spinning out around the tite turns. Tubbies made the front hook nice but the rear was a tad too loose to really power thru the sharp corners, going for more of the sxr or 08 SJ style strakes.
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WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
While we are on the topic of hull mods, I plan to deepen the rear chines on mine while the motor is out, after shortening the hull and cutting the rails back it lost some ability for the rear to stay planted in hard cornering. I didn't notice it until I ran some bouy's last season, and kept spinning out around the tite turns. Tubbies made the front hook nice but the rear was a tad too loose to really power thru the sharp corners, going for more of the sxr or 08 SJ style strakes.
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That would be so easy to do with poured gelcoat if it wasn't a dang SMC hull.
 

Crab

thanks darin...noswad!
Location
Seattle
Hmmm, hadn't thought of pouring. I was thinking of using to pieces of split pvc or abs pipe the right diameter to create the right shape, then do one layer of glass for the base mold. Then perhaps use thickened cabosil to glue them down solid, any better idea? I didn't want to just start spreading it like bondo and try to grind/sand into shape, wanted to start out with something more uniform.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Hmmm, hadn't thought of pouring. I was thinking of using to pieces of split pvc or abs pipe the right diameter to create the right shape, then do one layer of glass for the base mold. Then perhaps use thickened cabosil to glue them down solid, any better idea? I didn't want to just start spreading it like bondo and try to grind/sand into shape, wanted to start out with something more uniform.

The PVC foam that I get from Farco plastics would be excellent for this,you could find a cove router bit with close to the correct shape and route out the shape then use a table saw to cut it into strips,epoxy and screw that into place then glass over it and fair it out with epoxy and microbaloons.:naughty:

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Crab

thanks darin...noswad!
Location
Seattle
Whatcha think about just shaping some 4 pound expanding foam, think I have some still.????:shocked:
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Need to get the rear hooked up....:Eyecrazy:

Wouldn't rear sponsons do that? It's just a rudder which is basically what you're making with your chines. If you make the rear sponsons so they bolt into the bond line, they could even be removeable.
 

tom21

havin fun
Location
clearwater FL
I was fockin with him. he knows.

Are you sure you want it on the bottom? maybe do that on the angle on the side/bottom since you will be cornering and leaned over. maybe that will still give you some of the loose back end on carving the surf but come into play while carving on the flat.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Whatcha think about just shaping some 4 pound expanding foam, think I have some still.????:shocked:

It will be a lot more work than what I am suggesting,this is the same material they use to make plastic moulding for houses out of,very strong,very durable,very lightweight,it makes an excellent core material and once it covered wwith fiberglass and epoxy it is as strong or stronger than SMC.Read the article below.

The following discussion came about by Russ King's musings over alternative boatbuilding materials. Since I've done a fair amount of fabrication with PVC Foam Board, I felt that this might be worthwhile to others who may have missed it on the bulletin board.

One modern material, that has received little or no attention for building a boat itself, is expanded PVC Foam Board. I use the stuff a lot for such items as tackle center casings and drawers, battery boxes, light weight doors and molding replacements that will either be painted or laminated. I usually use it in conjunction with polyethylene, (Seaboard, Starboard), exterior facings if the item isn't going to be painted. Also to be a replacement for plywood normally used for backing boards on such upholstered exterior items as bolsters, seats, benches, etc.

I just finished a 4 drawer tackle center for a small boat that is fully recessed into the console. The face molding, door and drawer faces are polyethylene, the rest PVC. I'll have that project up on the web within a week or so.

The cost for 4x8 sheets is comparable to marine ply, but when you back out the cost of epoxy encapsulation, it's less expensive by a third if you're not counting the cost of labor. Throw labor in and it's well under half the expense.

It's dissimilar to plywood in the respect of rigidity, (it's fairly limber by comparison), and it won't hold epoxy laminations as well as wood. But it is rot proof, UV resistant, easy to work with, non-toxic, stable, holds a fastener reasonably well, easily glued, (PVC cement), or hot air welded, water proof, highly paintable, and fairly easy to obtain through a variety of plastics dealers.

It takes well to a number of other adhesives, including, polyurethane, polysulfide, epoxy, contact cement, resorcinol, etc. Easy to fabricate using saw, drill, & power sanders. Faces are hermetically sealed and smooth, interior is somewhat course and on the spongy side. Cell structure is closed, will not absorb water. Can be heat and vacuum formed. Tortures easily, compound curves and shapes are no problem, but heat would be required.

If anybody wants to experiment with PVC Foam Board. and can't find a local source, call Mike at Sunray Plastics in Riviera Beach, FL - 561.844.7722. He'll ship, or drop ship, anywhere in North America. Be sure you tell him I gave you his phone number...

Thicknesses available range from 1/8" through several inches. Standard increments of 1/8". Virgin material is white. Reconstituted, which is denser, better machining, & lower cost is deck grey. Other PVC extrusions are common. Pipe, angle, & rod stock.

The specific brand name I use is: VersacelTM (Rigid PVC Foam Board)

For other sources, try HPG International, Inc. and check through their Distributor List...



Calculations show PVC Foam Board to be approx. 26% lighter than Plywood

For quick comparison:

PVC Foam Board:
1/1" (25.4 mm) = 3.2 lbs per sq ft (12.74 kg sq meter)

1/2" (12.7 mm) = 1.6 lbs per sq ft (6.37 kg sq meter)

3/8" (09.5 mm) = 1.2 lbs per sq ft (4.78 kg sq meter)

1/4" (06.4 mm) = 0.8 lbs per sq ft (3.19 kg sq meter)

1/8" (03.2 mm) = 0.4 lbs per sq ft (1.60 kg sq meter)
PLYWOOD:
1/1" (25.4 mm) = 4.4 lbs per sq ft (17.52 kg sq meter)

1/2" (12.7 mm) = 1.7 lbs per sq ft (8.77 kg sq meter)

3/8" (09.5 mm) = 3.2 lbs per sq ft (6.57 kg sq meter)

1/4" (06.4 mm) = 1.1 lbs per sq ft (4.38 kg sq meter)

1/8" (03.2 mm) = 0.6 lbs per sq ft (2.20 kg sq meter)


1 lb = 0.37 kg (3.2 lbs = 1.18 kg)
1 sq ft = 0.093 sq meter
10.76 sq ft = 1 sq meter


Based on 15" x 6 1/4" cantilevered run under 18.5 lbs of pressure.

sample PVC deflection = 3.50"

sample plywood deflection = 0.625"

deflection ratio pvc : ply = 5.6 : 1

Actually this deflection ratio is rather ambiguous, since the closer the end length is to the fulcrum, the more pressure needed to effect the same deflection distance, and vise versa. But this little test shows graphically the difference of flexibility between the two materials.

This section of the boatbuilding tips was hastily done and will undoubetly be expanded as dicussion and thoughts progress. Check back from time to time. Email me with any comments and ideas that you might have...
 
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